Recent Posts

[So unfortunately we have decided to cancel the whole event.]

G'day again gang,

No doubt you've all been watching the news about how well Victoria is dealing with the Corona Virus (NOT) and since we are now in 6 weeks of lockdown things are no longer looking very promising for our Eureka Nationals in October.

So unfortunately we have decided to cancel the whole event. 

Sorry about this but we really don't have much choice as you can well imagine unless someone comes up with an "instantaneous" cure between now and then.

PP.
for Life

Hello Everyone,

Looking to buy either a completed Purvis Eureka or in an uncompleted project state.  Preferably in NSW if possible, however, I am open to looking out of state.

If you have one for sale please contact me on my email; nicholascavasinni@gmail.com

Many thanks!

LINAKS

Been a while I know.
Pretty much finished Electrics - New loom.
Just a few wires to go onto the motor and of course run the cables up to the roof which isn't on yet.
So on that it was time to install my lifting arms and new Linak actuators.
I picked these lifters up at the last AGM and I big thanks goes out to LINAK for being an awesome sponsor.
These also came with the LINAK Electronic control system which includes soft start motor controllers and wireless remote.

Pics Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3UPQeZmATq6CxWYE7

In a previous post I mentioned using Gun Blue on my arms. Pic1 is the chemicals. This worked great.

I had to make lower supports for the lifters so a bit of 6mm steel welded onto some 13mm bolts did the trick. Pic 2
This has the advantage to allowing for easy height adjustment and the motor can still swivel as it moves up.

The lifting bolt on the front arms had been mashed Pic3. Note part of it is 3/16 threat and some is 5/16 thread. These had to go.

Pic 4 is a before and after of the new bolt. I moved the bolt 30mm further down to give better roof height as well as some separation of the Linak arm to the pivot bolts when down.
The trade off in doing this is that more torque is needed by the Linak motor. These are rated at up to 20 amps so I ran nice heavy 30 amp cable all the was to the motors.

Of course then I had to re-Blue the arms. Pic 5

Pic 6 is to give you an idea of the up position height.

Pic 7 is how I secured the Linak arm the lifting bolts. Captured Nut in the Linak U section. Not much torque on this nut so a little lock tight and it will stay put.

Finally Pic 8 is actually a movie of the arm movement. Its only 5 seconds long but that's all it needs to be.
The key in the front is the emergency open if the remote fails.

Sorry if this plays on its side. Windows player was like that but VLC plays it correctly.
Hope to post the finished wiring soon.

Peter

no but i did take a nap in there 

me too

Were there 11 long haired friends of Jesus in the Chartreuse Microbus??   

Disappointed that there aren't any valves used in the dash cluster. 

Paint is looking good.   

Looking good 

I have posted on FB

PS Will have to pick up the jukebox soon, now restrictions have lifted

Starting Electrics
At last I got to the electrics this weekend.
First jobs were to redo the dash and console.
I keep them both very much old school but neater.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9xCe3naVtpDZwaPD8
I tested the old loom by plugging everything in and NOTHING worked.
Too old, Been lying idle too long and too much corrosion.
Start again time. Saving as much wire as possible but with my own circuits and all new connectors.
Pic 1 is test gear. You don't need much to do a new loom but to pick apart an old one an cable tracer and signal injector save a lot of time.
Pics 2 and 3 are the old console vs the new one.
4 and 5 are the updated dash (almost - hazard switch not fitted).
6 and 7 - Now what to keep. Answer not much. I'll try to keep the more expensive heavy gauge wires but I hate splicing all through wires so most of it has to go.
8 although hard to see is me laying out most of the power control circuitry in the tub.
I don't know why people wire cars with multiple high current lines traveling the length of the car or even into the cabin.
Cabins are for controls not current. I will keep the high current lines as short as possible.
Pic nine is how not to splice everywhere. This is my cabin GND or more correctly 0v bus bar. The old loom ground wire had at least 8 spiced wires. Mine won't.
There are 2 more bus bars in the tub.

Peter

This week it was time for an experiment.
The lifting arms where corroded, barley moved and covered in layers of old black enamel paint.
I got them sand blasted back to bare metal.
I thought rather than paint, I'd blue the steel.
With a  good coating it should last for years and look pretty cool too.
Pic Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TnDKMxWxK744evJa9
1 is a before and chemicals.
2 is a before and after
3 is all the other bits curing

About the same cost as painting but it take a bit longer.