[Perth] Allan & Owen's - Purivs Eureka F4

[tool831]

Thank you. Do you have a link to the forum or topic post? Or was it done private message? 

[CyCo]

I sent a PM, though I could have made a post as there are a couple of Alfa powered Novas over there. The link is in the useful links section, but for ease of use, it's Euro Nova.

 

[CyCo]

I have a reply.

Hmm. What is the oil pressure reading?

I would expect the oil pressure to drop as the engine warms up, so the reported symptoms are completely normal, but it is the actual cold and hot pressures that are of interest. Cold oil pressure can be quite high for these engines, 60-70 psi (4.25-5 Bar in Roman Catholic), dropping to maybe 15-20 psi at hot idle.

Early Alfasuds had the "thrash light", a warning light on the dash that was connected to a temperature sender on the RH cylinder head (LH on a Reek, when viewed from the rear), nearest the oil pressure switch. This monitored the temperature of the cylinder head and would not extinguish if the temperature was below 30°C. The idea being that above that temperature the oil would be warm enough to flow more readily so the gaskets wouldn't blow out. Later engines did not have this feature. I always refrain from "giving it the beans" until my coolant temperature has got above this level.

If the oil pressure is very low, then there are some things to check. The oil pickup is at the very bottom of the sump, and if this is dented, the pump can be starved of oil. Ditto excessive sludge in the sump, which needs cleaning out. The clearance is very small, and the engine sits quite low in the Beetle chassis. If the union between the oil pickup pipe and the pump itself is loose or the pipe is cracked then similar starvation can result. If all that is clear/clean then the usual suspects apply (mains, big ends etc.).

Oh, one other point - because the main oil gallery is above the level of the pistons and cylinder heads, the factory oil filter has built-in non-return valve to stop the oil from draining back to the sump between runs. Some aftermarket filters don't have this valve!

I hope this has given your Alfa Eureka guy some things to consider.

Happy Christmas!

Lauren

That last bit about aftermarket filters sounds worth looking into for you. 

[tool831]

Thanks CyCo.

Here is the results:

2 Hours idle - Timed

Weather condition was 36°C

Oil Pressure
Cold started at 70 PSI
Hot @ 15 PSI this was constant for 2 hours.

Water Temp
Interior Gauge - 200°F
Temp thermometer in the radiator  - 140°F   (60°C)




By going on what Lauren said in that PM, I would say it is fine but if you could forward the result and double check would be appreciated.  

[CyCo]

Passed the info on.

 

[CyCo]

Ok, here's the reply.

At an ambient temperature of 36°C and after 2 hours of running, the idle oil pressure of 15 psi is OK for this engine, and the fact that it remains consistent is also reassuring.

The Alfa service manual for this engine gives the following oil pressure specification:

800 rpm : 17 - 40 psi
5,500 rpm : 60 - 82 psi

Recommended oil is Agip Sint2000 10W50, which I believe is a full synthetic. That's for the Alfa 33 boxer with mechanical tappets. I think the earlier recommendation was 10W40 semi-synthetic (which is what I currently use), or mineral oil with a weight of 10W50 or 10W40.

There is a lot of argument over what is best for the engine. In my experience, they are all fine, as long as the oil and filter is changed regularly. Obviously the grade of oil will have an affect on the hot oil pressure, but as long as it stays within the above limits, all is well according to the factory.

Given the uncertainty in the electrical sender I wouldn't be overly concerned that the 'Reek is pushing out slightly less than the recommended oil pressure at idle.

Lauren

Sounds like it's all ok.

 

[tool831]

Sure does, cheers for that. We can relax now about that.  


I personally (Myself - Owen) want to ask anyone who comes across this thread, any tips to increase interior air flow? Our eureka has air from two interior vents from the side but it's not enough.  Allan is starting to think crazy and considering to make it a targa top. I personally don't want him cutting the roof.
 
Any opinions? Or anyone done something to their Eureka to increase natural air.

[CyCo]

Don't cut the roof. There isn't enough of them around, they're an endangered species!!

Aside from leaving the windows off, you're stuck with the vents. Most of our cars have two 'eye ball' vents at the corners of the dash, and that's about it. Some have additional vents in the side pockets.

I have an additional vent (another 'eye ball'), down in the footwell on the drivers side, behind the steering column. It is a pain to reach down and open/close it, but it certainly helps with additional air flow.

Make sure that the ducting you use doesn't have holes and is sealed around the back of the vent. It also helps if the ducting is nice and large and fairly straight. Obviously not going to be easy to do with these cars, but the more bends and kinks, it will slow the air flow down.

Another thing, if you're going to be leaving your windows on (due to wet weather for example), is to provide a way for the air coming into the cabin to leave the cabin. I know it may sound weird, but it's all fluid dynamics. You'll get better air flow through the cabin (via the vents), if you pop a window open a fraction.

One idea is to put vents on the rear of the cabin. On some older cars, there used to be a duct leading from a vent in the cabin, often on/under the parcel shelf, or in the 'c' pillar, that lead to the body work behind the rear bumper. There was another vent here, behind the bumper that operated like a 'one way' valve. If their was air flowing through the car and the windows were up, the vents would open to allow the air flow through the car and help keep people comfortable. These vents were actually a very simple construction, often just a basic vent with a rubber flap over the vent. No air flow, the vent was shut. When their was air flow, the air pressure of the air trying to escape would push the rubber flap open.

So it could be possible to take one or two of these vents, install them on the rear of the cabin, most likely from behind the rear cabin wall, to allow the air to escape when the windows are closed. However, it would probably allow more engine noise into the cabin. Even if you put the vents into the rear wheel arches, you'd also end up with road noise.

Apparently the Novas had molding on the very rear edge of the roof (I think in the center behind the t-bar handle), for a vent. But I don't think many ever had this operational. The idea being that you could pop open the vent to allow air to escape the cabin. That could be another possibility.

Or, fit aircon.

 

[Morris]

I agree with Cyco, you must get air out to get air in. I have a removable sun roof, when opened at the rear sucks air out.
Also works very wel as an escape hatch (have had to use it 3 times when hydraulics failed, electrics also do fail!)

Morris

[Philinsa]

On the subject of getting air  IN
On my "Blank" reek I have the vents in the side pockets which are ducted igfht to the front in the nose opening. It gets great air flow in from there.

[tool831]

On the subject of getting air  IN
On my "Blank" reek I have the vents in the side pockets which are ducted igfht to the front in the nose opening. It gets great air flow in from there.

Exactly what we have now. Except its not enough, great flow though.

[Allan]

  Hi guys 2 smallsuggestions...poss, a 3rd.   1  split the tube with a Y junction just after it enters the side sill..shorttube goes to same /matching vent in TUB ...next to your knees. Vent should have swiv, /directional face to it..to control where you want aie to go.  I used a" seasonal vent" ..with its own pick up tube with it's outlwt placed at FRONT of footwell... behind break ped, ...that way you have a foot either side 7 not blocking air flow along your body.
      This is an area to experiment with....

AIR IN----AIR OUT... ! To  creat a drawing effect ..IE : enhanced flow/suction... You need...an outlet that is double the size ...of the INLET/ PICKUP...!   This may come from removing 1 or 2 windows ...or just having them open..?    ONE... Invisable outlet I used in a particularly HOT CAR... was to remove the rear window tunnel...  And using a 2 or 3' hole saw... creat 2 groups of 3 holes in the TOP of it...!  These holes can' start' as soon as the radius of the SIDES curve into the TOP surface, to be drilled ,leaving a min, of 5 to 6 cm, between the holes...( for strength in the tunnel it's self.) this will result in the strength remaining also because you should have a large gap between the 2 sets of holes.   Also benefits the fact that the holes are closer to larger SPACE you are trying to direct the air THROUGH.... by way of creating an exhaust effect..!   IF full of sound proofing.. then create an outlet tube that vents BEYOND & away from motor.  ( to avoid picking up engine noise ).... Dress the cut circles with black permanent marker...  then lay cut to size ..1 piece of mesh over all holes and glue it in place ..onder pressure...to keep it flat..!  In short ..to creat AIR-FLOW...U need to let AIR-OUT...!

Do hope this may help a little.  Oh ..why" seasonal vent"...?

Crawling down to the base of the footwell...is something you only want to do twice a year.... OPEN summer...CLOSE for winter...Lol

Cheers guys & do have a great 2013...AND that goes for  ' ALL PECCA 'members out there....! ! !    ( Inc, our beloved Prezzzz & first Lady...  xo)

Allan P

[tool831]

Hey everyone.

Thought I'd resurrect this topic. To let everyone know what's been going on. It's been going strong and still constantly cleaning it.

So not much has been changed. The interior air solution was corrected, we've now got a marine blower under the dash. Installed new air vent in the passenger side dash and two rear vents, one behind driver and passenger to allow air to pass out; Fitted a reverse camera, screen sits above the steering column. New springs and a rear disc conversion was done.

[Current Progress] Currently Allan is putting new headlights in, the choice to upgrade was from a night cruise, very low light. These will be full glassed in with the body and obvious resprayed.



[26/08/2014] Our Eureka has also Won a award in the Australia VW Club car show, category "Factory Buggy"


[17/01/16] Southern Coffee Cruise - Raising money for Waroona fires that happened in south WA.


[12/02/16] Attended a ACE (Ford Club) night cruise. On this day the club allowed all cars.


[28/02/16] Attended a Memorial cruise for one of Allan's known mates.


[26/03/16] Rear wheel drive car show in Fremantle.

[CyCo]

Awesome stuff! Those headlights from the Sterling mob over in the US? Do the rear vents in the cabin allow noise in from the engine/road noise?

And, are you parked next to a Tatraplan in that last photo?!

 

[tool831]

Awesome stuff! Those headlights from the Sterling mob over in the US? Do the rear vents in the cabin allow noise in from the engine/road noise?

And, are you parked next to a Tatraplan in that last photo?!

 

I had a look on the net came across Mazda RX7, MX5, Nissan pop up conversion kits.  From there research did lead into the Sterling mob. So we went on a chance and brought Nissan 240SX headlight conversion and created everything else. The vents I don't feel as though they produce more noise, can cruise with the radio on and still talk. On the plus side they do close if needed, specially I guess with puddles/water. I'll have to take some images of it.

**Much earlier shot of the headlight fitting**




And yes, it is a Tatraplan.    Delorean shown up that day too.