Aiden's Car

[Aiden]

Hi Everybody, well it's about time i post some pics and info on what's been happening in my shed.

I bought this car from tassie mid last year and drove it around for a little while before deciding it was time
to rebuild it



After stripping it down my first move was to move the shifter/handbrake to a more comfortable position.....









I then cleaned up the aftermath of a clutch cable replacement job and fitted a removable plate,









Followed by new floor pans, (the old ones had afew too many speed holes for my liking)





and after a trip to the blaster/powder coater I started to build it up.







that's pretty much it for the chassis, apart from some pedal mods that i'm still working on, i'll be posting some pics of the
body soon.

Cheers, Oakie

[jacko]

Hi Aiden

Looks like shes gonna be  better than ever..I get envious of you  dudes with all the  skills to do all those  changes .Good luck with it .

Are ya gonna use the  pop up headlight set up? as
Ive got a feeling they will make me do that here in tassie ...

if you dont use it  I would be keen....

otherwise I would like to  chat about how its  put together.   thanks      Jacko

[Aiden]

Hi Jacko,

Thanks, i haven't had a chance to do much work on it lately but it's slowly getting there.

as for the pop up headlights, i'm not going to use them mainly because i've got a different setup in mind that i like the look of more.
the headlights themselves are probably salvageable, but the mountin brackets might as well be thrown away and started from scratch, they're a bit over engineered in regards to size and mass. I believe they're out of a Mazda rx7 and the electrics hooked up to them needs a bit of re-doing.
anyway, if you do want them let me know, as i don't have a use for them, i was only going to bin them once the car is finished.

if you want some info about working on these cars or a general chat feel free to post questions or you can send me a p.m. or email. contacting me by phone is a bit difficult these days, i don't have mobile reception at work or at home, only really when i'm out and about.

cheers, Aiden.

[WYKED1]

 Aiden.

Looks great.
now all you have to do is bolt it together and get it to Mildura ( just joking )
hope to see it at one of our meets soon in S.A.
james

[Aiden]

Hi all,
it's been a while but i'm slowly getting there, having said that, not much has happened.
Off work at the moment due to a slightly broken wrist, apparrently downhill mtb is a dangerous sport,
So while i have some time to sit and think about what i've done, thought i'd update a bit.
first up are some photo's that i forgot to show a while back of what the body is looking like.
and the last is my newly built 2L veedub engine(soon to be EFI), for some stupid reason i didn't think to take any pics whilst building it.
got most of the parts from Mick Motors up in QLD. nice guy.









still need to fit tinware, alt, manifolds, etc, etc. cast is off/plates out in a few weeks and i can't wait, i havent worked since 4th of Jan!

[Aiden]

Well, not much has happened lately. I've been flat out working and barely have any time think these days.

the eureka is slowly getting there, the engine runs perfect with the EFI kit and electronic ignition. CB Performance Make some great stuff. I have patched up all of the unwanted holes in the body and other panels, and every time I get a chance I'm out to the shed to do a bit more sanding. Maybe one day it'll be ready for painting. after all, I would like to finish it sometime this century!!!

I'll have to take some more pics of the verrry slow progress sometime.

[barsted]

G'day Aiden. Great work so far, keep it up! A bit of advice if I may. I see you have set up to use a remote oil cooler. I assume your crankcase has two oil pressure valves. The one at the flywheel end is a minimum pressure valve and the pulley end one is the oil cooler bypass valve. The restriction of the hoses will raise the oil pressure as measured at the inlet of the main oil gallery. This means the oil cooler bypass valve will see a higher pressure, which it thinks is caused by cold oil, and it will start to bypass the oil cooler to speed up oil warmup. This can cause the oil temps to be too high at higher RPM, i.e. highway speed. If you are using a larger than standard oil pump, the problem will be worse. I spent 2 years trying to sort out high oil temps in mine. Finally worked that I needed to increase the spring load on the bypass valve by adding an 8mm spacer under the spring. Problem solved! The odd bit was that a number of VW 'experts' did not understand how the system worked and thought the high oil temps were a function of increased HP production. Wrong!
Also the VW manuals recommend positioning of the joint in the rear axle boots to face aft, not up, as this allows more flexing when the axle swings up.
Look forward to seeing more progress photos, just don't break any other body parts to create the time to do it!

[magooster]

thanks barsted
 for the heads up on the bypass valve re-
 sumps and pumps .
I will be watching the gauges when we fire up my motor
 for the first time (before October) and this info will be
a big help if I have high readings.
many thanks 
ken.

[Aiden]

G'day barsted,

Thanks for the advice! I shall correct the positioning of the axle boots the next time I wander out to the shed. And as for the oil cooler bypass, that's a bit of a curly one indeed! I have had the engine running a couple of times in the shed, but most of the gear was jimmy rigged to keep the ecm happy. I had an oil pressure gauge hooked up (for obvious reasons) but didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Probably because it wasn't exactly working all that hard. I'll definitely be keeping that in mind though!

Cheers, Aiden.