My new reek

[WYKED1]

Just dig a hole Simon I'm sure Susie can read and more than likely use a shovel 

[Agroeureka]

Hi

Why not just use Susie's motor she would not mind
Would not take long for you to knock up a alloy radiator and fittings
So

One weekend remove motors
Second weekend make radiator
Third weekend prewire run hoses
Fourth fit motor add fluids
Fifth weekend Move when Susie finds her motor missing

Andrew

Go on do it

[The Metalsmith]

"Not happy Jan".
                        Too much rust under all the hydraulic fluid-soaked cardboard/plastic/bog/chicken wire. I'd hoped the fluid would've protected the metal but no. Too much to cut and replace a couple of sections here and there. It had to be done properly.

It took me a weekend (9th -10th July) to strip the body off and remove the existing pans and another (16th-17th) to weld in new ones and put the body back on the chassis. No shortcuts: new pans were puddle welded every 30mm then seam sealed, then the underside was sprayed with stone guard. While I was there I put a new gearshaft nylon in and sealed the body back onto the chassis with a new VW seal kit.

Check the little fella's face when he see's what I've done to "his" car!

     Simon

[redreek(the stig)]

rrrrrrrrrrrust

[The Metalsmith]

Here's the result.
                          I banged her back down and put the body back on about an hour after this shot. The body and chassis holes lined up spot on, so I must've done it right!



     Simon

[Agroeureka]

Hi
Thought you would have lowered the halfs for seat room

Andrew

[The Metalsmith]

Hi mate,
               Unlike your oversize self, I'm in the perfect driving position when I use standard pans and seat rails that sit the seats close to the floor. I had the opportunity to move the gearstick/handbrake backwards too, but again, bending the gearstick down low so the knob is in a better position is all I've been doing for years.

I'll cut a hole in the transmission tunnel at the clutch cable/pedal linkage so checking/changing the cable will be a breeze. I'll also cut one in the 'glass at the unijoint end of the gearshaft for future easy access. After putting the shaft back in I renewed the unijoint anyway.

I hate the sloppy gear changes on these cars (it's this point alone that started me on the path rebuilding my black reek) so I've slotted the stick end of the gearshaft to use the later model stick with a dowel in the bulb. So far it appears to be working well.

     Simon

[Agroeureka]

Hi

Oversized? I fit in my clothes ok!

Andrew

[The Metalsmith]

 

[Slug52]

Hey Sime Baby you really owe it to yourself (and the car) to put that gear shift where it needs to be - we both know where that is - it's a bit of stuffing around but there's no shame in asking for help should you run into that ol' brick wall. Why not bite the bullet now and maybe throw some POR 15 paint on the chassis while you're having fun? The POR 15 is also a heavier paint -might even make welding seams look a little tidier as a further bonus! Either way you win - it'll take your driving experience up several notches, guaranteed! More importantly, you'll feel a genuine sense of personal satisfaction knowing you bit the bullet and pushed the envelope. Good luck! Slug.

[Agroeureka]

Hi
Having seen Simon's welding i think a coat of clear would be best.
Gear shift will work best for his size as he said in other post

Andrew

[The Metalsmith]

Thanks for that Andrew!
                                    It's a bit difficult to explain to forum members who haven't seen the standard of my work.
Heya Slug, as I said at the very start of this thread, this reek is a smash build: a car I'll put together as quickly as possible with a "loose" budget, the target being Mildura in Oct. Yes I could've used POR 15 everywhere but I would've wanted to do it right and pulled the trailing arms and front end off and basically everything that could be removed: just like I did with my black reek (see below).

And that means I would've renewed everything while I was there: new ball joints, nylothane inserts etc everywhere: a lot of time and un-necessary expense. A "loose" budget means I'll spend a little more in areas I choose: disc brake rear, Momo steering wheel, suede and carbon fibre dash. Stuff that will "take my driving experience up several notches".

The primary goal is to have this car roadworthy for Mildura, no matter what it looks like. My black reek is where I've "pushed the envelope".

Enough about mine; will yours be there? Wearing my old wheels? Another black reek would be cool.

     Simon
 

[Slug52]

Houston...........we may have a problem! After looking at your photo Simon, we may well have a hard time figuring out which black Eureka is which in Mildura. If it comes down to the number plates - for the record....mine are stock standard Vic black and whites. The dyno at this stage says leave those 4 stud wheels at home - for obvious reasons. Either that or I try and back her off a bit at one of the blowers. Regards, Slug.

[The Metalsmith]

Eeerr,
              So that's a no to the wheels and a yes to a high HP reek. Good. I look forward to seeing it.

     Simon

[Philinsa]

OK Simon, as promised, (when I got back), beware, I'm back.

Here's that now famous Video from back in 2007 Ballarat National Meet

Enjoy guys


http://youtu.be/NkKxZqORi4k

or you might find it here