My F4

[tmerivale]

geez!, page 1 here i come, gonna read the whole lot now

[ireek]

Hey cyco

    Can you jump start car with jump pack, then take jump pack off with motor running. If motor stops alt, if it keeps goin probably droped cell in battery. If you want us to come for a run down to have a look at weekend let us know. Darren has my no. I dont have yours.

Anthony.

[CyCo]

I can jump start the car, get it running and it keeps running when I take disconnect the jump pack. So going by what you daid, it could very well be a dud battery. Just my luck. lol

I'm working this weekend, I'm currently in the middle of my 7 day run, so I don't finish until tuesday afternoon. I've been a bit hesitant to take it for a spin, I don't fancy another tow. 

[cruetoone]

it sound's more an more of similar problems i had but then again every eureka is different i was running a
v w 1600 your engine setup different to that ...it probly is the battery cause a battery has a shelf life if the car is not driven daily in saying that what i'm getting at it's not holding it's charge so whatever your problem is at the moment is somewhere between the battery an the motor ... in my case the generator was a contributing factor but the gizmo near the drivers side tyre was corroded an rusted it 's purpose was to start the car an that's all it did .. i know this is not going to help you because like i said every eureka is different... an putting the battery it on those battery rechargers overnight after taking off an out of car is not an ideal  solution because i've been in that predicament it only solves it short term..

[The Metalsmith]

Dave's right Cyc-baby,
                                Normal car batteries need at least weekly use to maintain their charge and see their full life span. For our reeks, which may or may not be driven for weeks, I'd recommend buying a long life battery like an Optima or similar. These batteries can be charged and discharged hundreds of times over a period of several years without wear.

They cost about $320 to $360. Susie will have one in her rotor soon, because she doesn't drive it enough and normal batteries can get expensive if you're buying one every year or so. I'll be putting one in my reek too.

     Simon

[CyCo]

It seems like you guys are missing something;

The battery is only at most, one (1) month old. It was also new stock. I first used the the car one week after I fitted the new battery. I've had my car turn over first or second attempt after not using it after 3 months. Not even needed a jump start.

I'm not saying that the battery is pefect, I could have bought a dud. It happens.

The previous battery was unknown to me. It came back with the car when Ron brought it back to me. He had several batteries at his place and couldn't remember which one was mine. So I have no idea how old the previous battery was. For all I know it was 4 years old and truely on it's last legs. It had to be recharged several times in the first 3 months.

I put the new battery in the car and get 30 minutes use out of it, then I have problems. Going from that, it sounds like a possible battery failure. But it's held it's charge since then. To make sure I'll go turn it over this arvo.

I should point out that even if I don't take it out for a spin, it gets turned over at least once a fortnight and I let it run for abour 30 minutes.

It starts, so the starter motor isn't at fault (unless it was sticking, and the 4x2 + hammer trick jolted it loose).

I've checked the various leads/terminals. And aside from a couple grub screws loose on the positive terminal (and by loose they needed maybe an 1/8th turn to tighten them), all connections seem ok.

Someone at work pointed out it may be the regulator is at fault, for that I'd need a auto electrician to tell me what's going on with it, same with the alternator.

Hmm, battery history. The battery in it lasted until I had the problem with the starter motor prior to the Canberra meet. I replaced it then, but the problem was the starter motor (which was replaced). That new battery was in the car until it went to Rons to be rewired. Then it came back with a unknown battery (to me) which lasted 6 months. Then the new one I bought about a month ago.

It will be going to an auto electrician next week so work out whats happening.

[ireek]

hey cyco

  when you start it check what voltage you have, then rev it and see if it goes up much. Should go up a bit but should not go over 16volts. If over 16 when reved maybe regulator cooked batt, but if not take battery back for warrenty if came with any, most batts only come with 3 month warranty and are made to last 12 months. Only some batterys come with longer warranty and cost lots more. eg calcium sealed batterys.

Anthony

[CyCo]

Didn't get a chance to check it this afternoon, got some overt time and didn't get back until dark (meant to finish at 17:00 anyway). Hopefully I'll get home tomorrow whist there is still some daylight. Whist I do have a garage, it's an out building and has no lights, let alone power.

I'd check what the battery is reading when I rev the engine, but the readout is up under the bonnet. And I'm fairly sure I've still got the receipt for the battery. Been meaning to look for it but forgetting to. lol

[cruetoone]

but in the wrong context cyco i miss when my eureka used to look like this but had the same dilemma you are having now...

[CyCo]

hey cyco

  when you start it check what voltage you have, then rev it and see if it goes up much. Should go up a bit but should not go over 16volts. If over 16 when reved maybe regulator cooked batt, but if not take battery back for warrenty if came with any, most batts only come with 3 month warranty and are made to last 12 months. Only some batterys come with longer warranty and cost lots more. eg calcium sealed batterys.

Anthony

Ok, just went out and started the car. It hadn't been touched since last week. With a couple of pumps of the loud pedal, she started first turn. Before I started her, I checked the voltage, 12.4. After I got her going, I checked it again, 14.1. Using what else, a hammer, I got the revs up a bit and quickly checked the voltage, 14.1.

So going by what you said Anthony, that should rule out the regulator. There's not much left to check, it's starting to sound like the alternator is the only thing it could be.

[Aiden]

hey all,

just a thought cyco, have you checked you earth strap from engine to chassis? i don't want to lead you up the garden path but a bad earth can often cause all sorts of headaches. good luck with your fault finding.

Aiden.

[CyCo]

Actually, no I haven't. I'll go hunting for that hopefully tomorrow afternoon.

 

[CyCo]

Checked the earth strap, right down the front of the gearbox. Well, it looked ok, bit hard to get to.

Anyway, it's currently down at the auto electrician. You know how you get some problem on your car, but take it to the mechanic and he can't find the fault as it seems to disappear?

Not this time!

I had parked it in his driveway whist I talked with him about the problem, and various things I'd done to isolate it. Then a customer came in to pick up his car, so I had to move mine out of the way. And then it did the same trick as it did at the petrol station. I hopped in it, and turned the key. It went to start, then just plain stopped. Turn the key and nothing. No starter motor, no relays clicking over. Nothing.

Pushed into the workshop and he asked where the battery is. So I open the bonnet and automatically check the battery terminal readout. Not a thing, doesn't light up.

So he comes along and starts looking and checking a couple of things, including the isolation switch. Yes, I did forget to mention I have one fitted under the bonnet, but I had checked that myself to the best of my capability (which really isn't much!). As he was checking the leads, he bumped the button for the battery terminal display, and I see it flicker!!

I quickly suggest I turn it over whist he walks down the side to poke around in the engine bay. I hop in and turn the key. And it starts!!

So it's getting a new isolation switch today. Hopefully it's ready this afternoon, otherwise I should be able to pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully today, but we'll see. Can't be too late either, I have a dinner date to attend at 18:00 this evening.

[cruetoone]

that's great news but what's the isolation switch is that like a imobiliser a security feature for theft...

[CyCo]

Follow the tube coming through the bonnet to where it sort of meets the 'wall of the under bonnet area on the left. The red thing is the isolation switch.

You're right it is a security feature, in that it helps prevent thieves from taking your ride. That red thing is a plastic key, on the end of which is a brass 'tooth'. When you remove it, and it's been installed correctly, it will stop electricity being supplied by the battery to the loom in the car. It simply won't start. When you insert the key and turn it, the brass 'tooth' finishes the connection and you'll be able to drive off.

Now, one thing I had forgotten is that those keys do tend to wear out after a while. I also forgot to ask the auto electrician, but I think he swapped in a new isolation switch, as I don't believe the keys are available just by themselves.


So here's hoping that all the problem was the switch. And yes, it's home in the garage tonight.