Time for another project

[The Green Reek]

Time for an Update guys and possibly gals.
Colour Correction Time.
Unfortunately for IT people the lock down means even more work than usual so I've been a bit too busy to mess with the car for a while.
Of the 8 red bits I'd already painted I chose the best of them to set the base colour for the car.
3 pieces needed colour adjustment after the body was painted as a result.

Pics Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vm5qDwUWUfG3dV7v8

Pic 1 is prep and I decided to get rid of all the ear holes to start clean on fastening them when finished.
2 and 3 are the Baslac Silver going down. About 3 coats.
4 Is as small bit of masking to lay the interior black coat. Note: No point in painting where the carpet will cover it.
5 is what happens when a dumb arse doesn't close the gun cover well enough and puts a black drip on the car.
This colour is a pig for spot repairs.
I had to blend the entire rear panel to get it even.
6 and 7 are the body in final base colour.
As my camera doesn't seem the get this colour right, 8 is an attempt to correct the image at lest on my phone screen. Probably different on your monitor.
9, 10 and 11 are all the other bits now colour corrected to the base body colour.

Not a fun job. This might be the last time I do a blended candy.
So if the weather holds for another couple of weekends I'll get the top coat 2K clear down on all of these.
Peter

[shonko]

Hi Peter,

posted on FB, prefaced with my comments

Hey all, it's been a while. Peter explains below, but all I heard was waaa waaa waaa. It hasn't helped project progress the fact that someone has also commissioned him to do a 1956 Seeburg jukebox project (repair) at the same time. That's what happens when you have too many skills.

(looking great, can't wait to see it with the clear coats, it is going to POP!)

[The Green Reek]

Final Paint Time - Yeh!
Pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/XhVKRHzgUoJUKmAQ6
Pics 1 and 2 are the Jukebox amp of Shaun's that took a little longer than expected. Old school!
3,4 and 5 are because I wasn't satified with the Baslac base coat on the black.
I still got some movement after months. I think my reducer may have been too old.
So I stripped it back and re did it.
6, 7 and 8 are the colour corrected bits now in full 2K clear. Shinny!
9 is prep wash for the body
10 says I need a better exhaust fan.
11 and 12 are the body in 2k.
Time to move on the electrics at last.
Peter

[shonko]

Hi Peter,

looking good   

I have posted on FB

Shonko

[INSTRO]

Love those jukebox pics , the paint looks great Peter.  Regards Richard L

[The Green Reek]

OK a couple of updates.
Last weekend it was finally time to replace the body on the chassis.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3nZ8ivM3kupDpKRe9
Pretty much self explanatory.

[The Green Reek]

This week it was time for an experiment.
The lifting arms where corroded, barley moved and covered in layers of old black enamel paint.
I got them sand blasted back to bare metal.
I thought rather than paint, I'd blue the steel.
With a  good coating it should last for years and look pretty cool too.
Pic Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TnDKMxWxK744evJa9
1 is a before and chemicals.
2 is a before and after
3 is all the other bits curing

About the same cost as painting but it take a bit longer.
 

[The Green Reek]

Starting Electrics
At last I got to the electrics this weekend.
First jobs were to redo the dash and console.
I keep them both very much old school but neater.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9xCe3naVtpDZwaPD8
I tested the old loom by plugging everything in and NOTHING worked.
Too old, Been lying idle too long and too much corrosion.
Start again time. Saving as much wire as possible but with my own circuits and all new connectors.
Pic 1 is test gear. You don't need much to do a new loom but to pick apart an old one an cable tracer and signal injector save a lot of time.
Pics 2 and 3 are the old console vs the new one.
4 and 5 are the updated dash (almost - hazard switch not fitted).
6 and 7 - Now what to keep. Answer not much. I'll try to keep the more expensive heavy gauge wires but I hate splicing all through wires so most of it has to go.
8 although hard to see is me laying out most of the power control circuitry in the tub.
I don't know why people wire cars with multiple high current lines traveling the length of the car or even into the cabin.
Cabins are for controls not current. I will keep the high current lines as short as possible.
Pic nine is how not to splice everywhere. This is my cabin GND or more correctly 0v bus bar. The old loom ground wire had at least 8 spiced wires. Mine won't.
There are 2 more bus bars in the tub.

Peter

[shonko]

Looking good 

I have posted on FB

PS Will have to pick up the jukebox soon, now restrictions have lifted

[CyCo]

Disappointed that there aren't any valves used in the dash cluster. 

Paint is looking good.   

[shonko]

me too

[The Green Reek]

LINAKS

Been a while I know.
Pretty much finished Electrics - New loom.
Just a few wires to go onto the motor and of course run the cables up to the roof which isn't on yet.
So on that it was time to install my lifting arms and new Linak actuators.
I picked these lifters up at the last AGM and I big thanks goes out to LINAK for being an awesome sponsor.
These also came with the LINAK Electronic control system which includes soft start motor controllers and wireless remote.

Pics Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3UPQeZmATq6CxWYE7

In a previous post I mentioned using Gun Blue on my arms. Pic1 is the chemicals. This worked great.

I had to make lower supports for the lifters so a bit of 6mm steel welded onto some 13mm bolts did the trick. Pic 2
This has the advantage to allowing for easy height adjustment and the motor can still swivel as it moves up.

The lifting bolt on the front arms had been mashed Pic3. Note part of it is 3/16 threat and some is 5/16 thread. These had to go.

Pic 4 is a before and after of the new bolt. I moved the bolt 30mm further down to give better roof height as well as some separation of the Linak arm to the pivot bolts when down.
The trade off in doing this is that more torque is needed by the Linak motor. These are rated at up to 20 amps so I ran nice heavy 30 amp cable all the was to the motors.

Of course then I had to re-Blue the arms. Pic 5

Pic 6 is to give you an idea of the up position height.

Pic 7 is how I secured the Linak arm the lifting bolts. Captured Nut in the Linak U section. Not much torque on this nut so a little lock tight and it will stay put.

Finally Pic 8 is actually a movie of the arm movement. Its only 5 seconds long but that's all it needs to be.
The key in the front is the emergency open if the remote fails.

Sorry if this plays on its side. Windows player was like that but VLC plays it correctly.
Hope to post the finished wiring soon.

Peter

[bribie ray]

hi is there a reek for sale in qld    please contact ray on   sideshowalley@westnet.com.au      thanks

[The Green Reek]

Hi,
I've been very slow doing more posts.
So many little jobs.
I'll post some pics in a few days.
This one will be for sale once I'm happy with it but unfortunately it lives in the great southern covid state.
Probably won't be super cheap but.
Peter

[shonko]

This last blast of winter is not making it any more desirable to be out in the shed either.