Time for another project

[The Green Reek]

Thanks Shonko. Don't ever mention the Scotch again  . Told Cathie its all Mark's fault.
Spent the day after I got back on my "hard to start when hot" reek.
Turned out to the crappy points. At full open I barley had 3 thou. cold and that was adjusted to the max.
Fixed now and happy.
Also got rid of that crappy GT40R coil and went for a non resistive one so I've got a lot more start juice now.
Started a production line of lower bits for paint prep.
Hope to have paint and pics by monday.
Started looking at dash and electrics too.
Thinking about an automatic battery disconnect system while stored.
Can't count how many times I've forgotten to disconnect after a drive and gone back 4 weeks later to no battery.
Of course I do run more standby computers than most.
Peter

[The Green Reek]

Black Bits
The lower car pieces were repaired quite a while ago but that was structural not finishing.
So it was finally time to get them painted.
I usually start with a thin undercoat.
This helps identify cracks and pin holes that you miss after the initial sanding.
A bit different from how you'd do a steel car.
You can see on the lower section that I had a number of holes that were hollow and went into the matting.
These are probably imperfections from the original gel coat.
The best way of dealing with these is to use the dremel and make them larger and much easier to fill adequately.
That is generally true for most pin holes.
After repairs and sanding I will do a much thicker undercoat to assist with any sanding swirl marks that may have been left.
After another sand I'll finish with a flow coat to give a smooth surface.
Time for the black.
This is a Baslac gloss black applied in 3 layers.
Pieces came out OK.
They will then get a light 1200~1500 grit wet sand where ever I find marks before a 2K top coat black will be applied.
An aluminium skid pan will be added to the center of the front piece. On my other car they usually only last about 3 years.
Finally the bits that face into the wheel arches will get a thick under chassis paint to protect them from stone chips.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gaqP2NQRBSuD4Ryq7
Peter

[shonko]

Hi Peter,

Posted on FB 

Keep them coming, looking good!!

Shonko

[The Green Reek]

Sorry its been a while.
Pics here -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/3M3FRj8ydnTrDKph8
Got busy last weekend with smaller bits.
My new mirrors finally came in. Pic1.
The black bits I'd done where in base coat and it was time for a 2K top coat.
With professional paints a base coat will never fully harden, A bit like polyester resin without a wax component.
So a decent rub back and apply a 2K black top coat. Next 3 pics.
The difference is fairly significant.
Finally it was time to get rid of smaller pieces (including new mirrors) that needed red.
Just the body and bonnet left.
Peter

[shonko]

posted on FB 

[The Green Reek]

Last post on this before Chrissy.
Finished the last of the red bits (Bonnet)
Car's now gone into the shed for prep.
Been pretty slow painting because the temp here hasn't been above 15 for a few weeks.
Making up for it now. 41 today.
Pretty much prepared for electrics now with all my bits and pieces coming in.
Custom Infrared proximity alarm designed and ready to test.
I am keeping smart electronics to a minimum though.
Should paint before new year.
Peter

Merry Christmas or whatever you believe in.

[shonko]

Happy New Year to you and yours!

Any updates on project progress?

Shonko

[The Green Reek]

Hi Shonko, same back.
Been a slow break. Too many cars at home with kids coming back so not much room to work.
Plus its been pretty hot in the shed. Northern Vic has been quiet on the fire front but I hope everyone was OK through this period.

OK now for the dumb news.
Photo's here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/VpHM4jakrdsgRwBc9
I decided it was time to work on the engine. (EA82)
It had a tappet noise when I bought it and as per Cyco's post and suby forums this is nearly always caused by bad seals causing low oil pressure.

So armed with new main seal, cam seals, tension rollers, idler, oil filter, oil sender, oil pump O rings, plugs and timing belts I set about a minor tune.
Pic 1 was where to align the Cams for disassembly. Note opposite cam is 180 degrees out.
This isn't TDC but rather a mid point for all pistons to allow valve movement without the terribly clunk sound when valves and pistons meet.
The Suby manual and forums talked extensively about timing the cams so I wasn't overly worried about things moving while I was undoing tight bolts.
Big mistake!

I should (in my defense) say that all my boxer experience up to this point was VW type 1 and we time everything from the crank pulley not the flywheel.

Disassembly and seal replacement went smoothly but then I went to set timing for re-assembly.
Time marks in pic 2 are for Subaru bell housing mating plate and Subaru flywheel. Neither of which I have because it mates to a VW transaxle.

Oops!

Pic3 is old bits coming off.
After a couple of days I finally found a picture (Pic 4) of how to set the dissy timing which runs off RH cam and is based on No 1 at TDC. Yeah!
So I am pretty confident now that its timed OK. Plus it turns over without that clunk.
Pic 5 assembled and Pic 6 replaced bits. Still needs a good clean though.
Of course it will be another 3-5 months before I have it on the gear box to test this timing thesis.
Peter

[The Green Reek]

I should title this post as "Always check everything"

Still working on the chassis as I haven't swapped things around since Christmas.
I was in 2 minds about bothering to swap the transaxle out for the one that I got with the suby motor.
In the end I decided to as I could see shaving inside the bell housing so presumably the suby flywheel was a little different from stock vw.
This tuned out to be a VERY good move.

Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gdgchWsiDQWTfhna7

While undoing the CVs to release the box I noticed one instantly hit mounting arms and couldn't be lifted off. Pic1
PS. That frame was added to support the Escort motor this car had - Gone - Yeh.
I removed the Axle and found that one CV end moved a little while the other CV was stuck at right angles to the shaft and had NO movement. This couldn't have driven well.
Pic 2 is me disassembling the CV and comparing to an old one that worked.
Pic 3 is the issue. CVs MUST be built correctly. There are only 3 pieces and 6 balls. Get them the wrong way around and it is no longer a CV.
The ball race is on backwards in Pic 3.
Pic 4 is cleaned and ready for reassembly. Pic 5 is assembled.
Remember I said one moved a little. Well it shouldn't have but it was built with only 4 ball bearings not 6.
I couldn't source the correct bearings locally so I ordered a new CV (Pic 6).
Pic 7 is the horrible job of packing these with Molly grease and Pic 8 reinstalled and working nicely with the new gearbox.

So while I was already greasy and the engine was completed I decide to install it. Pic 10.
11 and 12 are a happy suby 1800 on the chassis.

Time to fix the brakes which all appear to be seized before I move it out of the shed.
I doubt I'll post on that as we all have brake stories.
My rears are Fiat 124 discs from the pads that came out.
Haven't gotten to the fronts or master yet.
Rears will only need a gasket set to be happy.
Hope the others are the same.
Peter

 

[The Green Reek]

I said I wouldn't post on brakes.
Well Sh!t.
Everything was stuffed.
I hate brakes.
Fought will calipers for hours to get them apart to find too much rust in the cylinders.
All Rubber lines are closed off. Half the hard lines need replacing.
Did I mention I hate brakes.
Don't get me started on those Fiat things.
Lots on new bits. It will stop.
Arrrrrh.

[shonko]

Hi Pete,

posted latest updates on FB, thank you. BTW are you coming to Hanging Rock? If so will we see you Saturday?

[The Green Reek]

HI Shonko,
Thanks for that.
I'll be heading in the north gate. Rain permitting.
What time you guys expecting to enter?
Peter

[shonko]

we are leaving my place at 8am, so we will be heading in the north end gate around 8.15am...........see you there

[The Green Reek]

Been a while since I've done a post so here's the little that has been started recently.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UanX3z2DBmnAADYU6
Brakes are finally done. Pic 1 shows my brand new front calipers care of Mike Motors.
Pic 2 are some of the left overs after everything went back together.
(there's always left overs - isn't always a bad thing.)

Anyway now the chassis has left the shed, the body can come back in for final paint prep.
After sitting in the sun for almost 2 months at around 40 degrees some new cracks opened up.
So all in all its a good thing to let it bake.
I'd rather find them now than when its in final paint.

So more dremil and fibre glass fairing and more sanding.
The rest of the pics are the body now ready for final undercoat.
I hope to get the body painted in about 2 weeks.
Then comes any colour correction coats needed as all the small bits where painted separately and I was only guessing at the density I wanted.
Difficult until I've got the body done. Not expecting much though.
Peter

[shonko]

posted on FB today, getting exciting