The Purvis Eureka Forum

I picked this up earlier this year from a un-named presidential source.
This is a google album. I couldn't login to the old photo share site.
Sorry I can't embed these into the post.
This will give you a good idea of the starting place for this one.
I'll post some more pics soon.
It's had glass work done on body and lower body. Just finishing roof.
Painting will be when its warmer.
Haven't even looked at mechanics yet. That's the easy part.
Note the use of angle grinder crack removal. Not to mention the silicon and packing tape holding it together.
Album:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u8hBkAgPEUqpDXX48
The next batch of pics will show you what 6 litres of poly resin, 5 litres of epoxy resin and 4 litres of epoxy fairing can do.

Peter

OK This is the Car arriving and starting the project.
The Escort motor is coming out and a Subaru 1.8 twin carb going in.
Note the excessive number of straps on the car. Nothing was bolted down.
The boat winch makes doing the job alone possible.
I had a set of dolly wheels from a Mustang project that worked great on the body so I could move it around.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dMGSnmHgZzNPMBw19

Peter

PS. The Escort motor and gearbox with adapter as well as the hydrolic system are up for sale.
PM Me is interested.

Lower and small bits.
The lower sections of the car were my starting point.
Lots of damage. Mostly deliberate.
It appears the person who took the car apart years ago didn't own spanners.
Every screw and bolt hole was torn off. In some cases there were 5" sections of glass missing.
There was a 3' tear down the under car front piece. Right through a compound curve.
The poor old elephant ears may have been the worst and needed the most time to get back to solid.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NU39QXzBi7xaaFpV6

Peter

Tub Repair
I mentioned my dollies from a Mustang project.
Well they were built long on one side to allow me to lift the mustang onto its side.
That worked great on the Eureka as well and allowed me to access and repair all the damage on the underside of the main body.
Starting with the tub and front. First job was to fill most of the 87 holes that had been drilled into the front tub area.
Don't know yet where I want holes but I'm sure I don't want 87.
Placing a matting repair from the underside allowed me to fill the holes with matting and micro glass beads with poly resin.
Of course every hole has to be enlarged and ground with a 1-2cm taper all around to allow the matting to take.
This was also a chance to try out my Epoxy fairing mix on the front cracking.
Epoxy is much harder, much more expensive and much slower drying than poly so I saved the epoxy for bits you can see on the finished project.
Using a dremel I ground the gel coat back to mat in a 1/4" V following the cracks.
The results impressed me enough to use this technique on more sections of the car.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a4ZRU1mvGBgcYyrU7

Peter

Petrol Cap
The original petrol cap looked to bet an ill fitting Holden something.
This is a Honda CBR cap fitted to whats left of a Honda tank.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pHDNGYsNrT6Kd3Zd7

Left Rear Quarter
I've done this one in detail as it is typical of all 4 quarters of the car.
It has had a serious hit.
Bad gel cracking and some minor damage to the underlying chop.
All of the gel coat had to be removed from the cracked areas.
Note: I stopped just short of the hard edge so I could retain the original shape.
Re-enforcing mat to the underside.
New mat to the carved out areas to build the height up again.
The cracks that ran through the edge were ground out and fairing added.
The shape of the car didn't suffer at all.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/t9rMg8MAFERtpNGF7

Peter

Rest of the Body
These pictures pretty well tell the story.
All quarters had suffered a fair amount of damage.
Left front was unique as the majority of the damage was done by the previous repairer.
It probably had some cracking but he attacked it with an angle grinder and cut right through the guard for about half its length.
A lot of underside repair on this to build up guard strength.
I think the repair was about 7 layers thick in the end.
Sharpy marks are low repair spots between fairing coats.
I usually did at least 3 fairing coats with a sand off between before I was happy with the finish.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xBLHfxvni72PYGJt6

Peter

You got yourself a pretty full on project, Peter.. The rear quarter repair job looks pretty good, well done.

Looking good Peter, will this one be at Port Macquarie  :o

I thought I saw a dust cloud north of me recently, must have been you sanding away in the shed.  ;D

Shonko

PS, I am sure a lot of people are missing out on this build. You might want to put it on the Facebook page. 

Hi Shonko
Not Port Macquarie but Gipsland for sure.
Just the Green this year.
This one isn't a keeper though, just a project.
You're not wrong about the dust. So much gel coat. Everything is red.
I have been playing with colour.
It will be a candy. Probably deep red metallic. Hope to put some samples up soon.
Roof is pretty much done. I'll use it for a colour test.
I'm not on any fancy facesnap or twitbook. You'll have to let them know for me.
Thanks
Peter

Roof and Ears
The Ears/scoops took a lot of work which I didn't document well - sorry.
As they were just ripped off the car with a lever they were broken and cracked quite badly.
I had to give up on rescuing the front lower cross arm as they were basically non existent on both.
I'll make up for that with new mesh before they go back on.
I had thought initially that the roof required little work.
I was wrong.
It is an incredible pain to remove years old silicon that had been liberally slathered all over the place to hold windows in place.
No silicon can remain if you want paint to hold.
Both aluminum (US spell check) quarter window arms had been broken off so their mount point were no existent and had to be rebuilt.
Not to mention another couple of dozen holes to get rid of.
This is where I started to look at my colour.
I had experimented with various dyes and perls.
I finally settled on a blood red dye on a lightning silver base (Baslac).
The copper looking top is due to using a base binding layer from Baslac.  
Same dye and same number of layers - Just too thin.
I ended up tossing that in favour of a clear coat colour base with dye added. Usually 5 - 6 thin layers deep.
With under coats and 2K top coats, its about 12 coats deep to get the colour I wanted.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ctGYBBxPZgvp4srX6

PS. I've include a picture of the roof center section. This was supposed to be gel coat. NOT.
You must remove blacks from under metalic paints. They will eventually boil and bubble in the ozzy sun. It may take years but it will happen.
I'm still making up my mind as whether to make it black like the original or red to match the new top. Thoughts?
PPS. Black is a lot cheaper and true to the original car.

Peter

I am taking notes and going through forum info , forgot to to have a look . Richard the Second.

On the way back from the AGM. Awesome weekend thanks Graham and co. This reek now has linak lifters but i might have to sleep in it for a while.

It was great to catch up Pete. Looking forward to seeing you next time. Hopefully for the Picnic at Hanging Rock in February 2020  ;)

The colour you are achieving on your project is amazing. Congrats.

Shonko

PS - I have stolen all your images on this forum and I will post them on Facebook. So keep them coming. Cheers........more scotch did I hear you say?? :O

FYI, this is the post on FB with your photos

Hi All, Pete "Greenreek" has given me permission to share his project pics here.......he doesn't FB. I have asked him to keep the photos coming, and I will periodically post them here for all to follow. I think it gives some great information for the DIY warrior working in his own shed.... garden.... veranda...and knowing Pete probably the dining table. All of which is a-ok when you are living in the 'dog house'!! BUT, don't worry access to the dog house is easy when the roof lifts up and down on your new actuators!!

Thanks Shonko. Don't ever mention the Scotch again  :-[. Told Cathie its all Mark's fault.
Spent the day after I got back on my "hard to start when hot" reek.
Turned out to the crappy points. At full open I barley had 3 thou. cold and that was adjusted to the max.
Fixed now and happy.
Also got rid of that crappy GT40R coil and went for a non resistive one so I've got a lot more start juice now.
Started a production line of lower bits for paint prep.
Hope to have paint and pics by monday.
Started looking at dash and electrics too.
Thinking about an automatic battery disconnect system while stored.
Can't count how many times I've forgotten to disconnect after a drive and gone back 4 weeks later to no battery.
Of course I do run more standby computers than most.
Peter

Black Bits
The lower car pieces were repaired quite a while ago but that was structural not finishing.
So it was finally time to get them painted.
I usually start with a thin undercoat.
This helps identify cracks and pin holes that you miss after the initial sanding.
A bit different from how you'd do a steel car.
You can see on the lower section that I had a number of holes that were hollow and went into the matting.
These are probably imperfections from the original gel coat.
The best way of dealing with these is to use the dremel and make them larger and much easier to fill adequately.
That is generally true for most pin holes.
After repairs and sanding I will do a much thicker undercoat to assist with any sanding swirl marks that may have been left.
After another sand I'll finish with a flow coat to give a smooth surface.
Time for the black.
This is a Baslac gloss black applied in 3 layers.
Pieces came out OK.
They will then get a light 1200~1500 grit wet sand where ever I find marks before a 2K top coat black will be applied.
An aluminium skid pan will be added to the center of the front piece. On my other car they usually only last about 3 years.
Finally the bits that face into the wheel arches will get a thick under chassis paint to protect them from stone chips.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gaqP2NQRBSuD4Ryq7
Peter

Hi Peter,

Posted on FB  ;D

Keep them coming, looking good!!

Shonko

Sorry its been a while.
Pics here -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/3M3FRj8ydnTrDKph8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/3M3FRj8ydnTrDKph8)
Got busy last weekend with smaller bits.
My new mirrors finally came in. Pic1.
The black bits I'd done where in base coat and it was time for a 2K top coat.
With professional paints a base coat will never fully harden, A bit like polyester resin without a wax component.
So a decent rub back and apply a 2K black top coat. Next 3 pics.
The difference is fairly significant.
Finally it was time to get rid of smaller pieces (including new mirrors) that needed red.
Just the body and bonnet left.
Peter

posted on FB  ;D

Last post on this before Chrissy.
Finished the last of the red bits (Bonnet)
Car's now gone into the shed for prep.
Been pretty slow painting because the temp here hasn't been above 15 for a few weeks.
Making up for it now. 41 today.
Pretty much prepared for electrics now with all my bits and pieces coming in.
Custom Infrared proximity alarm designed and ready to test.
I am keeping smart electronics to a minimum though.
Should paint before new year.
Peter

Merry Christmas or whatever you believe in.

Happy New Year to you and yours!

Any updates on project progress?

Shonko

Hi Shonko, same back.
Been a slow break. Too many cars at home with kids coming back so not much room to work.
Plus its been pretty hot in the shed. Northern Vic has been quiet on the fire front but I hope everyone was OK through this period.

OK now for the dumb news.
Photo's here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/VpHM4jakrdsgRwBc9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/VpHM4jakrdsgRwBc9)
I decided it was time to work on the engine. (EA82)
It had a tappet noise when I bought it and as per Cyco's post and suby forums this is nearly always caused by bad seals causing low oil pressure.

So armed with new main seal, cam seals, tension rollers, idler, oil filter, oil sender, oil pump O rings, plugs and timing belts I set about a minor tune.
Pic 1 was where to align the Cams for disassembly. Note opposite cam is 180 degrees out.
This isn't TDC but rather a mid point for all pistons to allow valve movement without the terribly clunk sound when valves and pistons meet.
The Suby manual and forums talked extensively about timing the cams so I wasn't overly worried about things moving while I was undoing tight bolts.
Big mistake!

I should (in my defense) say that all my boxer experience up to this point was VW type 1 and we time everything from the crank pulley not the flywheel.

Disassembly and seal replacement went smoothly but then I went to set timing for re-assembly.
Time marks in pic 2 are for Subaru bell housing mating plate and Subaru flywheel. Neither of which I have because it mates to a VW transaxle.

Oops!

Pic3 is old bits coming off.
After a couple of days I finally found a picture (Pic 4) of how to set the dissy timing which runs off RH cam and is based on No 1 at TDC. Yeah!
So I am pretty confident now that its timed OK. Plus it turns over without that clunk.
Pic 5 assembled and Pic 6 replaced bits. Still needs a good clean though.
Of course it will be another 3-5 months before I have it on the gear box to test this timing thesis.
Peter

I should title this post as "Always check everything"

Still working on the chassis as I haven't swapped things around since Christmas.
I was in 2 minds about bothering to swap the transaxle out for the one that I got with the suby motor.
In the end I decided to as I could see shaving inside the bell housing so presumably the suby flywheel was a little different from stock vw.
This tuned out to be a VERY good move.

Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gdgchWsiDQWTfhna7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/gdgchWsiDQWTfhna7)

While undoing the CVs to release the box I noticed one instantly hit mounting arms and couldn't be lifted off. Pic1
PS. That frame was added to support the Escort motor this car had - Gone - Yeh.
I removed the Axle and found that one CV end moved a little while the other CV was stuck at right angles to the shaft and had NO movement. This couldn't have driven well.
Pic 2 is me disassembling the CV and comparing to an old one that worked.
Pic 3 is the issue. CVs MUST be built correctly. There are only 3 pieces and 6 balls. Get them the wrong way around and it is no longer a CV.
The ball race is on backwards in Pic 3.
Pic 4 is cleaned and ready for reassembly. Pic 5 is assembled.
Remember I said one moved a little. Well it shouldn't have but it was built with only 4 ball bearings not 6.
I couldn't source the correct bearings locally so I ordered a new CV (Pic 6).
Pic 7 is the horrible job of packing these with Molly grease and Pic 8 reinstalled and working nicely with the new gearbox.

So while I was already greasy and the engine was completed I decide to install it. Pic 10.
11 and 12 are a happy suby 1800 on the chassis.

Time to fix the brakes which all appear to be seized before I move it out of the shed.
I doubt I'll post on that as we all have brake stories.
My rears are Fiat 124 discs from the pads that came out.
Haven't gotten to the fronts or master yet.
Rears will only need a gasket set to be happy.
Hope the others are the same.
Peter

 

I said I wouldn't post on brakes.
Well Sh!t.
Everything was stuffed.
I hate brakes.
Fought will calipers for hours to get them apart to find too much rust in the cylinders.
All Rubber lines are closed off. Half the hard lines need replacing.
Did I mention I hate brakes.
Don't get me started on those Fiat things.
Lots on new bits. It will stop.
Arrrrrh.

Hi Pete,

posted latest updates on FB, thank you. BTW are you coming to Hanging Rock? If so will we see you Saturday?

HI Shonko,
Thanks for that.
I'll be heading in the north gate. Rain permitting.
What time you guys expecting to enter?
Peter

we are leaving my place at 8am, so we will be heading in the north end gate around 8.15am...........see you there

Been a while since I've done a post so here's the little that has been started recently.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UanX3z2DBmnAADYU6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/UanX3z2DBmnAADYU6)
Brakes are finally done. Pic 1 shows my brand new front calipers care of Mike Motors.
Pic 2 are some of the left overs after everything went back together.
(there's always left overs - isn't always a bad thing.)

Anyway now the chassis has left the shed, the body can come back in for final paint prep.
After sitting in the sun for almost 2 months at around 40 degrees some new cracks opened up.
So all in all its a good thing to let it bake.
I'd rather find them now than when its in final paint.

So more dremil and fibre glass fairing and more sanding.
The rest of the pics are the body now ready for final undercoat.
I hope to get the body painted in about 2 weeks.
Then comes any colour correction coats needed as all the small bits where painted separately and I was only guessing at the density I wanted.
Difficult until I've got the body done. Not expecting much though.
Peter

posted on FB today, getting exciting :D

Time for an Update guys and possibly gals.
Colour Correction Time.
Unfortunately for IT people the lock down means even more work than usual so I've been a bit too busy to mess with the car for a while.
Of the 8 red bits I'd already painted I chose the best of them to set the base colour for the car.
3 pieces needed colour adjustment after the body was painted as a result.

Pics Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vm5qDwUWUfG3dV7v8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vm5qDwUWUfG3dV7v8)

Pic 1 is prep and I decided to get rid of all the ear holes to start clean on fastening them when finished.
2 and 3 are the Baslac Silver going down. About 3 coats.
4 Is as small bit of masking to lay the interior black coat. Note: No point in painting where the carpet will cover it.
5 is what happens when a dumb arse doesn't close the gun cover well enough and puts a black drip on the car.
This colour is a pig for spot repairs.
I had to blend the entire rear panel to get it even.
6 and 7 are the body in final base colour.
As my camera doesn't seem the get this colour right, 8 is an attempt to correct the image at lest on my phone screen. Probably different on your monitor.
9, 10 and 11 are all the other bits now colour corrected to the base body colour.

Not a fun job. This might be the last time I do a blended candy.
So if the weather holds for another couple of weekends I'll get the top coat 2K clear down on all of these.
Peter

Hi Peter,

posted on FB, prefaced with my comments

Hey all, it's been a while. Peter explains below, but all I heard was waaa waaa waaa. It hasn't helped project progress the fact that someone has also commissioned him to do a 1956 Seeburg jukebox project (repair) at the same time. That's what happens when you have too many skills.

(looking great, can't wait to see it with the clear coats, it is going to POP!)

Final Paint Time - Yeh!
Pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/XhVKRHzgUoJUKmAQ6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/XhVKRHzgUoJUKmAQ6)
Pics 1 and 2 are the Jukebox amp of Shaun's that took a little longer than expected. Old school!
3,4 and 5 are because I wasn't satified with the Baslac base coat on the black.
I still got some movement after months. I think my reducer may have been too old.
So I stripped it back and re did it.
6, 7 and 8 are the colour corrected bits now in full 2K clear. Shinny!
9 is prep wash for the body
10 says I need a better exhaust fan.
11 and 12 are the body in 2k.
Time to move on the electrics at last.
Peter

Hi Peter,

looking good   8)

I have posted on FB

Shonko

Love those jukebox pics , the paint looks great Peter.  Regards Richard L

OK a couple of updates.
Last weekend it was finally time to replace the body on the chassis.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3nZ8ivM3kupDpKRe9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/3nZ8ivM3kupDpKRe9)
Pretty much self explanatory.

This week it was time for an experiment.
The lifting arms where corroded, barley moved and covered in layers of old black enamel paint.
I got them sand blasted back to bare metal.
I thought rather than paint, I'd blue the steel.
With a  good coating it should last for years and look pretty cool too.
Pic Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TnDKMxWxK744evJa9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/TnDKMxWxK744evJa9)
1 is a before and chemicals.
2 is a before and after
3 is all the other bits curing

About the same cost as painting but it take a bit longer.
 

Starting Electrics
At last I got to the electrics this weekend.
First jobs were to redo the dash and console.
I keep them both very much old school but neater.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9xCe3naVtpDZwaPD8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/9xCe3naVtpDZwaPD8)
I tested the old loom by plugging everything in and NOTHING worked.
Too old, Been lying idle too long and too much corrosion.
Start again time. Saving as much wire as possible but with my own circuits and all new connectors.
Pic 1 is test gear. You don't need much to do a new loom but to pick apart an old one an cable tracer and signal injector save a lot of time.
Pics 2 and 3 are the old console vs the new one.
4 and 5 are the updated dash (almost - hazard switch not fitted).
6 and 7 - Now what to keep. Answer not much. I'll try to keep the more expensive heavy gauge wires but I hate splicing all through wires so most of it has to go.
8 although hard to see is me laying out most of the power control circuitry in the tub.
I don't know why people wire cars with multiple high current lines traveling the length of the car or even into the cabin.
Cabins are for controls not current. I will keep the high current lines as short as possible.
Pic nine is how not to splice everywhere. This is my cabin GND or more correctly 0v bus bar. The old loom ground wire had at least 8 spiced wires. Mine won't.
There are 2 more bus bars in the tub.

Peter

Looking good  8)

I have posted on FB

PS Will have to pick up the jukebox soon, now restrictions have lifted :)

Disappointed that there aren't any valves used in the dash cluster.  whistle

Paint is looking good.    O0

me too :D

LINAKS

Been a while I know.
Pretty much finished Electrics - New loom.
Just a few wires to go onto the motor and of course run the cables up to the roof which isn't on yet.
So on that it was time to install my lifting arms and new Linak actuators.
I picked these lifters up at the last AGM and I big thanks goes out to LINAK for being an awesome sponsor.
These also came with the LINAK Electronic control system which includes soft start motor controllers and wireless remote.

Pics Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3UPQeZmATq6CxWYE7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/3UPQeZmATq6CxWYE7)

In a previous post I mentioned using Gun Blue on my arms. Pic1 is the chemicals. This worked great.

I had to make lower supports for the lifters so a bit of 6mm steel welded onto some 13mm bolts did the trick. Pic 2
This has the advantage to allowing for easy height adjustment and the motor can still swivel as it moves up.

The lifting bolt on the front arms had been mashed Pic3. Note part of it is 3/16 threat and some is 5/16 thread. These had to go.

Pic 4 is a before and after of the new bolt. I moved the bolt 30mm further down to give better roof height as well as some separation of the Linak arm to the pivot bolts when down.
The trade off in doing this is that more torque is needed by the Linak motor. These are rated at up to 20 amps so I ran nice heavy 30 amp cable all the was to the motors.

Of course then I had to re-Blue the arms. Pic 5

Pic 6 is to give you an idea of the up position height.

Pic 7 is how I secured the Linak arm the lifting bolts. Captured Nut in the Linak U section. Not much torque on this nut so a little lock tight and it will stay put.

Finally Pic 8 is actually a movie of the arm movement. Its only 5 seconds long but that's all it needs to be.
The key in the front is the emergency open if the remote fails.

Sorry if this plays on its side. Windows player was like that but VLC plays it correctly.
Hope to post the finished wiring soon.

Peter

hi is there a reek for sale in qld    please contact ray on   sideshowalley@westnet.com.au      thanks

Hi,
I've been very slow doing more posts.
So many little jobs.
I'll post some pics in a few days.
This one will be for sale once I'm happy with it but unfortunately it lives in the great southern covid state.
Probably won't be super cheap but.
Peter

This last blast of winter is not making it any more desirable to be out in the shed either.

As promised.
Part 1 of 3.
Little bits - Engine bay
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LEXnbnQson1yXKBJ6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/LEXnbnQson1yXKBJ6)
Pic 1  and 2 is the engine with no air filter. Original got lost somewhere in the transport
So I bought 2 6" Filters and cut them. A little silver solder and I now have 1 Chromey air filter. Pics 3,4 and 5.
Pic 6 is just the front boot a little cleaner. All major electrical bits are here. The front bonnet is finally on.
Pic 7 is the radiator hosing in place. A little too early however.
After putting about 5 litres in I found 4.5 litres on the floor.
Off to my Natrad guy. Radiator was toast. Anyway new core and custom top. Twice as many cooling channels. I hope to fit that tomorrow.
8 and 9 with my engine cover fitted are the soft lift and stay for the cover. Needs paint still
Peter

Part 2 little bits.
Ears, Dash, Fuel
Pictures here https://photos.app.goo.gl/yavKBmwQ9YTSu64u8 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/yavKBmwQ9YTSu64u8)
Pic 1 is the fuel cap fitted. What you cant see is all new hosing back to the tank for fuel and breathing. New fuel pump fitted and plumbed up to carbies.
Eureka seem to have lots of blind bolts. This car had a lot of them as pop rivets. Not a good idea.
Pic 2 At bunnings you can get this nail strip for about $5.
Pic 3 is a small torch or if you're impatient you can use a large one for silver solder.
Pic 4 and 5 are using the strip to solder the bolts in place.
Pic 6 and 7 are strip bolts going into the dash cover
8 probably wasn't needed but its the instruments waiting patiently to be covered.
9 10 and 11 are the ears waiting for the same treatment.
I'm still in 2 minds about fitting mesh to the front of the ears. I don't mind the look without mesh.
This may not be the best way of doing these attachments but its the best I could think of.
I didn't want to glue bolts in place as I have taken enough old cars apart to know glue doesn't hold forever.
Then the only spanner that works is the one that puts a new disc on your angle grinder.
Pic 12 is the original decal which I was able to preserve although I'm not using the key switch.
The door pods had large holes in them for heating ducting. I never liked this so I'm not running heating to them but I did want cooling.
Quick answer was server cooling fans with PWM controllers for speed control. Pics 13 and 14.
They are surprisingly good and not very noisy.
Peter

Part 3 little bits.
Roof fit.
Pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/3xa8CsdCg3Xk9ujT9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/3xa8CsdCg3Xk9ujT9)
Pics 1 and 2 I think I put up before. The lifters fitted and ready as well as the captive bolt from the Linaks.
Pics 3 and 4 are the roof going on. No pics of it actually being lifted into place as I don't have a third arm for selfies.
Pics 5 and 6 are the fun job of threading the power cables through the roof for the wipers.
I found the inspection camera was a cool way of doing this. Still fiddly though.
Pic 7 Sitting on the roof where it bolts to the arms is my PWM control for wiper speed. I'm only using the high current winding on the wiper motor and controlling speed with this module.
Pic 8 is another shot of the bonnet fitted at last.
Pic 9. You all know that foam people who arrange flowers (not sexist) use. It is very cool as it doesn't spring back after being crushed.
Perfect for measuring roof gap before buying rubber.
So 10, 11 and 12 are this foam applied to the roof area to see what the closed gaps will look like.
Pic 13 or Diagram 13 is the measurements in mm of gap. Now to go to my rubber store if you know what I mean.
It was pointed out to me that Reeks are not bi-symmetrical and I should do this for the entire roof area. Thanks!!!!
Peter

looking good

Hi Reekers,
No pics this time.
Works been slowly proceeding.
Ears now have mesh on them.
Carpet is in.
Just about finished making my new 2 1/4" custom exhaust. Not enjoying that.

Anyway Heave a Merry Christmas particularly our Sydney crew. Sorry guys.
Peter

Exhaust n bits
Chrissy hols were way too busy to get much car stuff done so sorry for the slow post.
New pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ThhSRujTdtP8cD9i6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/ThhSRujTdtP8cD9i6)
After going to my exhaust guy explaining that the car isn't mobile to bring it to him. He said have you every used donuts?
Pic 1 are all the pieces necessary to make an exhaust system. The round things are donuts. What an awesome idea. Cut an angle you want.
Pic2 and 3 are the exhaust coming together. A tedious job of cutting, placing, tack welding, removing and welding. 1 joint at a time.
Pic 4 is a virtually new muffler I had left over from another Eureka. So waste not - I had to make a sleeve for it though as the inlet was 3mm too small.
5 Finished. Although hard to see as it is all tucked up neatly on the motor.
6 was my rebuilt radiator which is now installed and piped. No leaks!
Test fitting the seats in 7.
As there is practically nowhere to tow or pull this car onto a trailer, pic 8 shows a tow arm and removable eye bolt I made.
This bolts onto the H beam and tucks under the front tub. The eye bolt can be screwed into a hole behind the number place.
I spoke earlier about using a mesh on the front of the ears. 8 is a finished product.
Pic 9 is the interior coming together.
Pic 10 is me finally working up the nerves to drill holes in the side of the car to fit the mirrors.

See ya
Peter

Hi Peter,

i have been very slack. But I will post this on FB if that is still a thing after the almighty AU government are finished lol.

Looking good by the way and as a  coincidence I saw 'donuts' on one of the car show on TV just a week ago.........looks like fun!!

BTW Jukebox is still rocking ;)

Long time since a post.
Not much work done on car I'm afraid.
Working most weekends now so not a lot of time for car work.
I squeezed in a little time to make new trailer ramps and re-wire the trailer.
2 years sitting idle left most of the wiring corroded and it needed new lights.
Added an electric winch so its easier to put the car on.
Leds should last a lot longer.
Toying with the idea if a laser to align the car but Aussie laser class rules make it hard to see in daylight and still be legal.
I could make a dash sensor to say left/right and center or
I could use my laser etcher head but I don't want to punch holes in the car.

Peter

Hi Pete,

should be registered by now........any news?  ;D

Shonko

Wow, what a lot of work you've done! Your machine can be put up for auction soon :)

I've looked at a few slides - it looks amazing. Where are you located? I'm looking for a good mechanic in Melbourne. Maybe you could help me.

I've looked at a few slides - it looks amazing. Where are you located? I'm looking for a good mechanic in Melbourne. Maybe you could help me.

Long way from Melbourne sorry. Up in Echuca.
I've been crook for a while so this one has taken a back seat.
Hope to finish it off when it gets a bit warmer.
Mostly happy with the project but there are things I'd like to do better.
Thanks
Peter

Yes, it's a long way from Melbourne to Echuca.
Hope your project is progressing.