The Purvis Eureka Forum

I'll try capture here the build of my car as it goes along.


This is the car as I was loading it up on the trailer the day it was coming home:
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/PA080341small.jpg)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/PA080339small.jpg)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j334/radekp81/PA080347.jpg)


The car's running on a 1968 IRS chassis, balljoint front end with discs up front and drums on the rear.  It's fitted with an EJ20 running EJ25 heads and Isuzu EJ20 inlet manifold.

After getting it home I started pulling it apart to try work out what bits I need to get.   Things that became obvious to begin with was one of the linak lifters needs repairing, the floor needs lowering, new seat rails (as the current ones were rusted and falling apart), engine needs an air filter (and possibly a rebuild since it's been running with NO AIR FILTER - WHO DOES THAT?!?).  Front left lower control (A) arm needs replacing and all the shockers need replacing as its currently fitted with the air adjustable suspension (NG for handling).  Also the body needs some light fibreglass repairs and a full respray.  Also tyres were basically slicks.  Handbrake lever was also cracked, plus the position of the gear lever and handbrake really needs to change.


...soooo the shopping and todo list grew:
- fibreglass
- paint, primer etc..
- new suspension
- new exhaust
- air filter
- redo wiring (working at a wiring harness company comes in handy for this one) and put in a nice fuse and relay box
- brace engine/gearbox better
- change rear brakes to discs
- lower floor pans
- new seat rails
- new handbrake lever
- repair roof lifters
- change the headlights to be more modern
- change mirrors to electric
- change rear taillights to be more modern
- change radio antenna to one that doesn't deform under a car cover
- change front hubs to 5-stud
- change the rims and tyres to something more modern and cleaner
- strip and retrim the interior
- reshape the dash
- create a centre console
- change the seatbelts to retractable
- replace side perspex windows
- replace front perspex headlight covers
- change boot and bonnet release to be in-car accessible
- change fuel filler cap and neck to be integrated into the body
- change the side indicators to something more modern.
- waterpump was rusted and ceased
- missing thermostat
- timing belt tensioners are not far off ceasing
 .... and anything else that comes up as I go along.



Since I'm still finishing off construction of the shed and still have to finish painting parts of the outside of the house for now I'll focus on keeping an eye out for bits and pieces for the build (which'll mean I can progress it quite quickly once I have the time to really get stuck into it).

I'll keep this post updated - first step: Acquiring parts.

LOL!
         Your to-do list reads like most new project reeks! Be thankful you have a decent base car to work with. You work in a wiring place? Be sure to show me the fuse box you end up useing please.

     Simon

Hi Simon,
Yeah I work at Sumitomo Wiring Systems (though I'm in the electronics dept [software eng] rather than wiring).  Anyway I managed to find a small fuse box (not sure what car it was intended for), plus a couple relay holders and enclosures (again not sure what car, most likely Falcon or Territory), while my brother also had a spare soarer fuse/relay box laying around.  I'm just trying to decide what'll fit best and have the cleanest and most manageable finish.

Here's a few pics of what I'll end up using:

(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j334/radekp81/Eureka%20wiring/PC300554-Copy.jpg)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j334/radekp81/Eureka%20wiring/PC300553-Copy.jpg)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j334/radekp81/Eureka%20wiring/PC300552-Copy.jpg)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j334/radekp81/Eureka%20wiring/PC300550-Copy.jpg)

Radek.

Good stuff mate,
                         You're basically doing the same thing as I do: find a suitable fuse box out of a production car. However I don't use the relay boxes as the wiring for a lot of the relays used is not the standard configuration and a stuff-around when wiring. And come replacement time they can be expensive. I just string together a set of relay "seats" which are available at most auto shops and use standard configuration relays off the shelf.

Now where, pray tell, are you going to mount your fuse box?

     Simon

Yep, the company I work for only manufactures OEM parts so scouring through the scrap bin will mean any fuse box I find will come from a car of one description or another.  If I go with the soarer box then it'll go under the front bonnet next to the battery.  If I go with the small fuse box and small relay boxes then I'll probably try hide them in the cabin under the dash.  I'd prefer to keep everything looking as clean as possible which sways me towards the the second option.

 :-\ :-\ Just a note Simon ect are correct use doner parts but understand a switch can convey positive and negative current to the fuses and or relays, pic's displayed indicate a front wheel drive vehicle, to use less copper wire saving money car producers decided to Earth linkage most switches in a front-wheel drive car as a light wire carrying a negative current could activate the same Relay. Purchase a good multimeter and read the instructions Ref: Ohms impedance. All the Best. 

Hi Dave,
             I think you might misunderstand mate. I freaking love electrics. It's both relaxing and stimulating for me because it's black or white: it either works or it doesn't. I happily rewire entire reeks quite often. And then make it look good: check out behind the dash on Bill's reek.

Electrics is the best part of building reeks for me.

     Simon

Yeah likewise, I work on electronics for automotive OEM use (software engineering for things like instrument clusters, powertrain interface modules, CAN gateways and infotainment units) so the shed has a couple good multimeters and a 4-channel digital oscilloscope which gets regular use.  Re-wiring the Eureka's a bit fiddly to get things hidden and neat but electrically straight forward (though the wiring engineers at work are great at giving a few pointers for best practices in terms of mechanical layout). 

The relay/fuse box is from a rear wheel drive car (the big one which you are referring to is from a Soarer, the smaller ones from a Falcon or Territory).  I'm enjoying the re-wiring but I think I'll enjoy re-trimming the interior and working on the mechanicals and body repair and paint more as it lets me use more differing skills than what I do for a living (probably why Simon loves the electrics - a change from mechanical?).

Okay the list of purchases are growing, should be able to kick it off quite quickly once I'm done with the house... If anyone wants to see pics or more details on anything then let me know (else it'd take me a while to photograph each part).

Stuff at home and ready to go include:

- electric mirrors (diablo-style) from US
- New seat rails from EMAustralia
- Noreca sports cars headlight housing
- 5" round headlight
- 3" angle-eye halo driving light
- 20m2 of automotive grade leather from ItaliaCuoi (if anyone is re-trimming their car then do yourself a favour and look into getting it from here - they are local and their prices for auto leather are about the same as most places sell auto-vinyl!!!)
- Autotechnica steering wheel
- Autotechnica handbrake cover
- Waterpump
- Thermostat
- A heap of fibreglass and resins
- Stainless rear muffler
- Ford Capri Clubsport rear lights (the round Ferrari style lights)
- Pod air filter with carbonfibre enclosure
- Reversing lights
- Reflectors for rear bar
- Electric mirror switch
- BMW-style fin antenna
- Wiring, connectors, fuse and relay box

Stuff ordered but yet to arrive
- Copper orange candy (for paint)
- Gold pearl (for paint)
- Rear blank disc conversion kit
- Front blank rotors
- KYB shocks
- Reversing camera
- Honda CBR aero-style fuel filler cap
- BMW E46 style side indicators
- Lifter is in at Linak for repair

Still a few more things to get...

Can't wait to put it all together!

An update on progress -  I've been spending the last month or so re-wiring the car.  The wiring's as good as done (well the wires are in place, the finishing touches/tidying-up is still to come once I re-fit the dash).  It just looks like a mess at the moment...

I spent today making up some new brackets for the new roof lifters.  I was originally happy with my purchase, having ordered a set if SPAL IEI 8" lifters with remote control, adjustable limits and current limiting.  Well after finally giving them a go this evening it became pretty obvious that they have absolutely no chance of lifting the canopy.  All I get is "click" as the current limit kicks in...  >:(      110N lifting force just doesn't cut it (for some reason I thought they were rated at 110kg of force, not newtons dammit!).

The roof's up in the pic - but that's with the aid of my back lifting it while I press the buttons to raise it (my back actually did most of the work).   Time to find a stronger lifter!  Hmmm I see a place in Campbellfield (a stones throw away from me) sells lifters that apply 6000N of force... I'm pretty sure they should lift the roof just fine.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_0271small.jpg)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_0269small.jpg)

Mate, did you end up getting your old Linaks repaired? I'm not pushing you to get Linak, get what you want, but if they're the LA30 range (http://www.linak.com.au/products/Linear-Actuators.aspx?product=LA30), with the 12s (strong) motor, they're rated at 6,000 n.

Hope you get it sorted.

 :)

No in the end I didn't - I sent them in for repair but not only was the nylon gear worn but the motor had a burnt out coil too.  Since it was still spinning when I applied 12V I thought at least the motor was alright, but doesn't mean just some of the coils hadn't shorted (which seems to have been the case).  So basically the lifter was a throw-away.    :(

...oh the strength of the linak was evident as the canopy arm it connected to was bent by what I can only deduct was due to the lifter being left on in the "closing" position (which would have also caused its unfortunate death)  :o
It took a bit of heat and force to straighten it back into shape.

 

Ah, that's a damn shame. Good luck searching for replacements.

 ;)

I've put wiring and roof lifters to the side for the moment and have started working on the bodywork.  First step is to update the look of the back of the car, bringing it from the 80's into perhaps a decade ago.


So plan for the back is to redo the rear bumper, adding some vents towards the bottom, smoothing off the rest with fibreglass and having the usual indentation for the numberplate.  Car of inspiration is ~2000 model corvette.  Rear lights are from a Ford Capri Clubsprint.

Here's the bumper after a bit of shaping and filling with good old space invader to give me a base to work with for the fibreglass.  Also I'm holding the lights in place to get a better idea of what it'll look like in the end.


(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/20120420_232126_small.jpg)

So since last update I've been working a bit more on the body, but to break things up a bit I like to jump around onto other tasks.  So now the new electric roof lifters are in and working well (though they are a little on the slow side, taking roughly 30 seconds to fully open/close).

Additionally I've made a start on the floor pans, with the sheet metal cut out and ready to be taken to a metal fabricator so they can bend it to shape for me.

And finally I purchased as set of old wheels from Brenden which I'm in the middle of restoring. 

Below are two images after alot of grinding with a wire wheel. 

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/wheels3_small.jpg)


The centre's additionally been sanded with progressively finer paper and then polished with good 'ol Brasso at the end.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/wheels4_small.jpg)

 

Just a quick update, so since the last update the following is done:

- lowered floor pans
- made new seat mounts to angle seat backwards a bit
- relocated the gear lever back 170mm and shortened handbrake
- changed bushing on gear selector
- installed borgwarner? transmission brace
- installed new headlights and made adjustable brackets for each
- installed new front fender indicators
- installed new roof lifters
- began installing new indicators in front bumper (WIP)
- fixed the frontal area sag
- made new battery tray and associated bracing
- installed horns

... And a few other bits and pieces.

Still have alot to go but at least some of the bigger tasks are behind me.

Anyway I thought others might find the progress on the front of interest:

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/815DC3DE-1FD5-429F-BC31-4B63479E0655-7356-00000EEB6E834BFC.jpg)

I'm happy with the way the lights have helped update the look of the car.  The headlight surrounding is from noreca sports cars in case anyone's wondering.

Radek

Those headlight surrounds look better there than in the photos on the Noreca site. Maybe because on yours they're still in primer and we can see them better. And I like the indicators on the very front. I plan to do something similar one day.

Thanks cyco, the very front indicators are off a mk2 golf. A new set's only around 30bux delivered off eBay from hong kong. The front side indicators are BMW m3 items from memory.

Mind if I repost that photo over on the Euro-Nova site?

 :)

Not a problem, feel free to post it elsewhere. Thanks for checking by the way.

I did that once, didn't ask. My bad. I'm sure they'd be interested in a better look at these headlight pods.

 ;)

I haven't updated this with any pics for a while so just a quick update:

- Engine is now running and all mechanical, suspension and brake work is done (...and mostly new)

- All body mods and spraying the body is out of the way
http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/radekp81/vehicles/89368/photos/5575113

http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/radekp81/vehicles/89368/photos/5599660
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/image_zps426e34d9.jpg)

- Began trying my hand at upholstery.  So far front seats, steering column cover and a few other pieces are done.

http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/radekp81/vehicles/89368/photos/5599632

On the home stretch now!  Yes I know I need to put the pics in the eureka photobucket account instead  :-[

Such a pretty colour. Mine was going to end up in that one day.

That Holden Tiger Mica? It's looking good now. But I'm interested in your rear seats.    :P

Thanks guys.  Kinda looks like the tiger mica in the pics but it looks a bit different in the sun.  It's actually a candy orange.  I sprayed a metallic silver base, followed by a mixture of alsa candy mandarine orange and paint with pearl bright orange candy, followed by a gold ghost pearl and clear...

Awesome colour, coming along very nicely. Did you have any problems getting the engine going?

Cheers Shane

Luckily no.  I had to change a fair few things such as water pump, timing belt etc but nothing internal.  Only thing that really prevented it from cranking over from the word go was that the fuel had gone off to the point that it had left a gummy residue inside the fuel pump and the injectors, ceasing them all.  A good flush of the injectors and a new fuel pump fixed that.   Still to actually run the engine for some time, but starting and idling for a few minutes things seemed good and no smoke.

Love the headlights
Did make a mould?
Be interested if you did

Very cool colour.
Reminds me of one of the DNA candies

Peter

The headlight boxes are from the Moon-Ace GT (http://norecasportscar.com/model_moon_ace_gt.html) from Malaysia.

Yep as Richard mentioned I just ordered the headlight surrounds from Noreca's Moon-Ace GT.  I found my old emails so for those interested I ordered them a bit over a year ago for  USD $200 + USD $150 for shipping to give you an idea of approx. cost (it may have changed).  I'm really happy with them and they fitted perfectly in place.

Oddly enough, I can't see that photo of the Moon-Ace GT headlight pods on your car any more.

fixed.

Quick update, car is getting closer and I am about half way through the interior (the harder half thankfully). Invested in an old industrial sewing machine off eBay and spent some time reading upholstery books. my work's not going to win awards but i'm having fun.  So far seats and dash are done, so is steering wheel, hand brake, rear window tunnel, Side arm rests on canopy and side door pockets.

I'll post a pic of the interior once fully done, but for now here's a quick one of the seats and dash (http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/image_zps15a61e57.jpg)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/image_zps3cb578cf.jpg)

Hi Radek,

It is hard to tell what type of material that is in the photos. What is it and where did you get it from?

Also I won't be the last person to tell you the light coloured dash with reflect on your windscreen while you're driving..........but if it is an issue for you when you are finished I am sure you can sort it.

Interesting to watch your build, thanks for sharing. Well done!  :)

Regards
Shonko

The original gloss black vinyl was pretty bad on reflections, hopefully being matt finish it'll be a bit better - time will tell. I might have to wear Polarised glasses to see past the glare, or yeah come up with a solution. I am using leather for everything. Found a great place to buy it from too - italia cuoi in dandenong are of Melbourne.  They supply commonly to the oem's and I paid less for good auto-grade leather from them than what I could find auto-grade vinyl from other places! 

Wow, that's a great first effort!!  :)

italia cuoi, that's good to know thanks

Finally started on the outside assembly.  Another few nights and at least from the outside it'll be complete.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_20130305_214358_zps1c27cf35.jpg)

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_20130304_192838_zps8392036f.jpg)

Hi,

Looks very nice, what is the colour

Thanks.  Colour's an orange candy - metallic silver base, followed by a mixture of alsa candy mandarine orange and paint with pearl bright orange candy, followed by a gold ghost pearl and clear.  When it's fully assembled from the outside I'll roll it out into the sun and take some pics to show the effect.

Looking very smooth......got that dash in yet?

Its in there, but missing some bits still - buttons, dials etc.  Will post that up in the next week or so.

Looking very Mickey Mouse!

 ;D

A bit of an update.

So I completed the build a couple months back but since the car is a kit car, VicRoads requires the car to be re-engineered if the rego is not current.  Anyway since I have to go through the engineering process and since the EJ20 that was in it needed a rebuild, I've been building the car up in the way I intended a few years down the track.

Here's the car's interior when it was all done (now in pieces to wire-in the new motor)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1629_zps04edd0ec.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1629_zps04edd0ec.jpg.html)

...and the car visually complete:
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1546_zps3f75d130.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1546_zps3f75d130.jpg.html)


After those pics I've pulled the car apart again, pulled out the transaxle, motor, engine loom, ECU, disc brakes and wheel hubs and began the next stage of the build.

I ended up ordering in wheel hubs and calipers off a 944 from the US, together with new rotors.
After a bit of fabricating (mostly for the e-brake) here's the rear brakes on and complete:

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1760_zpsf03c5c60.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1760_zpsf03c5c60.jpg.html)

... and here's the fronts dummy fitted (I still have to do a fair bit of work to get the fronts on)

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1759_zpse9a40370.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1759_zpse9a40370.jpg.html)


The next fun part of the build is the engine and gearbox.  I ended up buying an un-finished project car, but since the whole thing wouldn't fit on my trailer we cut it in half and took the bits of value.


(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1718_zps708ac8ea.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1718_zps708ac8ea.jpg.html)

It's a 1995 model WRX STI.

To make use of the STI gearbox I've gone the Subarugears route.

Here's the original pinion with the gears removed, sitting next to the new reversed pinion.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1790_zps44bbdbac.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1790_zps44bbdbac.jpg.html)

and here it is just before putting it all back together

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1795_zps7e1fd9db.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1795_zps7e1fd9db.jpg.html)


Oh and since I am no longer using the VW stud pattern, I had to change the wheels too.  Shame as I did like the Neale wheels, but anyway ended up getting a set of rims off a 944 and spent some time stripping, sanding and polishing them.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1793_zpsbf37ea02.jpg) (http://s480.photobucket.com/user/eurekacarclub/media/Member%20Rides/Radeks%20Project/IMG_1793_zpsbf37ea02.jpg.html)


Apart from that I also up-rated the rear torsion bars to 28mm, changed every bush in the rear to urethane and installed a set of adjustable spring plates.  With the STI motor pushing things along I guess I just want to tighten things up where possible.


Now to finish the front brakes, change all the front bushings to urethane, install the engine and gearbox, wiring loom, ecu, brake master cylinder, hydraulic clutch, side intrusion bars and it'll be done...

Wow, that's awesome. It's coming to the meet, right? 

 ;) ;D

For sure next year!  I really wanted to make it this year and will still see how I go. 

We are expecting our first-born roughly 4 weeks after the meet so it might be getting a bit close for me to travel that far away from my wife. 

Take you wife with you........to my knowledge we haven't had a baby born in a Reek yet  :o :o :o

Hehe, I'll run your suggestion by her..

Hi All,

In an attempt to try capture the build and hopefully help share what I learnt through the build experience with others I've began a blog.

http://radekseureka.blogspot.com.au/

My aim is to try capture what I did and how I did it and hopefully others find it useful, so if there's anything that you'd like more info, pictures or details on then leave a comment on the blog and I'll update the pages or incorporate it into future blog posts.

I have only just started writing it so between work and family it'll be a gradual write-up but I aim to put up a new entry every few days until the full build is written up.

Cheers,
Radek.

Very nice

Good stuff!!

Hey, been meaning to ask you, what did you do with the Isuzu manifold? I'd heard there was one by Isuzu that would fit the EA series of engine. I'm wondering if that one (which is obviously for the EJ), would fit the EA.

It's just sitting there in my garage so it's available :)

Ah, good stuff. I call dibs! lol But first I'll have to work out if it will fit my ea82t. I had read somewhere that there was a Suzuki version of the Scooby engines with a different intake manifold, but for the EA and not the EJ. I'll be hitting up the internets for more info.

 :D ;D

Sure CyCo, all yours if it's suitable.