The Purvis Eureka Forum

Guys,

I have to realise, i'm never going to get time to enjoy this car as I should, so maybe someone else can!

She's a Sport model with 13B Rotary, Hydro electric roof, F4 visor.

I've recently had the 4 barrel Carby fully re-conditioned, before that it ran well with a small fuel leak (that's why I got it re-coed)

Previously registered in Victoria - still has rego plates attached.

Pretty reasonable paint job, now black, looks like it was originally Blue.

Was told it should fetch at least $8,000.
Not too sure if that is true, but can't see it being worth $10,000.

Happy to negotiate with enthusiast :)

CyCo,

thanks for trying to help....I was going to wash off the dust and post up pics so it looks more presentable  :)

mate worth min $8000 13B looks good . i sold one 1 to 2 years ago with 12A needing full resto quick sale $4200 lasted week and a half ad on this site good luck with your sale

No problem, feel free to upload additional photos, and I'll remove these ones from my post if you like.  ;)

Thanks for the replies.

Not chasing top dollar, more keen to see it go to a good home to preserve this era of Aussie motoring.
Of course, $$ are nice  :D

Cyco, perhaps leave them up until I get my act together...Thanks

Have been asked by a couple of people what is required on the Eureka, so I'll post the reply here as well.

Also forgot that I bought a brand new electric fuel pump for it as well ($300)

As mentioned in the ad, the carby is off the motor as it was fully re-coed ($800), so that needs to be re-installed. Probably an hour or so work.

It does need a wash :)

I'm 6'4" and have laid the seat right back so my head doesn't hit the roof, this is easily changed back though.
The issue with that is that I have made a spacer for the steering wheel so my arms can reach, but hadn't got around to extending the gear lever. The gear lever has been removed and i have all the bits, but does need to go back in. Probably another hour or so work. (I was going to fit it with a quick shift lever, then lengthen it so the travel would have been the same)

Needs a new battery.

The accelerator pedal needs to be put back, although you dont really need it. If you know VW's the accelerator has a roller on the lever that attaches to the pedal and this roller will just as well roll up/down your shoe.

The engine runs really well with no smoke (great for a rotary).
The guy I bought it off told me it had been rebuilt and extend ported. (I cannot confirm this)
I used to have an RX4 in my youth, that was extendported for the primaries and bridgeported for the secondaries.
The extendport is an increase in port sizing to give more hp, but without the crazy idle you get from a bridgeported rotary.

The carpet is getting a little tatty, but nothing that needs to be changed immediately.

Driver's side perspex needs to be refitted (10-15minutes, max)

Roof works really great, button on dash gives you up/down also via a remote on a key chain.

You could easily fix all of these on a Saturday, then drive it all day Sunday :)

I have the last number plates there were on the car as well as the sale receipt from the car yard it was in, showing the sale to me.

The rego sticker shows it as a 1972 Purvis Roadster.

Wow, always wondered what happened to that one - I have pics from the net from when it was all 'new'.
Good luck with your sale.

Really!!  Would love to see them.

Any chance you can pm them to me?

Guys,

was a little out on the time estimates.

Re-installed carby, fitted accelerator pedal in under 60 minutes  :)

Starts first time and purrs like a kitten - makes me have 2nd thoughts about selling  :(

Also washed it in the rain??

Hey, no need to sell it dude if you don't want to. And I've washed cars in the rain before. Wish it would rain right now, it's sooo bloody hot here.

I think I'd really like to keep it, but you know the drill - too many cars, not enough excuses to satisfy the wife. ;)

Ive got photos of this car when it was for sale at "Market Place Carsales" in Bendigo, I was looking at buying it then, so had a mechanic go over it for me prior to the purchase, he told me the front end was in need of attention, I drove it home, and it danced all over the road, so he was right. Also the dropped floorpan under the drivers seat was done by a "Butcher" just a box section under the seat made up of very thin tin and rivited together, because of this I was told it would need fixing properly, and an engineers certificate re-done prior to registration.
It does have some rather nice wheels on it, which is what made it stand out.
The interior and body were in rather good condition, as I think the paint was rather fresh back then, the red "everything" interior didnt grab me, but it could be a tidy up job without too much cost or effort.
The asking price back then was $6,500, and the guy offered it to me "as is" for $6,000.
I went back several weeks later to make him a lower offer, and it was gone!

Would be interested in finding out where you are now with this car.

Thanks
Stuart

Guys,

Pics as promised:
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/side2.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/side.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/rearopen.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/rear2.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/rear-1.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/front3-4-2.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/front3-4.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/front2.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/front-1.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii150/puzzigully/sideopen.jpg)

Cyco - perhaps you could remove the old dusty pics please?  Thanks for the help :)

Guys,

I'll leave this on here until the end of the week, if no sale by then, I'll put it on Carsales for $11,000 (I think) expecting to get negotiated down a bit.
So there is a benefit to being a member of the web page. :D

Older photos removed at request.

Looks great when washed.   :P

Interesting hinge covers, only one I've seen with those.

Fantastic Looking Car.
I'm interested in becoming part of the Eureka family... i've sent you an email.

Hey hey!
I'm super keen for some info and discussions!

will be in touch as soon as i figure out how... >_<
pls dont put on carsales yet!  :-D

Hey good luck selling the car, it looks great...  Come on SA buyers, follow the Bat and get em over here.... 

I'm not allowed any more (if she finds out that is) but there must me someone in SA that wants another one, Phil ?????

StReek

Guys,

had a serious offer (at least I think it was serious :)).

Feel like $10K is a pretty good deal for a Eureka of this std with the options it has.

The tyres have plenty of tread - easily roadworthy, probably done very few km's

I see the SA boys are keen - haven't any interest from there yet, but Vic, Tas and WA seem keen  ;D

My Offer was serious... :)
I'm in Echuca at the moment... willing to do a Deposit and pickup tomorrow (Friday)

Car is SOLD.

hope new owner enjoys  :)

Hey Dennis_B, CONGRATULATIONS I know how you are feeling about your latest acquisition, feels great hey. Pity it's not coming to SA. Ha Ha. Well done!  ;D

The Bat: Thanks for that mate... just working through getting it up and running again now... With a bit more throttle we are seeing some Smoke which is a bit of a concern RE: Apex Seals ete... Gear Shift seems quite "stuck"... looking into Clutch ete at the moment...

Will report back once we know more :)

Good stuff, keep us posted.

Well we've got a fairly massive Blue Smoke problem coming out of the Rotary at the moment....
puzzigully is adament that it's never blown smoke under his ownership, and that it ran for 15 minutes before I collected it with no smoke at all.

I guess what I'm trying to determine is what could happen whilst in transit on a trailer that could change this.
Any Rotary experts around?

hi dennis-b, rotarys can be a little fickle when they have a bit of age on them. did you change the oil? did you refill with 20/50 as they dont like thin oil. is the oil injector pump still connected and adjusted right(1mm gap at idle), most of the hoons here remove it and premix 2stroke oil 100 to 150 to one. If its old the oil control back up seals (o/rings) go hard which lets oil past control ring(oil rings). i have just resealed my 79 rx7 with all new soft seals for $70 from TRANSEALS . no more smoke now unless i have a weak battery that wont crank fast enough (hard start) then it will puff for a bit (30 secs).
check out AUSROTARY.COM and a guy username BUMPSTART engine rebuilding. mazda parts are dam dear but can be had singulary if need be. full rebuild kit on ebay about $1400 from memory. if after full warm up it still smokes you could try some sort of seal softener (stop leak). if it starts good cold and hot but still smokes soft seals may be needed.  stick with it as when sorted they are lots of smooth fun, but they dont like to be run to hot or lean. easy warm up and cool down cycles are the trick to long life of a wankel.(original oil cooler is a must)   give it a good long run first before anything! hope this titbit of info is of some help to some one hey.

shipy59:
Thanks for the information. I don't believe the Oil has been changed or added to as yet... I might need to confirm what oil was used. The Oil Injector Pump doesn't seem to operate at idle per se... only when higher revs kick in it adds more oil (which is to be expected).

I'm begginning to think that my symptoms of Not much smoke Cold, but lots and lots of smoke when warm/heated up it may just be those Oil Ring Seals.
I'll complete a compression test tomorrow and see what I find out.

That sounds like a sticky/stuck apex seal to me.
                                                                      Yes it can be a result of under feeding via the oil injector and also possibly using the wrong oil, but sometimes it just happens on older rotories too. Susie turned the RX3 off one day and started it up a few days later with a stuck seal. It cleared itself a couple of minutes later but gave us both heart palipitations in the mean time. We rang George from Pac Performance who said the same. It sometimes happens.

George also had me set the injector permanently 1/4 open for general street use. We've done probably 100k with it set this way with minimal smoke and absolutely no problems. He frowns on us using Penrite and recommends Castrol (he would, he's sponsored by them) but you can't go wrong using the recommended Mazda product.

Lets see what your compression test says.

     Simon

My Compression Test had Pulses of 85-90psi on 1 of the Chambers... 50psi on the other two.
This was undertaken with a Normal Comp Tester reading the Pulses on the cylinders as per the guide at http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec98/techtips.htm

As such we've pretty much come to the conclusion that the Apex Seals ete are stuffed and the Engine will require a rebuild.
(Which is pretty big $$$$ - $5000 or so I'm told)

Anyhow we've found a supposedly good recently rebuilt engine in the local area which we can hear and see running for significantly less than rebuild cost, so we'll see how we go on Monday regarding that.

We've run the motor at idle and at revs for probably an hour or so + now, can't drive it because the Clutch is Seized/Defective (anyone see that on the For Sale Description???)

Anyhow it's a "live and learn" exercise I guess... when it's fixed it'll be good... but I guess I shoudn't take Club Members/Forum Sellers at face value as much.

Was the gear lever installed when you picked up the car? If all the bits were there it would not have taken much for the owner to throw it back on. The fact that he has taken the time to re-fit the accelarator pedal which was not nessecary, but not the gear lever which would have been just as easy to fit and actually made the car drivable suggests that he may have intentionally left it off to hide the siezed/defective clutch.

The seller doesn't have many posts to his name, not sure how long he's been a member, he may have just joined up to sell the car. Unfortunately forum member or not you really can't trust anyone at face value, especially when you're parting with such a large amount of cash.

only the seller knows whether or not he knew what was wrong with it prior to the deal, at the end of the day his conscience will be his biggest enemy. and if he did know about it he will probably end up getting bitten later on in life so dont stress buddy, yes you have lost a lot of money, but just think, now you have all the reasons to build an absolute weapon of a eureka! plus you can do it all the way YOU want to. keep your chin up mate. a similar sort of issue happened a little while ago "gunna" he bought it found a whole heap wrong with it then lost hope. you have a piece of aussie history, if its really what you want then you should keep it and work through the problems until its a sound machine. unfortunately my circumstances have changed and i need the space, but now that you have yours make sure you keep at it, they are all unique.

keep your head up dennis,

trev

As I see it you're in front

You have a EUREKA    ;D

Hi

  You can get a inport 13b turbo for about $1600. Have been told you can put a carby on then and they will work ok. May be a cheaper option.

Dennis sorry to hear about your engine issues but agree with others that you'll be very happy once things are sorted and at least you'll know exactly what you've got.  I bought a 13B Turbo Rotary with a view to replacing my VW engine. Now I'm sticking with the VW engine as I like the simplicity and have 2 VW engines, plus don't want the hassle of cooling.
I took photos of the 13B last weekend with some other bits and pieces so I can raise cash for a CB750 Honda restoration. Not sure where you are located but I'll put the following here in case you or anyone else is interested before it goes on eBay.
First up: I know nothing about Rotarys. A mate who manages a Repco store arranged for us both to get a 13B Turbo half cut ex-Japan about two years ago from his mate who imports them. Mine has sat in the shed for two years. I turned it over by hand for the first 6 mths and then just left it. No idea what it's like inside though he reckoned they'd both done around 40k's. My mechanic reckons it would most likely need the seals done and I was quoted $1500 by the Rotary specialist he recommended in Melbourne. I paid $1500 for it and hope to recoup as much of that as I can but am open to offers.
Also advertising my wheels - they're the blue ones on my black Eureka on Photobucket. New tyres on the 15 x 8" fronts and the rubber is hard but plenty of tread on the 15 x 10" rears. I think I paid $1200 for the wheels when I bought them from Simon and again hope to get as much of it back as I can. 4 stud so fairly rare and probably suit Baja or Beetle Custom buyers as well. Either way good luck. Regards, Slug.

Hey Guys,
I've picked up a recently rebuilt 13B Turbo (With No Turbo - Just Weber Carby) from a Rotary Experts in Melbourne.
That's getting fitted tomorrow (Wednesday).

Excellent Compression and No Smoke is too good to pass up :)

Engine is now fitted, bit of a race against time at the moment to get it ready for the Yea Show and Shine on Sunday....