The Purvis Eureka Forum

Since the old forum was removed, we really lost track of all eureka owners. So I think here we should do fine.  ;D Most info I have copied over for some other places where I have show off our eureka (Such as: FinalGear) as not much has changed.
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This is my dads and myself project this was brought in 2007 $3000 with a damaged motor (Mitsubishi Galant) and have been working on it ever since. It had a rusted out floor pan the engine cover was missing so rain soaked it all the way through. It sits on a VW 1600 chassis. It was parked 2 houses down from my place and was seen in tall grass never moved about 3 years before.

Engine Status:

VW 1600 chassis
Alfa Romeo 44 Cloverleaf
AlfaSud adapter plate
Gas shocks suspension
Machined front brake disks
(Original) Brake drums on the rear
Holden Commodore radiator
Modified fuel tank
1 main battery
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Body Status:

Colour: Electric Blue (Ford BA XR8 Blue)
Custom hood
Modifyed boot scoop
Modifyed rear bumper
New front windscreen
Custom made side window frames
Custom made Front bumper air flow metal plate
Front bumper metal scratch plate
Floor pan has been lowered
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Interior Status:
Vinyl/padded dashboard
Calibre Gauge - Volt
Calibre Gauge - Oil Pressure
Calibre Gauge - Water Temp
Black Carpet interior
Custom sports steering wheel
Sony XS-GTF1625B Speakers (190W)
Sony CDX-GT27 CD player/Radio
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Tour around the 'old' eureka..[Youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VsyPdlsQUA
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*5/02/2010*

(http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/8642/1001197s.jpg)
(http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1115/1001200.jpg)
(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/7154/1001193r.jpg)
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5586/1001192.jpg)
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/5526/1001164x.jpg)
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/479/1001204a.jpg)
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/2883/1001198m.jpg)


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(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1001385.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1001385.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/picture001.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/picture001.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/p4230055.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/p4230055.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/movie0055.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/movie0055.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1001416.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1001416.jpg)
(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1000603.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1000603.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1000604.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1000604.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1000605.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1000605.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1000606.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1000606.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1000607.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1000607.jpg)
(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/1000602.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/1000602.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/p6240028.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/p6240028.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/p7010002.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/p7010002.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/p7010003.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/p7010003.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/pi.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/pi.jpg)
(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/img0951.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/img0951.jpg)(http://imgboot.com/thumbs/tool831/img0998.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/images/tool831/img0998.jpg)
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If anything is wrong with posting images or such please let me know.

What a beautiful car!!

Rock

Well done Allan,
                            That's an excellent example. Now we have to get you to Mildura...

     Simon

I remember you and your 'reek Allen. Great to see you made it to these forums. Nothing wrong in posting photos!!! Hope to see more of your top 'reek. 


 ;D

New Images for 2011 posted.

My dad (Allan) is working away at Murrin Murrin mine, I am posting on behalf of him. He got new tail lights for Christmas, these lights he has been wanting for quite sometime now. I believe $200 each if im not mistaken. The roof issue dad and myself posted about is now fixed its now only small stuff to finish off.

New photos look great. Those tail lights are near perfect! 

One of the better 'reeks out there on the blacktop.


 ;D

one word ... awsomme. 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

Cheers for all the support guys.  :P

Here is a new batch of photos taken only yesterday. (Since its 2am right now)

If I could remember my Youtube details, I would of uploaded a video of the engine running.

Hey all,

It has surely been awhile since logged in here. I have fresh new images from today (13/7/12).  The Eureka is finished.

We attempted to get it licensed today, failed.. According to WA licensing center; we need a engineer to look through it all as a "New car" They cannot locate any previous registration from the old number plates; which suit the chassis number, Allan (dad) needs to fill out a form to get it onto the ADR? datebase, including get a engineer report and we failed the 100MM rule.  >:(

(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6554/17045810150961953858740.jpg)
*The owner of the Eureka*... Allan (aka: Dad)  :P
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1185/18104410150880912908740.jpg)
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/6833/img0338ta.jpg)
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/623/img0342snq.jpg)

Great to see you're still posting here, even if it's only once in a blue moon (or Eureka). ;)

Shame about the failed rego attempt though. There are rougher 'reeks on the roads all legal and everything, including mine!! Do you have the previous rego papers? Even if they're from another state, they should help. Or maybe try contacting the previous owner (if at all possible) to see if he has any other paperwork he forgot to hand over or found after you bought it. Or, try finding another engineer that's Eureka friendly, and have another go.

Where abouts did you fail the 100mm rule?

You're almost there, don't give up!

100mm rule was the ride height, Exhaust and the torsion bar were too low.

We have no rego papers, only a number plates that existed on the car. WA's licensing center cannot find anywhere in AUS that has been registered. We called previous owner nothing we left with nothing of previous rego. We were given a list of engineers that we can go to; unfortunately if its not on the list of places we cannot go there.


What's funny is we were talking to Mary Skopalj, learned today its a F4 not a PL30.  whistle

Could indeed be a PL30.

Hmm the torsion bar is too low? You can adjust the torsion bar assembly to get the rear end to be higher or lower. It's a tough job and can be potentially dangerous (spring steel under tension). But it can be done. A quick Google later (http://www.airheadparts.com/vw-rear-height-adjustment). How much did the torsion bar and exhaust miss the 100mm limit? Then adjust the torsion bar to be high enough to clear the limit, and assuming your exhaust is higher than the torsion bar (probably not though), then you'll be in the clear. Hopefully.

It's up to you if you leave it that way when it's passed the blue slip.

Torsion bar is just slightly lower then the exhaust. Not the whole bar but the mounting (Spacers etc)

Being a VW rear suspension, dropped down the spring plate releasing the rear axle and then taking the tension of the spring plate. Lowering it towards the ground takes the tension off the spring plate, taking it off the spline then jacked it in place; thus raising the back end to 125MM.


I should mention that we have strict licensing rules in WA, the Eureka needs to be placed under "light vehicle register" being Kitcar and only 700Kg; need engineer certificate then its ok to attempt to get it licensed.

Yeah, they're pretty draconian over here too. Sounds like you've got it sorted .Hopefully she'll be legal soon.

 ;D

Bigger rims, over-inflated tyres, stiffer springs,more pre-load will get you another couple of inches.

Hey Owen,

Give Dan Pitic a call, he is the engineer who certified my Eureka (adpitic at yahoo.com) home 93071436 mobile 0419932022. he has just recently completed my engineers report for my 52 Chevy pickup. He is a sensible practical person and believe me there are some interesting characters on the list of approved engineers.

Good Luck

Kym

Do you remember the cost it was for him to check it out?

Mine was a lot of work and it was $660 from memory.

Ah alright. Well we've decided to go with someone from the recommend list for engineers. $150 for them to come around and inspect/take photos etc.  All they said is they will only look at the motor due to it being non standard. (Since the rest is VW etc)

September 22nd is the date booked. :)  Hoping it will go through without issue's once that is done, go back to the pits with all the paper work later on and just continue on. Allan put the ride height back to the way it was, threw out gas shocks updated to spring shocks. (I believe slightly longer too) that just raised it to pass the 100MM rule. Thankfully its now just upto the engineer to do the report and then we head back to the pits.

Sounds good. Good luck!

 :)

Officially Licensed. :laugh:

*It's been 4 weeks I think since it's been licensed and forgot to inform all of you here, my mistake.

Dad is currently ironing out small issues, we have a slight heating issue but we believe to have fixed it. The thermostat for unknown reasons had silastic stuck in it. May of caused a blockage, not driven it since to see if this is fixed few other things but nothing major. 100kmh test engine runs smoothly.

Only driven it once since its been licensed and that was just a short 20min run, hoping while on holidays from tomorrow may take it out for a proper cruise.


(http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/59685_10151165804548740_551266109_n.jpg)

Congratulations!

Great looking example too, well done. Enjoy the cruising..........!!! ;D ;D ;D

Shonko

Awesome. Another one haunting the black top.

 ;D

very nice mate

Love the colour and the little touches you have done. Looks great.

Anthony

Really neat hope I see it on the road, I just got to pull the top bit of the bottom bit with my reek in the rebuild so have a long way to go before my Reek is on the road. Mine is already licensed so I will not have that problem. By my count when my reek is on the road that will make three reeks in Perth. 

Allan (Aka: Dad) needs some help.

We have a oil pressure problem and trying to solve it, Allan recently installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge to get accurate readings.

The situation: We start the Eureka when cold oil pressure is up, soon as the motor slowly heats up oil pressure slowly drops. We know this is not a oil pump problem and think it could be related to oil we are using. Just need opinions as we both want to get it right and nail it.


The Eureka AlfaSud's engine is currently using 20W/50 (Not synthetic) -  Alfa romeo's workshop manual recommends this.


We are guessing thicker oil is needed but i thought would post here just so we aren't swapping oils etc.  Anyone offer a theory or opinion?  :)

Can you give me some more details on the Alfasud engine? What series engine is it (ie, what year if possible), engine capacity, and any mods done to the engine. I'll ask one of the Alfa experts over on the EuroNova forum and see if they can give any pointers. 

 ;)

Not sure on exact details. Although this is just me, I will double check tomorrow since its 12AM right now.
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Just to try and get a idea: I will try and mention many thing's as I can.  :laugh:

Allan has been following a book that covers 1974 to 1976 Alfasud - The book covers all 4-Cylinder engine's from (Alfasud, Alfasud SE, Alfasud N, Alfasud L, Alfasud TI, Alfasud 5M) All at 1186cc.

I believe we have the Alfasud Ti motor (Alfasud Ti 1.5 flat-four engine) from myself researching it matches, I never saw the Alfa when the motor was ripped out from the wreckers. Dad may know.
**All specs for the Alfasud's can be found http://alfasud.alfisti.net/asch.html (http://alfasud.alfisti.net/asch.html)


No engine mods have been done, different radiator (Holden Commodore) and a Alfasud adapter plate onto VW gearbox and larger fuel tank. Just to mention those so you can pass it on if needed.  ;)

Passed on the message, just waiting on the reply. 

 ;)

Thank you. Do you have a link to the forum or topic post? Or was it done private message?  :D

I sent a PM, though I could have made a post as there are a couple of Alfa powered Novas over there. The link is in the useful links section, but for ease of use, it's Euro Nova (http://www.euro-nova.co.uk/).

 ;) ;D

I have a reply.


That last bit about aftermarket filters sounds worth looking into for you. 

Thanks CyCo.

Here is the results:

2 Hours idle - Timed

Weather condition was 36°C

Oil Pressure
Cold started at 70 PSI
Hot @ 15 PSI this was constant for 2 hours.

Water Temp
Interior Gauge - 200°F
Temp thermometer in the radiator  - 140°F   (60°C)

(http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/8099/oilgauge.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/546/oilgauge.jpg/)


By going on what Lauren said in that PM, I would say it is fine but if you could forward the result and double check would be appreciated.  :)

Passed the info on.

 ;)

Ok, here's the reply.


Sounds like it's all ok.

 :)

Sure does, cheers for that. We can relax now about that.  :laugh:


I personally (Myself - Owen) want to ask anyone who comes across this thread, any tips to increase interior air flow? Our eureka has air from two interior vents from the side but it's not enough.  Allan is starting to think crazy and considering to make it a targa top. I personally don't want him cutting the roof.
 
Any opinions? Or anyone done something to their Eureka to increase natural air.

Don't cut the roof. There isn't enough of them around, they're an endangered species!!

Aside from leaving the windows off, you're stuck with the vents. Most of our cars have two 'eye ball' vents at the corners of the dash, and that's about it. Some have additional vents in the side pockets.

I have an additional vent (another 'eye ball'), down in the footwell on the drivers side, behind the steering column. It is a pain to reach down and open/close it, but it certainly helps with additional air flow.

Make sure that the ducting you use doesn't have holes and is sealed around the back of the vent. It also helps if the ducting is nice and large and fairly straight. Obviously not going to be easy to do with these cars, but the more bends and kinks, it will slow the air flow down.

Another thing, if you're going to be leaving your windows on (due to wet weather for example), is to provide a way for the air coming into the cabin to leave the cabin. I know it may sound weird, but it's all fluid dynamics. You'll get better air flow through the cabin (via the vents), if you pop a window open a fraction.

One idea is to put vents on the rear of the cabin. On some older cars, there used to be a duct leading from a vent in the cabin, often on/under the parcel shelf, or in the 'c' pillar, that lead to the body work behind the rear bumper. There was another vent here, behind the bumper that operated like a 'one way' valve. If their was air flowing through the car and the windows were up, the vents would open to allow the air flow through the car and help keep people comfortable. These vents were actually a very simple construction, often just a basic vent with a rubber flap over the vent. No air flow, the vent was shut. When their was air flow, the air pressure of the air trying to escape would push the rubber flap open.

So it could be possible to take one or two of these vents, install them on the rear of the cabin, most likely from behind the rear cabin wall, to allow the air to escape when the windows are closed. However, it would probably allow more engine noise into the cabin. Even if you put the vents into the rear wheel arches, you'd also end up with road noise.

Apparently the Novas had molding on the very rear edge of the roof (I think in the center behind the t-bar handle), for a vent. But I don't think many ever had this operational. The idea being that you could pop open the vent to allow air to escape the cabin. That could be another possibility.

Or, fit aircon.

 :D ;D

I agree with Cyco, you must get air out to get air in. I have a removable sun roof, when opened at the rear sucks air out.
Also works very wel as an escape hatch (have had to use it 3 times when hydraulics failed, electrics also do fail!)

Morris

On the subject of getting air  IN
On my "Blank" reek I have the vents in the side pockets which are ducted igfht to the front in the nose opening. It gets great air flow in from there.

Exactly what we have now. Except its not enough, great flow though.

  Hi guys 2 smallsuggestions...poss, a 3rd.   1  split the tube with a Y junction just after it enters the side sill..shorttube goes to same /matching vent in TUB ...next to your knees. Vent should have swiv, /directional face to it..to control where you want aie to go.  I used a" seasonal vent" ..with its own pick up tube with it's outlwt placed at FRONT of footwell... behind break ped, ...that way you have a foot either side 7 not blocking air flow along your body.
      This is an area to experiment with....

AIR IN----AIR OUT... ! To  creat a drawing effect ..IE : enhanced flow/suction... You need...an outlet that is double the size ...of the INLET/ PICKUP...!   This may come from removing 1 or 2 windows ...or just having them open..?    ONE... Invisable outlet I used in a particularly HOT CAR... was to remove the rear window tunnel...  And using a 2 or 3' hole saw... creat 2 groups of 3 holes in the TOP of it...!  These holes can' start' as soon as the radius of the SIDES curve into the TOP surface, to be drilled ,leaving a min, of 5 to 6 cm, between the holes...( for strength in the tunnel it's self.) this will result in the strength remaining also because you should have a large gap between the 2 sets of holes.   Also benefits the fact that the holes are closer to larger SPACE you are trying to direct the air THROUGH.... by way of creating an exhaust effect..!   IF full of sound proofing.. then create an outlet tube that vents BEYOND & away from motor.  ( to avoid picking up engine noise ).... Dress the cut circles with black permanent marker...  then lay cut to size ..1 piece of mesh over all holes and glue it in place ..onder pressure...to keep it flat..!  In short ..to creat AIR-FLOW...U need to let AIR-OUT...!

Do hope this may help a little.  Oh ..why" seasonal vent"...?

Crawling down to the base of the footwell...is something you only want to do twice a year.... OPEN summer...CLOSE for winter...Lol

Cheers guys & do have a great 2013...AND that goes for  ' ALL PECCA 'members out there....! ! !    ( Inc, our beloved Prezzzz & first Lady...  xo)

Allan P

Hey everyone.

Thought I'd resurrect this topic. To let everyone know what's been going on. It's been going strong and still constantly cleaning it.

So not much has been changed. The interior air solution was corrected, we've now got a marine blower under the dash. Installed new air vent in the passenger side dash and two rear vents, one behind driver and passenger to allow air to pass out; Fitted a reverse camera, screen sits above the steering column. New springs and a rear disc conversion was done.

[Current Progress] Currently Allan is putting new headlights in, the choice to upgrade was from a night cruise, very low light. These will be full glassed in with the body and obvious resprayed.

(http://i65.tinypic.com/34z0p6h.jpg)

[26/08/2014] Our Eureka has also Won a award in the Australia VW Club car show, category "Factory Buggy"
(http://i68.tinypic.com/ezr33d.jpg)

[17/01/16] Southern Coffee Cruise - Raising money for Waroona fires that happened in south WA.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2qce8g1.jpg)

[12/02/16] Attended a ACE (Ford Club) night cruise. On this day the club allowed all cars.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/xcof20.jpg)

[28/02/16] Attended a Memorial cruise for one of Allan's known mates.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/fd6as6.jpg)

[26/03/16] Rear wheel drive car show in Fremantle.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/opd4xd.jpg)

Awesome stuff! Those headlights from the Sterling mob over in the US? Do the rear vents in the cabin allow noise in from the engine/road noise?

And, are you parked next to a Tatraplan in that last photo?!

 ;D

I had a look on the net came across Mazda RX7, MX5, Nissan pop up conversion kits.  From there research did lead into the Sterling mob. So we went on a chance and brought Nissan 240SX headlight conversion and created everything else. The vents I don't feel as though they produce more noise, can cruise with the radio on and still talk. On the plus side they do close if needed, specially I guess with puddles/water. I'll have to take some images of it.

**Much earlier shot of the headlight fitting**
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2db0aj5.jpg)



And yes, it is a Tatraplan.  8)  Delorean shown up that day too.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/hs2nb6.jpg)

Awesome work. Some photos of the vents in the cabin would be cool. It looks like one of the 4 cylinder air cooled boxer Tatraplans. A new car museum just opened down the road from me and they have one of these. I want to know if they have one of the air cooled v8 Tatra's in storage somewhere.   ;)

Hi Allan & Owen,

Where about in Perth are you, I would love to see how you set up the vent system, my number is 0409417207.

Cheers Fred

Here we go, took some quick snaps tonight.  ;)

Rear vents can close and rotate. The passenger center can tilt and fins can be moved, fully functional.

Rear vents - Into wheel well
(http://i63.tinypic.com/s4q6g3.jpg)

Passenger dash vent
(http://i64.tinypic.com/xpzlex.jpg)

*Under dash* Showing the small marine blower, mounted on the heater box.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/10xblnd.jpg)


Hi Fred,

We are in the Gosnells area. I'll pass your number onto Allan, he is currently away.

Cool. Thanks for that. Your reek has a nice interior too!   ;D

Update:

Eureka back from paint. 2 weeks away and cost of $1000. Very pleased on the final result.

Just have to put the lights in and get wiring done.

(http://i67.tinypic.com/jpvg2t.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/b9hb0z.jpg)