The Purvis Eureka Forum

Ok, here's my F4.

Here it is with my roof (not currently on the car), tipping it's 'hat'.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/IMG_0015.jpg)

Time for an update.

The 'reek has been a Rons place for about 3 months now. Not long after our meet in October last year, he suggested I bring it down to his place so we can replace the wiring on the head lights/tail lights. It was meant to be a two day job...

Part of the problem is that my 'reek is parked on his driveway, not under cover. So working on the car you're exposed to the elements. And lets say this has been the hottest summer we've had in quite some time. This week end they're predicting 40 degrees celsius for saturday, 45 for sunday. At one point, where Ron lives, it topped 45 three days running. Suffice to say, he doesn't work on it when it's too hot, let alone when it rains. Not to mention that Ron has to go to work, and do whatever Ron's do in their spare time (other then work on my car  :P )

The other reason it's taking longer is that it turned from just the head lights & tail lights, to a complete rewiring of the car. Over the first two days, we rewired the lighting system, and we discovered that my car was fitted with the loom supplied by the Purvis Eureka Factory. This had, of course, been added and subtracted to over the years. So it was a mess. We kept finding things that had us saying "What the F..K?" all the time. Just one of these examples was the drivers side indicator Ron was rewiring at one point. As I was working on the tail lights, he brought down the light assembly and showed it to me. He clipped it at about 3 inches from the light itself. And in that short 3" section of wire, there was 3 wires made into the one length. It was blue/green from the light assembly, then an inch of green wire, then another inch of blue/green wire!! 

Eventually we had to call it quits as we were running out of light on the second day. Ron said he'd keep it and work on it when he could. The crunch came when he had rewired the front end and worked back to the dash area. Under that dash was a complete mess. Worse than I had even realized. So he called and told me that it was now the time to totally rewire it. So, that's what Ron has been doing.

Here's a couple of kooky things about the wiring that was on the car. Battery up front, engine at the rear, but no battery cable running to the alternator...!?? It was being recharged through the loom at two points, the Alternator light on the dash, and I think he said the second point was off the stereo! This Ron has fixed with a length of cable that is used to earth Mainframes! That cable should be able to handle the Scooby alternator.  lol

Another one was the 'quality' of the head lights, and I use both 'quality' and 'head lights' loosely. They were real dull and brown when on. Also, no high beam!! This was one of the reason behind the rewiring of the head lights. I often called the head lights courtesy lights for other road users. They were merely there so on coming traffic knew something was there!! Why no high beam? Incorrectly wired or burned out relay, can't remember which. And the real reason the head lights were so dim? They were wired straight to the battery, not the loom. So they weren't getting the power from the alternator!

Head lights were also upgraded. My car was still using sealed beams. We got a H4 conversion kit through a local parts store ($30 AU for the pair, and includes fittings for parkers as well!). Then on top of this, we got a HID conversion kit off eBay for about $160 AU. My beast will now have 6000w Diamond White head lights. 1,000,000% better then when I got the car.  lol

Not sure what level of completion my roof is at the moment. And sometime this year (I'm hoping soonish), I'll get new Linak lifters.  8)

I also want to say that Ron is one top bloke. It was his suggestion to do the wiring on my car, and I can't thank him enough.  :)

just when you thought cyco's ride picture couldn't get any bigger it did ....aaahhhh

thought i would supply you with a different one don't take offence size doesn't matter
(http://)



[attachment deleted by admin]

Yeah, I realized that after I posted the photo. I'll change it for another photo at some stage.  lol

Here's one of my favorite photos.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/Eureka%20Car%20Club%20Meet%20Canberra%202008/ECCACanberraMeetOct2008038.jpg)

An we were all wondering what you were thinking when you got out with your camera to take it  then us in the car behind you laughed...lol  :D

Yeah, just a silly idea I've always wanted to do, take a photo of my 'reek under/at a bridge with a Low Clearance sign.  lol

Here it is with Simons roof (he's got it back now. lol).

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/Eureka%20Car%20Club%20Meet%20Ballarat%202007/ECCABallaratMeet2007124.jpg)

And with Ron's roof fitted (at this point in time, still on the car).

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/Eureka%20Car%20Club%20Meet%20Canberra%202008/ECCACanberraMeetOct2008091.jpg)

Hey Cyco

  It has hade that many roofs you sure it is the same car.

Hehe, lol... I hope so!!

I've wondered if it's even my roof. The one that Ron's fixing for me that is. Probably is, but you never know.  :P

 ;)   Mate if that roof lifted any higher via an ark axis you would poke some-ones eyey out with it, what are you using to direct lift and pivot forward the roof load, my new 12V LA 12 Actuators are the duck's guts and they lift the roof usinig 7.2V, via a flat test batery for test and wiring purposes.
     I would really love to see youre car at Mildura 09 meet my car should be there feel free to poach a few ideas of my car if any excist.
                                                Youre friend, David from the Riverland
                                                                              Thanks Cameron, Linak.

As the person who supplied the roof,
                                                  I was concerned about the possible destruction involved when no lifters/hydraulics system was in place, so the roof was secured with a piece of para -rope to stop it scratching Cyco's bonnet paint. The angle of his roof at our events that week-end is almost legendary. Not to mention the horsepower.

     See you at Mildura Cyc-Baby.

     Simon

As Simon said, the roof was stopped from going any further forward by the use of parachute cord. Ever since I've had the car, it's been a manual roof. It did have hydrolics, but to keet the story short, they were stuffed. So I used the car 'as is', and for the first couple years, the roof just sat down (kinda) when driving. Not even any clips to hold it in place. Then for the Ballarat meet, we used Simons roof, restrained by the cord so it didn't hit the bonnet.

Last week, I ordered the Linak actuators. Hopefully they arrived at Ron's digs today. I'll have to give him a ring to see if they're there.

 ;D 

A small update; the car is still at Ron's. Doesn't help that one of the senior guys pulled the plug, and now Ron has to do his job as well. But I believe the actuators are fitted.

Here's something I've been meaning to do for a while now. I have the engineers report for my 'reek, and attached are three colour photos of it back in 2000. So here they are. You'll see that the roof is in one piece, and that the spoiler isn't fitted.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/reek2000.jpg)

wow look's like a different car .... do you regret chopping the roof  ;D

i know convertables are cool but that look in the first photo is very cool... O0

I didn't chop the roof, the git I bought it off did it. Here's the story as told to me;

When he first got it, it had been sitting out in the open with the roof open 6" for about 6 months. As you might know, rams need to be kept clean to operate smoothly. Well the exposed section of ram had gone rusty, so they simply pushed the roof shut when it resisted closing. He ran it with those shot rams for a while, and over time they leaked more & more hydrolic fluid. It ended up leaking all the fluid into the cockpit, so he silicon'ed a section of tin/plastic/whatever to cover the pocket where the rams sit, to keep the fluid from leaking over the now ruined carpet.

It gets better.

Because it was leaking all the hydrolic fluid, the pump had to be topped up. So, he got an old skool oil gun and sucked up the old dirty fluid in the side pockets and put it back in the hydrolic pump. Further ruining the seals/gaskets that were ruined by forcing the roof shut on rusty rams.

After a time, the rams weren't sealed enough to maintain pressure to raise the roof. So he removed the side windows and got in Dukes of Hazard style. Must have been fun getting your feet in under the dash....

Eventually he got sick of climbing in the windows, so he and a mate took a marker and a jig saw to the roof, without even thinking of doing a clean job to fab up some removable panels from the cut out sections.

Which is when I come in on the scene. I bought it, and after a few years of driving it, and with the muchly appreciated help of Ron & Simon, have started to clean/fix it up. Still a long way to go, but we'll get there.

The roof, for instance, has been at Ron's for some time. He's glassed in the top again, and well also cut it up and make it a 'proper' t-top with removable panels, rain channels, side windows, etc.

Then there's the wiring. And the new head lights. And the new actuators.

I worked out a rough figure a month or so ago. I've had it for about 5 years now, and I've spent about $1,000 a year. Not including rego/petrol/running costs. Not bad for a 40 year old car (well, the chassis is anyway.  lol).

wow thats value for money...

Small update. About two weeks ago, Ron installed the battery to test out the electrics. New headlights and actuators are working fine, and he's wired up the alarm again for security. He still has some wiring to do, but it's getting closer. And he's also been working on my roof, so that's moving forward too.

As I said, it's just a small update.  :P

It's finished.

Just have to pick it up. Unfortunately Ron was busy this weekend, so I have yet to pick it up. Hopefully next weekend. Then all I have to do is get it through rego (due around the 25th of Oct).

 ;D

Give me a call if you need help with that Cyc-baby.

     Simon

Thanks for that Simon. It's mainly just working out our two schedules so that they meet. Will probably happen next weekend.

She's home!!

Ron drove her home yesterday and arrived just before midday. Though the last year under a tarp certainly didn't do her 'paint job' any good. Certainly a new paint job in the near future. I'll worry about that when I get my roof back. Yep, it still has Ron's roof on it. I'll post some photos in the next few days.


 :D ;D   O0

You must be happy to have it back in time for mildura... 8)

My roof is still red Cyc-baby.
                                               I still have your stainless exhaust at my workshop too. If you want to organise something now is the time.

     Simon

I am indeed happy to have her home after all this time. I have to get used to driving her again.

Still need to make a date with the spray booth Simon? How close is your's to getting back on the road? I know you're busy.

I do remember about the exhaust, but at the moment I'm trying to focus on getting through rego first. It's due the 26th of Oct. Got to get her through before the meet.

OK, as promised, some photos. I'll do before and after.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/RadiatorBatterySetup.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Eureka013.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Battery.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Eureka015.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/EngineBayfromRear.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Eureka010.jpg)

Focusing in on the driver side engine wiring...

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Eureka011.jpg)

Fuse panel; the hings you see top left, is at the front of the dash. It's under the passenger side, and held up with a couple of screws. Undo the screws and the panel hinges down so you can see it, and the lables are the correct way up.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Eureka004-1.jpg)

Driver side of dash, mainly the removal of the dash switches and moving them to the center console above the gear lever. Had two rocket switches there before, one of was dummy, the other for head lights.

And the obligatory 'raising and lowering of the roof (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/?action=view&current=Eureka001-1.flv)' video.

Booked in for the rego check friday morning.


 O0

ron did a fab job on it two thumbs up an  8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

Seems like I may be building another reputation...

So, I took the 'reek for it's RWC on friday, but it didn't past muster.

 :(

Whilst it is in better nick than last year, what with the new custom loom, headlights and lifters (many thanks to Ron), he failed it on five 'items'. Main ones were the tinworm in the passenger side floorpan, and the way the seats were mounted to the floor. He said he wanted the nuts underneath 'brased'. We figured he meant braced. He also failed the seatbelts (they were no longer self retracting, mainly the drivers seat). There were also two cracks he wanted fixed in the chassis. One was pointed out a couple of years ago (some may remember), and a fairly new looking one, rear of the passenger floorpan.

Rang Ron, ran Darren, and then early this morning (saturday) went up to Darren's place and we (and by we, I mean Darren) worked on it from about 9am to 9pm. Roughly. Probably left his place maybe 10:30pm.

Which meant the new head lights were used, and was not a problem to see. Closer to home and it started to rain. And the wiper cleared the view so I could see.

We all think that this mechanic may have had a visit from a RTA Inspector lately, and told to tighten up his game.

Just hoping he clears it on monday morning.

If I can't get it passed  :'( , I'll have to worry about it later, and fall back to Plan B, ride shotgun with Darren to the Meet.

Oh, we had a couple of spot fires..... certainly needing new carpet...  :o

Top stuff Cyco.
Keep up the good work Darran  ;D

It sure was a dogs dinner looking at the before pics.

Wishing you all the luck for Monday

So what happened to the radiator that was up front?

Cyc - baby,
                   Get me your rego details asap and I'll sort it for you. We did the same for you last year, remember? Then there's no need to freak as the time draws nearer. And I do mean ASAP, mate.

And "brased" means brass flame welded, not braced.

     Simon

hi
problem with brazing was there was nothing to braze to and the bolts are welded to the runners and go through the floor with nuts under the car,if i was to braze the nuts under the car you still cant get to the bolts to get a spanner or socket on them.I rang the rego fellow to comfirm what he wanted and he was on about engineering for the seat mounts and what not.I told him i will copy dad's seat seat that has been engineered in the last 2 year so we know it's engineered correct.But i exceeded what it had,on the front mounts  i put 100mm w x 100mm w x 5mm  plates tacked to the under side of the pan,at the rear i put 50mm w x 5mm t strip on each side so the rear bolts are through the one peice of steel. if these let go cyco's joining his winno mates in heaven.(the mount on the seats would pull through long before the mounts the rego fellow was worried about).
Simmon would,nt the same rego fellow have to pass it as failed it becouse it's on the system now ? 

Yeah Darren,
                        You're right, but there's ways around that. And the problem would be seen to be at my end, not your mechanic's. My rego dude is a legend for side-stepping the system. Lets see how Cyc - baby goes tomorrow anyway.

Good luck!

     Simon

got a silly question how come you need a rwc when your in nsw all you need is a pink slip ... ???

normal pink slip and it failed

simon
all problems have been addressed correctly it's just up to the mechanics take on the rules,theres a lot of other issues that needed addressing before what he picked on, so cyco got off pretty lite in anycase.

I meant pinkslip. Just a bit tired and rattled when I posted last night.

One thing I forgot to mention, was about the tin worm in the passenger pan. It was fairly riddled, mainly the  rear half. But there was newer metal underneath it. By that I mean on the inside of the cabin space. Fairly decent plate, and welded in place from the top. Which is why the job took a lot less then initially thought. So Darren cut the rusted section of the original pan away and welded it up neat from the underside. Looks 100% better.

Makes you wonder about our cars. We buy these things and most of us have to fix shortcuts done by previous owners.

Fingers crossed for tomorrow morning. I'll be there about 8ish and see what's what.

Yeah, I probably should have got you to handle the rego again Simon, but I haven't been thinking clearly of late. 

Positive thinking lads!
                                     You watch: it'll all be good and you'll be away. It sounds like you've done the hard yards, so the reward is waiting.

     Simon

Mildura, here we come!

She passed.  ;D

Only a slight thing, and nothing to do with the 'reek. The inspection section of the RTA site was down, so they drew up a manual sheet for the rego.

Have to go into the RTA still, I've come back to swap cars. The driveway to the RTA isn't 'reek friendly from memory.

8]

There you go!
                        Bloody good stuff boys. Well done Darren!

See you on the road scaggs! Just like we saw the Nightrider... Ooops! Wrong reality.         

     Simon

Radiator is still there, it's under that black fiberglass. Hasn't had a negative effect to cooling that I've noticed, maybe increased it if anything. Which really is opposite to what I want.  lol

no doubt i was always on edge around rego time congrats on getting it to mildura..

Some of those that were at the meet might remember a slight oil leak from my sump, looking like it was from the sump plug area.

That's fixed.

The sump plug comes out the side of the sump on a ea82 Scooby motor, but even so, the sump plug had met a number of speed bumps in it's life time. So it really needed replacing anyway. I thought it may either be the sump plug or washer was no longer a clean fit. At least that was my hope.

So I jack up the car to get enough clearance to remove the sump plug and have something there to catch the sump oil, and drop the shifter as I was adjusting it to the sump plug. I go to pick up the shifter and knock the sump plug with my hand. And the sump plug moves...

It was barely tighter than finger tight! So I remove the plug so I can get a proper match for the length and pitch of thread (no longer made by Subaru, so sourced a 'generic part'), and put that in with the original copper washer (new one came with a plastic washer).

And no leaks.

When it went for rego, I got them to also do a quick service. Apparently to quick to tighten up the sump plug. 

that sounds nasty ...hope the mouth was sealed during that excercise. :-X

Didn't have to get right underneath, just had to jack it up do I had room to undo the sump plug and have something there to catch the oil.

wasn't a 100% sure where a sump plug was on your engine because being hand tight made it unclear .. 8)

Well, today marks the 4th time mine's been on the back of a flatbed. Went for a spin this afternoon when it had cooled down some, and didn't get that far. Maybe 30 minutes into my drive, I stop for some fuel. Get back in the car and it doesn't go. Makes a short attempt to start then nothing. Here we go again I think, even though it got a brand new battery. I had my jump pack with me, so I tried that when I saw I had no reading from my battery terminal. It went to start, but then all I had was a rapid series of clicks.

So I did a series to checks. In short, without the jump pack, there was no reading on the terminal. With the jump pack, I get a reading of about 13.8 or so. Another check, I go to close the roof, figuring I'd have to get it towed home. First I use the key on the driver side without the jump pack. No go. Reconnect the jump pack, it closes. Also the thermo fan comes on (currently wired up to come on when the car is turned on). So that indicates the wiring is ok.

I did try a couple more things to work out what was happening where, but I forget exactly, it's now late and I'm a tad tired.

When I got back home, I rang Ron as he did the wiring and is much better than I am when it comes to cars. lol

Left a message and he rang me back later. After talking to him about what happened and what I tried to get it going, he was more thinking that it was the starter motor either sticking or just stuffed, rather than the alternator. My first thought was starter motor, then alternator.

Those of you who've followed my adventures over the last few years might remember something very similar happening to me about two years ago. Stopped on the side of the road, car didn't start, got towed home (this late friday arvo). Monday, towed to my mechanic, got a recon starter motor from Brisvegas, car starts. I'll have to see if I can find the receipt, but I think it came with a 6 to 12 month warranty (it was a reconditioned part after all, not new).

So in the next few days I'll try a couple of things to see if I can get the blasted thing started, depending on how that goes I'll have to get it seen to by an auto sparky.   

the battery is flat if when you turned the key an heard rapid clicks so when you used the jump pack an if got this right it turned over the battery is probly not holding it's charge so some where back through the electrical system is a major cause an you need an auto electrician...

No, the battery wasn't flat straight off. Firstly it was a brand new battery, a week old. Secondly, it did have a go at turning the starter motor over then quit very quickly. It was after that, when I tried again, that I got the repeated clicks.

Talking to Ron, basically when starting your car, the starter motor practically drains the current from your battery to get the motor going. Once it's started it puts most of it back and then the alternator is meant to do its job and top up the battery. So once it didn't start the first time, the battery has quite drained. When I tried again, there was not enough juice to turn the starter motor over.

g'day cyco... not sure on prices but have you thought about going to a bosch starter and a higher amp alternator? might be worth the extra couple of coin. good luck with your little problem, im sure it wont be a major issue to fix.

Well, I'm not sure on the starter (might have to chat with Ron about that one), but I'm sure the alternator is fine (if it's working that is), as the engine isn't VW, it's a Subaru unit (ea82t from a Vortex). Still, I'll keep your advice in mind.

I'm not overly worried about the problem, yes it means it's not on the road, but I don't think it's a huge issue. I even have a folder of wiring diagrams for the auto electrician to consult if it comes to that.

let us know what the problem is when its all sorted, im rather curious about this one

me too cause it was a hint of battery problem but sure of another problem of the cause... :)

Only way it's a battery problem is I bought a dud, which can happen. I have my 4 day weekend this coming weekend, so I'll try to get an auto electrician out to look at it then.

maybe it has had a fit dealing with the new colour scheme... ;) ;) ;D
we await the photo's... 8)

Well, it's going.

But I'm not sure for how long.

Went to see if I could get it going. First thing I did was to see if it would start, nothing. I needed to raise the roof so I could get in, roof wouldn't lift. Connect recharged jump pack, roof raised. Also noted that the display on the battery terminal wasn't giving a reading until I hooked up the jump pack.

I check the fuse panel under the dash, mainly for the ignition, as well as the fuses in the engine bay. They all seemed to be fine. Then I noticed the green led under the gear lever was on. Double checked, the battery pack wasn't connected. Hmm, loose fuse? So I go to start the car. No go. So led must have been lit by residue current, they'll do that, some for a few minutes. But I double check all the fuses I had just checked and for each one I checked the led. It didn't light up. So that was that eliminated.

Next step, block of wood, a hammer, and the starter motor. Gave it a few solid whacks. I connected the jump pack, and tried starting the car. It went to start but was hesitating, even gave me a couple of clicks just as I turned it off. Had a thought and rang Ron, so he could hear it starting (even though he's at work and the phone isn't near him, he'd get the voice mail). So I go to start it again. Also remember that this is the second start on the jump pack, so it's been fairly drained. But it gives it a good solid go, and wouldn't you know it, it starts. I didn't even have to goose it. One it was started, I manually revved the throttle cable so it was idling ok.   

All well and good.

But I made another couple of observations. First, the battery display was telling me it was at 11.8 amps. Over the next 10 - 15 minutes, that went down to 11.6 amps. Also, the red alternator light came on, but remained on when it should turn off once the cars going. Must admit, even though it's in front of my face when in the drivers seat, I don't remember it's behavior the last couple of months...  :-[

In review, it looks like the starter motor had jammed and needed a good thumping, something I couldn't do out on the road (no block of wood or hammer). Second, it does look like I'm up for a new alternator. I should have one here somewhere, but I'll seek out a new one if possible.

 

when it is running at idle put your head lights on to high beam then turn the lights on if there is a slight change in the engine revs the alternator is ok,but with the exon lights i'm not sure if the revs will change but worth a try.
allso check the battery.
..darren

I did check the headlights today when I was working on the car, to see what strength they were when running, they were nice and bright. But I didn't think to listen to the revs when I was checking the lights. I was intending to try starting the car tomorrow, so I'll try that idea then.

your car sounds like it has a mind of its own. quite interesting though

he's car is unique but i don't want to get into the whole orange an red debate here to...  ;) ;) 8)

Hi
Cyco I have just reread your posts because it’s not making sense to me
Questions
1)   Is the battery display in volts or amps
2)   Do you have a battery charger
Conversion for alternate motors usually uses a VW starter motor with the fly wheel manufactured to fit the crankshaft of the new motor (the starter motor is mounted in the gearbox). Usually a person would upgrade to a so called high out put starter or a Kombi high output unit.
The kombi starter is different to the beetle as it does not have a pinion support at the flywheel end of the shaft in some cases of starting problems with beetles it’s the bush (bearing) has failed in the box and not allowing the starter to mesh properly with the fly wheel I think I have pictures at home will post tonight. Also when the battery becomes very low some starters will jam in mesh with the flywheel making all sorts of noises and false electrical paths. 
If the battery display is in volts this indicates that the alternator is not charging don’t worry this could be as simple as the battery being too flat to excite the alternator (make it work) if you don’t have a battery charger buy one. Its a good idea as the beast is not driven regularly and this leads to the battery going flat  as there only $40 for a cheap one this would be a trickle charger or a slow charger leave it to charge over night(have the leads disconnected from the car as to eliminate any discharge or other issues). After it’s been charging over night check all battery lead terminals as being clean and tight, then try starting it. This battery voltage should have come up enough to start the motor and run the alternator with out using your jump pack.
After you have started it check the battery display if it displays voltage as I suspect it should be showing around 13.9-14.2 volts this would indicate the alternator is operation correctly. The source of your problem will be then somewhere else you may have a unit/component that is draining the battery when the car is turned off like a defective radio, remote control unit or an alarm.     
Hope this helps
If you need to clarify any of what I have writhen give me a call (will pm you my phone number)

Andrew 

Andrew, it's not making sense to me either.

1)  The Battery Terminal doesn't say what (amp or volts), but I'm pretty sure it's in volts. They're a Jaycar unit, like this but not exactly like it. (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HC4046&keywords=battery+terminal&form=KEYWORD)

2) Yes, I do have a battery charger, bought a new one as I couldn't find mine earlier this year. It's a trickle charger, with the auto cutout/top up feature.

The battery that's in the car now is only a couple of weeks old. But the previous one I didn't know how old that one was and I had to charge it about half a dozen times since last year. I took a punt on that the battery was terminal (pun intended  :P ), so bought a new one. Could hear the difference in how the engine was running at idle, 100% better. So I thought that was the problem. It seems it was just the tip of the iceberg.

I have no idea what the starter motor is, other than it's a VW unit. It's tucked down under the drivers side of the engine, nice and accessible to hit it with a piece of lumber & a hammer. lol So it's certainly not mounted in the gearbox.

Battery terminals & posts are new and clean.

Anyway, I went out and started the car this morning. Started second turn (had to get in and goose the loud pedal, fairly typical). No jump pack used, in fact it's still charging from being used the other day. I checked the readout on the terminal before I started it, was 12.8, went to 13.8 when the car was up and running. Also I didn't need to hit the starter motor with a piece of wood & a hammer.

Trying Darren's suggestion, I flicked on the headlights, and there was a slight drop in revs, but just slightly. I tried it several times and noticed the drop in revs about 1/2 the time.

You do have one thing correct Andrew, the stereo is very temperamental (Yes Simon, it's still the same unit, lol). And I have noticed that it's been worse than usual lately, finally making me think I should replace it. But surely if I drove the car to the petrol station, filled it up, paid and came back out to the car, it shouldn't have drained a car battery in that time?

Actually, same with the alarm. Hmm. Been meaning to get that sorted out as well. That's more likely the issue.

Thanks for the PM Andrew.   ;)
  

Hi
The radio or alarm may not discharge the battery while you are in the servo but when the motor is hot it will be harder for the starter to turm over. So if the time from your house to the servo is short the battery may ot have recovered from your first start and being slowly drained by alarms/radio these last two are more than likley the killers.Batterys are rated in amper hours Eg 60 aph so knowing this if a part or unit draws 1 amp it should take 60 hours to flatern the battery but before the battery can no longer supply the 1amp their will be a point that the energy levels in the battery are too low to supply the 150amps for 20  seconds to starte the motor.UNLESS
I had another thought the lead from starter to battery may be a bit small???Is your battery in the nose or in cabin?this can also effect the charging of the battery by the alternator.

My Eureka had only very small 16mm (bad choice of cable)cable from battery to starter motor(battery in nose) I up  graded it to a 120mm and all starting/charging problems from the previous owner went away.This can all be explained by ohm's law (another time)

Andrew

Just before I left home for work, Ron rang me back. He's thinking it might be the bushes in the altinator, but suggested I check the connectors on the starter motor from the altinator. he also suggested checking the battery terminals as you suggested. So tomorrow I'll check both wiring for the battery, altinator & starter motor.

The cable from the starter to the battery (which is up in the front of the car), is actually earthing cable for a mainframe that Rod got from somewhere. So that should be more than able to cope. 

Gotta go, have to go do some lurnin', that's the reason we've been stood down for the firtst 1.5 hours of shift.    ;D

Ok, another bit of 'tinkering' and checked those connections. Only thing I found was two grub screws on the positive terminal were just a tad loose, so I tightened them up. That's it.

I'll call in an auto electrician over the weekend and see what he can find. 

an auto electrician on a long weekend goodluck .. ;) ;)  an no not a april fool joke ... ;D

Well we'll see. There are plenty of businesses that don't observe Public Holidays. Was going to do it this weekend anyway (calling an auto electrician), as this is my rostered 4 days off, and that was before I realized it overlapped with the Easter weekend.

 8) :) goodluck hope it all goes well..

Quick update. Have yet to get an auto electrician to look at it yet. But have booked it in to get it seen to next wednesday. We'll see how it goes then. 

i wish luck mate

chances are its something very simple, its usually the case, yet it always cause such nightmares.

I'm not really that worried about it. My main worry is taking it out for a spin using only what's in the battery then just stopping somewhere on the roadside and requiring a tow, again.

just a thought cyco, i mean it all depends on your budget but is it worth just completely rewiring the car? you would no 100% that there would be nothing wrong with any wires,. not sure when yours was constructed or who done it, but it could have been a bit of a backyard job. if the problem is still evident, then you know its either battery alt or starter. as you said its HIGHLY unlikely to be battery considering when you purchased it.

i know its easy for people to sit back and throw around ways to spend YOUR money but i guess its something to consider.

it's just been rewired last year.

As the Stig said, it got a full rewire last year. It spent some 11 months off the road whist a mate rewired the car during his spare time, which he didn't have much of. I'm not worried about his work, he rewires/troubleshoots planes at Bankstown airport. So as far as Im concerned the wiring isn't the problem. It truely needed rewiring, probably one of the worst examples of wiring on a 'reek.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/underdash.jpg)

Don't have any 'after' photos to show.

I've eliminated the battery terminals, various connections, and the starter motor. It seems to be alternator. Guess I'll find out next week.

going by the before shot, i get the feeling you guys werent telling any fibs, that WAS a mess!

If you go back to the first page of this topic, the second (long) post is about the rewiring of the car, and several examples of what we found when we started rewiring.

That 'before' photo I believe was taken after three milk crates worth of useless wire was removed from the car, at least one crates worth was between the dash and the drivers side front wheel arch.

geez!, page 1 here i come, gonna read the whole lot now

Hey cyco

    Can you jump start car with jump pack, then take jump pack off with motor running. If motor stops alt, if it keeps goin probably droped cell in battery. If you want us to come for a run down to have a look at weekend let us know. Darren has my no. I dont have yours.

Anthony.

I can jump start the car, get it running and it keeps running when I take disconnect the jump pack. So going by what you daid, it could very well be a dud battery. Just my luck. lol

I'm working this weekend, I'm currently in the middle of my 7 day run, so I don't finish until tuesday afternoon. I've been a bit hesitant to take it for a spin, I don't fancy another tow. 

it sound's more an more of similar problems i had but then again every eureka is different i was running a
v w 1600 your engine setup different to that ...it probly is the battery cause a battery has a shelf life if the car is not driven daily in saying that what i'm getting at it's not holding it's charge so whatever your problem is at the moment is somewhere between the battery an the motor ... in my case the generator was a contributing factor but the gizmo near the drivers side tyre was corroded an rusted it 's purpose was to start the car an that's all it did .. i know this is not going to help you because like i said every eureka is different... an putting the battery it on those battery rechargers overnight after taking off an out of car is not an ideal  solution because i've been in that predicament it only solves it short term..

Dave's right Cyc-baby,
                                Normal car batteries need at least weekly use to maintain their charge and see their full life span. For our reeks, which may or may not be driven for weeks, I'd recommend buying a long life battery like an Optima or similar. These batteries can be charged and discharged hundreds of times over a period of several years without wear.

They cost about $320 to $360. Susie will have one in her rotor soon, because she doesn't drive it enough and normal batteries can get expensive if you're buying one every year or so. I'll be putting one in my reek too.

     Simon

It seems like you guys are missing something;

The battery is only at most, one (1) month old. It was also new stock. I first used the the car one week after I fitted the new battery. I've had my car turn over first or second attempt after not using it after 3 months. Not even needed a jump start.

I'm not saying that the battery is pefect, I could have bought a dud. It happens.

The previous battery was unknown to me. It came back with the car when Ron brought it back to me. He had several batteries at his place and couldn't remember which one was mine. So I have no idea how old the previous battery was. For all I know it was 4 years old and truely on it's last legs. It had to be recharged several times in the first 3 months.

I put the new battery in the car and get 30 minutes use out of it, then I have problems. Going from that, it sounds like a possible battery failure. But it's held it's charge since then. To make sure I'll go turn it over this arvo.

I should point out that even if I don't take it out for a spin, it gets turned over at least once a fortnight and I let it run for abour 30 minutes.

It starts, so the starter motor isn't at fault (unless it was sticking, and the 4x2 + hammer trick jolted it loose).

I've checked the various leads/terminals. And aside from a couple grub screws loose on the positive terminal (and by loose they needed maybe an 1/8th turn to tighten them), all connections seem ok.

Someone at work pointed out it may be the regulator is at fault, for that I'd need a auto electrician to tell me what's going on with it, same with the alternator.

Hmm, battery history. The battery in it lasted until I had the problem with the starter motor prior to the Canberra meet. I replaced it then, but the problem was the starter motor (which was replaced). That new battery was in the car until it went to Rons to be rewired. Then it came back with a unknown battery (to me) which lasted 6 months. Then the new one I bought about a month ago.

It will be going to an auto electrician next week so work out whats happening.

hey cyco

  when you start it check what voltage you have, then rev it and see if it goes up much. Should go up a bit but should not go over 16volts. If over 16 when reved maybe regulator cooked batt, but if not take battery back for warrenty if came with any, most batts only come with 3 month warranty and are made to last 12 months. Only some batterys come with longer warranty and cost lots more. eg calcium sealed batterys.

Anthony ;D

Didn't get a chance to check it this afternoon, got some overt time and didn't get back until dark (meant to finish at 17:00 anyway). Hopefully I'll get home tomorrow whist there is still some daylight. Whist I do have a garage, it's an out building and has no lights, let alone power.

I'd check what the battery is reading when I rev the engine, but the readout is up under the bonnet. And I'm fairly sure I've still got the receipt for the battery. Been meaning to look for it but forgetting to. lol

but in the wrong context cyco i miss when my eureka used to look like this but had the same dilemma you are having now... ;) ;D

Ok, just went out and started the car. It hadn't been touched since last week. With a couple of pumps of the loud pedal, she started first turn. Before I started her, I checked the voltage, 12.4. After I got her going, I checked it again, 14.1. Using what else, a hammer, I got the revs up a bit and quickly checked the voltage, 14.1.

So going by what you said Anthony, that should rule out the regulator. There's not much left to check, it's starting to sound like the alternator is the only thing it could be.

hey all,

just a thought cyco, have you checked you earth strap from engine to chassis? i don't want to lead you up the garden path but a bad earth can often cause all sorts of headaches. good luck with your fault finding.

Aiden.

Actually, no I haven't. I'll go hunting for that hopefully tomorrow afternoon.

 ;)

Checked the earth strap, right down the front of the gearbox. Well, it looked ok, bit hard to get to.

Anyway, it's currently down at the auto electrician. You know how you get some problem on your car, but take it to the mechanic and he can't find the fault as it seems to disappear?

Not this time!

I had parked it in his driveway whist I talked with him about the problem, and various things I'd done to isolate it. Then a customer came in to pick up his car, so I had to move mine out of the way. And then it did the same trick as it did at the petrol station. I hopped in it, and turned the key. It went to start, then just plain stopped. Turn the key and nothing. No starter motor, no relays clicking over. Nothing.

Pushed into the workshop and he asked where the battery is. So I open the bonnet and automatically check the battery terminal readout. Not a thing, doesn't light up.

So he comes along and starts looking and checking a couple of things, including the isolation switch. Yes, I did forget to mention I have one fitted under the bonnet, but I had checked that myself to the best of my capability (which really isn't much!). As he was checking the leads, he bumped the button for the battery terminal display, and I see it flicker!!

I quickly suggest I turn it over whist he walks down the side to poke around in the engine bay. I hop in and turn the key. And it starts!!

So it's getting a new isolation switch today. Hopefully it's ready this afternoon, otherwise I should be able to pick it up tomorrow. Hopefully today, but we'll see. Can't be too late either, I have a dinner date to attend at 18:00 this evening.

that's great news but what's the isolation switch is that like a imobiliser a security feature for theft...

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/Eureka013.jpg)

Follow the tube coming through the bonnet to where it sort of meets the 'wall of the under bonnet area on the left. The red thing is the isolation switch.

You're right it is a security feature, in that it helps prevent thieves from taking your ride. That red thing is a plastic key, on the end of which is a brass 'tooth'. When you remove it, and it's been installed correctly, it will stop electricity being supplied by the battery to the loom in the car. It simply won't start. When you insert the key and turn it, the brass 'tooth' finishes the connection and you'll be able to drive off.

Now, one thing I had forgotten is that those keys do tend to wear out after a while. I also forgot to ask the auto electrician, but I think he swapped in a new isolation switch, as I don't believe the keys are available just by themselves.


So here's hoping that all the problem was the switch. And yes, it's home in the garage tonight.

here's to hoping that's great news now you just have to drive it more so the battery doesn't go flat.. ;D

It usually gets driven or started at least every two weeks.

Saying that, I was getting ready for a short afternoon drive just now, but we had some serious thunderclouds and rolling thunder coming over, so that put a stop to my drive. Still started her and ran her for about 10 minutes though. And she did start with no problems.

excellent , does it look like the problem of it's stutter step fixed..

I'm screwed.

Well, at least my rear passenger tyre is. Must have picked it up during last weeks sunday afternoon drive.   >:(

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/tyre001.jpg)

I just went out to start her and she how she ran, I think I picked up some bad fuel, or there was a bit of water in it, as it wasn't idling well last week before I went for the drive (fueled up part way into the drive). And as I was locking up the garage, I noticed one of the rear tyres was flat.

Now, given how old these tyres are, I don't think any tyre place worth it's salt will repair that, if it's possible. Which means, any plans for the gearbox will have to take a step back as replacing these isn't going cheap, there's serious acreage of rubber under my 'reek. And given that the rears are 265 (fronts are 245) and I haven't found a supply of TA Radials (hey, I like the look...) in that size, I'll have to drop the rears down to 255.

I'll also take the wheel off and take it to my local tyre place and see what they say, but I'm not expecting anything positive.

I'm off now to email Antique Tyres to get a quote on 4 new tyres.  :'( Well, the handling should pick up with new rubber at least.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/YOKOHAMA-TYRES-265-50-15-SUIT-HOT-ROD-ONE-TONNER-/200468258022?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eacd6dce6

what a great find ....price ain't half bad either.. 8)

Maybe, but they were a tad far away, and for pickup only. Oh, and 15"s not 14"s.

Well, $15.00 later, and the tyre is plugged/repaired.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/tyre004.jpg)

That said, he said it 'should do for now' and recommended I replace the tyre due to age & wear.

I asked him if he could get some wide rubber for 14" wheels (preferably with white lettering), and he recommended, Antique Tyres. I'm in the process of emailing Antique Tyres and I'll see how that goes.

bridgestone may have some 245/60/14's but they only have a very low number of them that they found in a container somewhere when i brought the eagers for thr rear of my reek,it may pay to give them a ring and when they say no tell them to check they may not all be sold yet.
..Darren

Thanks for the heads up Darren, I might give them a call tomorrow.

Thought that since I had the rear wheel off, I'd take a couple of photos of the rear disc brake conversion.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/rearbrakes003.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/rearbrakes004.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/rearbrakes002.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/rearbrakes001.jpg)

They're VW hubs machined down to take Brembo disc brakes. Calipers are from Fiat 125. Don't let anyone tell you Fiat 125's didn't exist. lol They were done by John Sherman, though these days he uses EA (BA?) Falcon.

Cyco,
That is the same conversion I have on my reek.  Also exchange FIAT 125 calipers are available in the northern hemisphere on an exchange basis.  I replaced mine last year.

Bushboy

excellent photo's of  the convesion i should check an post the ones i sent to paul it would make a good comparison for the difference.. :)

With regard to those plugs, I used to drive hire cars and limos and our mechanic always used those plugs to repair nail holes. Never had a problem with them, even doing 110++ down the F3 freeway!   ;)

They always lasted until the tyres were due to be replaced, so I wouldn't rush out to replace the tyres until you feel that they need changing.

Terry

They could do with replacing,I think they may have been on the 1st eureka made they are that old :) :D

I agree Darren. The plug will let me keep using the car until I get a set of replacement tyres. I've emailed a few distributers/manufacturers of tyres, but getting 265/50 14's is getting harder.

Terry, those tyres have been described as some in the club as being around 20 years old! So they really do need replacing.

Just read through and saw you had issues with your battery isolation switch.

I have dealt with these on the electric bicycles. You can buy them for $17.95 from Jaycar electronics and they come with a rubber boot. You can also get them from boating shops like Whitworths and Bias Boating ($12.90 higher rating, 500A I think with larger terminal studs but no rubber boot). Other places like RS Components and the auto racing shops want > $50.

Thanks for the info. It seems to be behaving itself now, other than the search for wide rubber for my 14" wheels.

Hi

As you may have readed i have updated to 16*?? rims and tyres my rears are no good but the fronts may be ok if you need them for rego let me know there yours

Andrew

Thanks for that Andrew, but weren't they 15" rims, and old tyres as well. I can get new tyres in the same size as I have now, but lacking the raised white lettering. I may just have to bite the bullet and get them. Yokohama don't do them any more in 265/50/14. Waiting from an email back from BF Goodrich. May just ring them tomorrow.

It's been ages since I last posted anything to do with the saga regarding the tyres. I got a set of BF Goodrich TA Radials off of evilbay. Not new, but in good condition, apparently only 100klm on them. Were allegedly on a show car, but when you look at one of the 265's, there's damage on the side of the tread where it rubbed on a guard. But it's not enough to ruin the tyre.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/eureka008.jpg)

But as there was no way that four wide tyres  would fit in the cockpit of a 'reek, I had to take off the wheels and take them to the tyre place and get them to swap the tyres over for me.

Luckily a work mate had a set of 4 axle stands, which made the process a whole lot easier.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/eureka009.jpg)

And I kept the old TA's. They were only going to be destroyed, and given how hard it is to find wide rubber for 14" rims, I decided to keep them as spares.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/eureka010-1.jpg)

Finally, anyone remember the saga of my getting it past rego last year? Remember the seat belts? Only one came with the stalk and Darren had some 'fun' getting one from the store we bought it from.

Earlier this year, I eventually got another short stalk, so they both match, and the passenger has a functional seat belt!!  

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/eureka007.jpg)

It's booked in for rego next tuesday, here's hoping it passes this time.  

She passed rego today, so bring on Coffs!


 O0

thank good for that,i've been waiting for a call :P

lol, don't worry, I got Ron to help out.  :P

Just needed the brake lights fixed. Fitted a new brake light switch, bled the brakes, and she's fine. Also fitted a new stereo. Woo! Finally.

Yep, fixed same day. As it turned out, Ron had a day off so I ran down about midday and we got it all done during the afternoon. Made the run back just after 7pm. Got to say it again, but damn those HID headlights work well.

i have a set of HID's but have not fitted them yet

does that mean it's my turn next rego to help you out? :P

The HID headlights are worth the effort. At least if you sometimes drive the 'reek during the night.

As for next years rego, I certainly hope not.  lol

great to hear you got yours tyres cause i just read in my local adverts for the sized tyres an automatically thought of ya  but it's too late now..

Just a small update.

It's all mine!!! Just paid off the loan (one year a head of time), so the 'reek is wholly mine.

So I'm debt free, for now.

8]

Well done

Now its time to upgrade

Andrew

As Agro said, it's time for an upgrade.

It's only a small one, I bought a house! Three bedroom brick veneer, long single garage (enough space in front of the car for a work bench), combustion fireplace in lounge room, a/c x 2 (at either end of house), single bathroom, kitchen is kinda old but that's ok.

It's not a bad sized block, sloping back yard, front yard slopes as well but not as much, driveway should be Eureka friendly.

Made the offer this afternoon and it was accepted. So I'll be moving in about 2 months.

My heads spinning!!

 :D  

Sincere and heavy congrats Cyc-baby!
                                                          I'll look forward to seeing your new place sooner rather than later. Good stuff mate!

     Simon

Hi

Good work
Now you wil not have to move all the time should save you some money
and then with the bench more work on the car is expected

Andrew

Congrats Cyco,
 I take it we will be able to hold NSW meets at your new place, seems though you are half way between Sydney and Newcastle. Ha Ha

Anthony :laugh:

Thanks guys.

The place is pretty much a buy and move straight in. It's an older house, the current owner is the proverbial little old lady who's lived there for 30 years. So it's been fairly looked after and she's moving on into a retirement village. One feature I never went looking for is a ducted vacuum system! lol

I'm so fed up with moving around, ever since I left home at 20 the longest I've set roots down was 6 years. I hope to be at this new place longer than that.

There isn't much room for a lot of cars on the street, let alone on the property! It's a fairly quiet area, well it will be until I move in. lol

Well, yesterday mid afternoon, I picked up the keys to my house! The Office of State Revenue, those people who give out the first home buyers grant, stuffed up and it basically meant I had to wait an extra two weeks. Could have been in there by now. Need to replace carpet and a few other odd jobs and I can move in. Hopefully by the end of the month.

 ;D

Good stuff Cyc-baby,
                                sms me an address when you have the opportunity. If I find time I'll come up to check your reek for the work coming up.

     Simon

I don't have the net connected at home yet, so I'm limited to posting at work, and a quick look on my phone (posting from that it to time consuming!! lol).

The last few weeks have been busy with work and moving. And then the actuators on the 'reek stopped working while the roof is open. So it's still at the old place, but I don't have to move out until next saturday. Ron's comming up to help out over the week end.

Sorry I haven't been in touch Simon, but it's been a little crazy lately. lol

Just a quick update whilst I have a few minutes at work. With much help from Ron, we got the 'reek over to my new place. However we had to take the actuators out as it seems that the worm gear in both units have stuffed. It seems that the keyed switch on the flank of the car was kept triggered even with the keys removed, which kept the actuators activated lifting the roof, thus stuffing the worm gears.

I'll ring Linak this arvo about shipping them down for repairs, and start the search for a new keyed switch.

Bummer Cyc-baby.
                              A waste of good lifters. Anyhoo, I'm after the key switches too, mate. Enough for three seperate reeks. I'll let you know if I find something first. Times ticking away...

I need 1 but would like a spare.
When I return to work I will see if the eleco's can source somthing from a supplier thay my do what we want.but I have a few more weeks off with my arm problems
....Darren

Dweeby has an after market switch and the guy I bought the car from installed it and got it off his shelf at Active Electrical Supplies where he works so I'll try and track him and it down and see if I can get a model number for you.

PP.

Right then,
                 I'll go directly to Toyota a see if I can trace a number for their electric window four runners. Probably won't be cheap but at least it'll be another option.

     Simon

could do with 3 or 4 switches myself

I also had a stuck roof switch and it destroyed the worm drives. LINAK sold me a pair of motors, which includes the nylon worm and it cost about $250, I think. Just bolted them to the the jackscrew in place of the old ones and back in business.  I do recommend fitting a light that glows when the motors are powered, to let you know if a switch sticks again!

      Ted

Yeah, I believe the actuators are not dead, just need some repair. I talked to someone at Linak the other day, someone with a thick I think Lebaniese accent, I could hardly understand him. I asked for Cameron, but he was unavailable. I rang yesterday, but he was on a RDO, bank on monday. I'll give him a ring and see what's what. Hoefully I'll get them fixed in a week or two.

Ron suggested a timer switch so that if they are triggered they only run for say 20 seconds.

As for the switches, sounds like there are quite a few of us looking for them. Maybe we should organise a group order, when we source a likley replacement.

Spoke to Cameron on Monday, and posted the actuators on the same day. Due to overtime, I was late in getting to the post office, just 15 minutes before closing time, but 15 minutes after the last mail collection. I was just hoping to catch them so that they could go out first collection the next day, but as it turned out, the postal dude was running late himself and said he'd take them that last trip. So hopefully I'll get them back next week.

I'm back on the net, so no more trying to do stuff through my phone, probably will be a nice big bill for the next one. Oh well you get that. Mind you I still need to reconfigure the router. It's supposed to be fixed up by friday, but this arvo I had a hunch to try the phone line and found a dial tone. So I've just set up the router with the old setting to see what happened. I got the internet, but not the speed for my new account. But as that will probably not be active until friday, I can live with it for now.  ;)

I had a call from Linak today and they've sent me the details of what had to be repaired and the bill. Had to replace the worm gear and the engine on both actuators. So over $400, about twice what I was hoping.

Also the gearbox should arrive in country this week or the next. Was delayed somewhere on route I believe.

Hi

Gearbox????
4 or 5 speed???

Andrew

Next time you talk to Simon, ask him about my gearbox.  lol

I'm sticking with a 4 speed VW gearbag at the moment, though it's costing a few clams. I know I could try that subaru dude in Sydney and get a reversed gearbox, but while I have a few $$$ saved up for the car in a slushfund, I don't want to go to far overboard in spending. At least for the moment.Yep the gearbox (Prostreet from Rancho (http://ranchotransaxles.com/vw-transaxles.html)) is costing me 2k, but the scooby setup is something like 3.5k.

The repaired actuators arrived yesterday arvo just before I left for work. Huzzah! So now I can start moving forward again.

Ok, so pretty much none of my plans for the 'reek this year went to plan. Which means sadly my 'reek is staying in it's new home instead of heading south for Mildura this year.  :'(

Since I was getting a new fuel tank (tanks of Simon), I figured it was time to give the old gearbox the flick. It's pretty much on it's last legs, and I have this gut feeling it wont make the 2000+klm round trip. Knowing my luck, it will die on the Hay Plains. In the middle of nowhere.

But the gearbox has been delayed, and delayed, and delayed. I started this back in June. Buying the house threw a spanner in the works for a while, that's true. But it's mainly because of the delay in getting the gearbox.

I'm still coming to Mildura, for sure. I'm now riding shotgun with Darren. Which will help the both of us, looking at it realistically. We can split the fuel bill, which cost me some $250 last time to Mildura and back.

The fuel tank, gearbox and the rest will still be done, they need doing. Now it will be after this years meet.

 

And she got through rego today with out a hassle. Though I'm sure the gearbox is generating more noise than it normally does, which I noticed on the short 5 minute drive to and back from the mechanic.

good to see she got passed

Glad to hear it passed muster again Cyco but you're a big girl for not bringing it to Mildura  :evl:

I drove the Dweebster all the way to Coffs Harbour in 2003 with a gearbox that wouldn't stay in first without you holding it in with a heap of force on the gearstick and it would jump out of top every now and then and the diff sounded like it was trying to get out at about 90kmh ... and I'd only just put the gearbag in there a month before the Coffs trip!  It stayed in there until June 2006 when I couldn't manage to hold it in first any longer so I bit the bullet and put in another $200 brand new second hand one which is still in there by the way.  :-\

They are pretty bullet proof so give it some thought about making one last trip before you put the Rancho in it eh! O0

PP.

I know they're pretty tough, and sound like it going from your story! But I don't mind. At one point it looked like I was going to have to drive the Camry to the meet in Canberra, but got a reco starter motor in it at the last minute.

I've already made plans with Darren, and I don't mind sharing driving duties with him, and I'll cover half of the fuel bill. Which will help both of our wallets.

But if I'm a big girl, what about those who are trailering their 'reeks for a 5 hour trip? They must be limp wristed pansy girls at the very least.

 :P

What's wrong with being a limped wrist pansy girl  ;D
james

if I can't drive all the way I don't go.the trip there in the reek is 1/2 the fun  :)
Only thing with having a passanger is have to bring less stuff due to space but thems the breaks.

I'll put me hand up  ;D
I'm a closet, limp wrist-ed pansy girl  :o

I agree. Driving is half the adventure, however, have you seen the wife's luggage?
All I need is a clean "T-Shirt" and I pick those up at the meet. What else does one need?  whistle
(I drove to the foreign country of Melbourne last week and took a jumper.)
So I can blame her for having to buy a trailer  ;D

lol

I'm like a woman when it comes to packing to go on a trip :roll:.With Cyco riding shotgun I will have to try and pack lite,should be interesting

Well, it's been 9 months since I started the order for the Rancho gearbox, well it arrived yesterday.

 ;D

My slush fund has taken a hit the last few months, but I can still swing for the new driveshafts, as long as I can get in touch with Classic VeeDub.

Cyco:
What was the $$$$ in the end you spent on the Rancho Gearbox... I'm thinking of adding a Turbo to the Black Reek so New Box + Brakes + Cooling is required....

Including delivery from Brisbane, $2021 and some change. That's from Mick Motors, they're the Australian distributors for Rancho. It may be cheaper buying direct from Rancho in the US, but you need to supply an exchange gearbox. So you'd either have to ship a gearbox over to the States, or buy one over there and get them to ship the gearbox to Rancho.

And then you'd have shipping from the US, plus customs.

The gearbox I got is the Type I Prostreet IRS box. If you were a resident in the US buying the 'box, it would cost you $695 USD, plus shipping. Mine cost me some $1800 AUD, plus GST and shipping. You would think our Australian Dollar would help, but you're still battling customs.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/RanchoProStreet.jpg)

[edit: photo added]

What aspect would customs have on this sort of gear?
I've never had any problems bringing in other automotive items in through customs under $1000AUD Value....

Getting a Core Change Box to Rancho in USA should be easy enough.. Selling for around ~$50USD on Ebay...(Their Core Charge is only $200USD anyhow)

Might have to get a shipping quote from US to AU...

Honestly, I don't know how much Customs would charge, maybe you're right and there isn't a charge. Here's their site (http://www.ranchotransaxles.com/vw-transaxles.html), which will have their contact info.

 ;)

Hmmm,
              The clutch lever is longer than standard. I've been doing this mod for awhile. When you get the chance Cyc-baby, could you measure it top to bottom for me? Thanks mate. It'd be interesting to know what length they use compared to me.

     Simon

5 1/4" or 134mm.

It's a 'box from the US. I know the local Bugs were a bit different that most other countries to a certain extent, could this be one of the differences?

Will it be a problem, or easily sorted?

Hi

If my brain is running right (still foggy from operation ) i think the super bugs and some type 3's had a larger clutch lever

Andrew

Ah, that's probably it. It said on the label tied to the 'box it's a 73 ProStreet IRS gearbox. If that's the year, then it would probably make it a SuperBug '

Thanks for that Cyco... I have emailed them in the past regarding a Box for the Black Reek :)
I'm just tossing up the "Urgently" required items at this stage...

I think we might make Disc Brake Upgrade & Air Conditioning the 2012 Upgrade List... and put New Gearbox & Turbo Rotary Setup for 2013.

No problemo. I'm hoping my new gearbox is installed by this years meet. 

 ;)

Finally got through to the folks down at Classic Vee Dub in Sydney to grab a new pair of axles. And it turns out they now get the Rancho ProStreet gear boxes. And they're going for $1400.00. $600 cheaper then it cost me up in QLD.

*sigh*

I actually asked them last year, and they told me they weren't going to stock them as it was going to be too much time and effort...Gah!

Ah well. So if you're looking for a Rancho gearbox, maybe start with the folks at Classic Vee Dub (https://www.classicveedub.com.au).

Mind you, it took me three weeks of ringing them before I actually got a hold of someone. Honestly, well over 40 phone call attempts before I was successful.

Hi

Yes he's been off
I am waiting on my drive shafts too mine were held up by customs 

Andrew

Nice, I'll have to keep that in mind for when the time comes.

https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=17419

Almost the same as the one I bought, though mine has an alloy side plate and the 3.88 ratio.

When I first decided on a Rancho 'box, and I looked around Oz for someone selling them, Classic Vee Dub, had them listed as coming soon on their site. For over half a year. When I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy one, I rang him and he said they had decided not to get them in because of the difficulty of setting up the dealership deal. Or something like that. Must have changed their minds.

...and if you didn't buy one then Classic Vee Dub still wouldn't be stocking it - Murphys law.  ...So the rest of us have you to thank really.

Good point. I might be out of pocket $600, but I guess if it helps someone else in the club get one, then it's all good.

 ;)

Cyco:
I'll spot you $600 worth of beers at the next National Meet if I get a Rancho from Classic Vee Dub :)
Only qualification is you must drink all the beer offered :)

lol

It would take me all year to drink that much beer.


 :D

Well, I got my new axles this week on thursday. Why did it take so long? Looks like the fellows there didn't note down my phone call that I had transferred the funds. It then took over 3 weeks of ringing to get a hold of someone. Turned out the axles had been packed and put aside, and they were waiting for me to ring them. I did. And I rang multiple times over the intervening 3 weeks. I rang on monday 40 times, and never got through, would get an engaged tone, or it went through to a fax.

Anyway, I now have two new axles.

 :) 

Hi

I will have to ring and see if my ones are in

Andrew

Might be an idea, if you can get through.  lol

Hi

I did not phrase my post correctly it should have said
Drive up yell look through every thing steal a drink from the fridge the ask where's my s##t😡😡😡😡

Andrew

Small but significant update.

She passed rego today. Had to get a new tie rod end fitted, but other than that, she passed.


 ;D

COOL !!!!!!

Haven't said much about my car for a while, other than that other discussion about the sticky lifters. I still haven't done the 500klm since I put the 'lifter free' additive in the car. lol Took her for a run today, and was planing on keeping her out there for a while, but she had other ideas. Maybe because the weather is starting to turn cold, and she wanted to return to her warm garage. lol Anyway, not long out and I was driving along a back/loop road, and all of a sudden, I loose power. Foot still on the loud pedal, but going nowhere slow. As I was heading down hill, I figured I'd keep going. At least I didn't have any traffic behind me at the time. In the end I pulled over due to a car approaching from behind, and the hill was leveling out a bit, enough to stop me. Got out of the car, and blipped the throttle from inside the engine bay. Not much at first, and was thinking maybe the accelerator was catching/binding on the tube/pipe it passes through. Then as I blipped it again, it roared into life. I hopped back in and made tracks for home. Until I got to the bottom of the hill, and it happened again. This time I pumped the loud pedal again, and a few minutes later I was driving back home. Made it back too, without having to get a tow truck. I'm just hoping it was a bit clagged up, and will put some injector cleaner in it next time I fill up.

Oh yeah, also when I got home, the handbrake 'broke', the button popped out and the pawl wasn't in the right orientation. So I had to fix it, at least it only took about 30 minutes. lol

Ok, so Iv'e just updated the topic about the motor noise, but in brief, it wasn't a sticky lifter I had, it was a dodgy fuel pump. It makes a really loud 'tapping' noise, and it's not far from the engine/lifter I thought was sticking. Also hopefully the cause of my loss of power. It's at a mechanics now, hopefully I can pick it up next week.

I had the last two days off work this week due to a upper respiratory tract infection (huzzah! NOT!), and haven't been able to concentrate on one thing for long. So I finished something I started a little while ago for the car;

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearbox001_zps8ddf0949.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearbox002_zps11512219.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearbox003_zpse52d3b9e.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearbox004_zps3acb23e7.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearbox005_zps05b1fa26.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearbox006_zps74406d19.jpg)

Basically, I had a leak in the roof of the garage, and it leaked on my new cv/axles. :( Had a little rust on one of the axle shafts when I noticed it. So it got a bit of a clean, rust converter, then needed paint. When and bought some engine enamel, painted the axle shafts a gloss black, then realised the gearbox arrived with a flat black, and wasn't a great coat either. So, the gearbox got a lick of paint. At least it will be hiding under the car, so it won't show up the paintwork on the body.  lol

Nice clean looking g/box, Cyco, but I think that green sump extension is going to destroy your ground clearance!

Thanks Ted! lol, yeah I thought that green extension was going to play havoc with my ground clearance, which is why I decided to remove it. That and it wouldn't fit in the passengers seat when I took it down to Simons the other week. Simon's working on my reek at the moment, putting in the new gearbox, fuel tank and exhaust. Most likely won't make it for the meet, but it still has to be done, my old fuel tank was full of crap and destroying my fuel pump, and the exhaust was totally blown around half the circumference!! I'll have to post up a couple of photos in the next day or so.     

Does that mean we will miss your glowing personality or are you coming by alternate transport?

I'll either bum a lift or go by Purvis Camry.  lol

Hi Cyco
If you bring the Camry you could take home my trailer with a load of Web Goat's TA Radials. Plus gear boxs + steering wheels ect. ect.
Just a thought,  Morris.

I see what you're trying to do there Morris! lol Won't work, there isn't a tow bar on the Camry.   :D

Here's a couple of photos Simon sent me. What the hell is that crud on the nosecone of the old gearbox?!? Also, the front gearbox mount is different. Will have to sort that out. The old one was the double stud, the new gearbox is a triple stud.

And we found out something very interesting. Some may have noticed the oil cooler mounted between the engine and the rear of the car. I was told it was an oil cooler. But it isn't. It's another radiator. Looks like it is either a re-purposed oil cooler or air con do hicky. But when it was disconnected, it was holding 4 liters of coolant! My car takes 10 liters, now we know why. Will also go some way of explaining why it almost never leaves warm up cycle, had two radiators (and an intercooler).

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/frontgearboxmount_zpsa9fa6e36.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/gearboxout_zpsfe4b382a.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/engineout_zps85d1daef.jpg)

The intercooler will need to be repositioned, as the piping for it goes through the space for the new fuel tank. Something I've known for a while, but others might not, is that the intercooler is mounted up under the elephant ear on the drivers side. Here's the thing, they cut most of the 'pocket' out and 'flush mounted' it to the body tub. So there will be a largish hole under that elephant ear.

Hmm, Ted, any chance that the remains of the wrecked 'reeks you have have that intake intact? That and I'd still like to nab the under bonnet area as well at some point.  ;)

Hi Cyco, I think I am seeing double or you have a big mirror next to your car. lol

I think that I can supply you the intake area for either side, under the elephant ear. If the car is at Simons, I can see it and ensure that I have enough to fill your car's hole. ( leave it alone!)

I can also supply the front bonnet floor area, either new or cut from the white shell I have.

Let me know if you are interested and I will arrange to visit Simon.

   Ted

Had me puzzled for a second. lol That other 'reek apparently belongs to a guy called Rod. Simon's working on it after he's finished mine. If I've got it straight, it has a 12A rotory in it that needs work. But the Rod also got a 13b Turbo (without the turbo), that's meant to be in better condition. So he wants that put in instead of the 12A.

Didn't think about a new section. The front section isn't needed for a while yet anyway. And yeah, it is at Simons now, so if you want a look call Simon. Just the intake area is needed.  Thanks.   ;D

Ok, so I thought that while the 'reek was away, I'd play. With some fiberglassing. First time for everything right? And besides, I still have some time up my sleeve.

Before the car went to Sydney, I did make up some rough cardboard templates. Rough indeed, as the cardboard was really too thin to stop deforming. But eh, doesn't matter. If it doesn't work, it's all just a learning experience.

So, if photos say 1000 words, then this must be a novella;

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing001_zps32fa8c39.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing002_zps5c08a66b.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing003_zps3787363b.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing004_zps701a14b2.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing005_zps854be9a8.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing006_zpsb24eed0c.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing007_zps03e4b028.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing008_zps5e2c1aa0.jpg)

That was two days work. Don't know how long it took to lay up the fiberglass, think it was in order of around 8 to 10 songs from memory. Maybe 12. lol Then wait over night and peel it off the table. I could have spread out the wax a bit further, as it got a little stuck, so it took a little convincing to let go. But once it started, it came away fairly easily.

That's as far as I got. Obviously, you'll see I didn't have quite enough fiberglass matting. I had bought one of those Diggers Fiberglass Kit 1 (http://www.recochem.com.au/index.php/products/consumer_products/fibreglass/item/diggers_diy_fibreglass_kits), which only has .25m² of matting and 250mm of resin.

I had that bucket in my garage for the last two years, figured I may as well use it. lol So I've bought the same sized bucket again just so I can hopefully finish this thing. I probably won't even need all the fiberglass in this second bucket. Famous last words. lol

So maybe over the next day or so I'll see if I can knock thing doodad up. Even if my dodgy template turns out to be exactly that, dodgy, I may have lost some time & materials, but I'll have gained something worth more than the entire exercise. Knowledge & Experience.

Feel free to ask questions and offer critiques. Oh, and see if you can guess what I'm working on.  

 :D  

Oh

Handbrake console thingy?

Give that man a kewpie doll!!

Yeah, thought I'd have a go at making something to go over the handbrake, as I detest the bloody rubber cover on mine. Though I think I've made it too high. It could also double as an arm rest, but I still think it's too high. All I've done so far since last time is to cut the pieces out. I'll upload them later. I may try to assemble it later or over the weekend. 

Sorry to bust your surprise so quickly.
I did notice you made comment on mine at the meet and just put it together.

Interesting manner of construction.

I made mine up thinking it was to be plug but then just covered it.
It does work well. Tidies up that bit, looks better and is easier on your arm
Keep the pics coming

Clever deduction, Holmes!   :D

And you know, I forgot to take a photo of you handbrake cover thingy. lol

There are a couple of reasons I'm making it this way. One is that it's dead simple to lay up a flat sheet of fiberglass. Look, even I've done it. That bit isn't that hard. Sure, it's got a few small bubbles in it, but I'm not overly worried, it's not like it's a structural part of the car. Secondly, there's another technique I've read about I want to try, and it kinda requires flat sheets of fiberglass.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing009_zpsd31e8d7d.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing010_zps57330dd3.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing012_zps97bdd8e4.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing011_zps23904c48.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing014_zps79d05462.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing013_zps800974c7.jpg)

It's just held together by the masking tape in these photos, not actually assembled yet. Just a test fit. My top piece ended up just a tad short, but it should still work out ok with what I have planned.

I forgot something that I had marked on my templates, so I'm working on that. And I'm tossing around an idea of adding in a storage compartment on the top. Not sure yet, and not sure how deep I want to make it yet.

Ok, I've done a little more work on this. Not actual fiberglassing, but still moving forward.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing015_zpsd929db27.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing016_zps9d519fa5.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing017_zps547fdde4.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing018_zps9f87ed63.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing019_zpsf245ec6d.jpg)

Pocketeses! What's the pocketeses for, my precious?

Seatbelt clip. The bit attached to the tunnel. Not to totally recess it, but to give it some more room. At least, I hope so. I made up another flat sheet around 10" square so I can make up some other flat sections I have in mind for this. What doesn't get used will be spare flat fiberglass sheet. The pockets are just held together with hot glue. I plan on a little bit of fiberglassing behind the pocket, and maybe a little on the outer side. Not 100% sure on that yet.

Oh yeah. I have no full sized clamps, and I can't find my set of hobby clamps, which would have been perfect for this project. Shame, they were a old cast steel set too. So I'll be buying some clamps, but I was already on planing to get some anyway. So I just tacked them to the table top with my hot glue gun, hopefully so they'll keep their shape. IE, flat.  lol

Ok, it's been a couple of weeks since my last update on my handbrake thingy. But I have been working on it in bits and pieces, and kept leaving the camera in the garage. lol Oh, there was a kinda secret squirrel business, but it really isn't that secret, as I understand it's fairly common in fiberglassing, at least in boating circles. 

So, so I glassed in the back of those pockets for the seat belt clip to make sure they're good and strong. Had some issues with bubbles, wasn't sure if it was because I used hot melt glue to assemble them, or it was reacting to the permanent marker I used to mark out where I was making my cuts (could see it 'bleed' when the resin hit it), or most likely, just my lack of skill. I let it dry and then hit it with my dremmel to open the bubbles up and filled them with resin, which seemed to work ok. Not that it matters much, as this side will be on the inside. So you won't see it anyway.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing020_zps96bc51dd.jpg)

Then I had an idea that wasn't in my original plan. A recess on the top to keep small things in, like loose change for example. So I then cut a piece out of the top section, and went to work in making a recess into it.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing021_zps35f82155.jpg)

Used some tape to hold it together to give me an idea of how it would look.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing022_zps0cc53429.jpg)

I ended up with some gaps between the upper surface and the inner sides. Didn't worry me much, as this is where the secret squirrel bit comes in. You can use body filler to get a radius curve in the fiberglass.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing023_zpse0050318.jpg)

Still, I thought I'd add some fiberglass to the top as well as underneath to get some extra thickness.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing024_zps60841741.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing025_zpsb6867088.jpg)

Before the next step, thought I'd clean the part up so I can see what's going on.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing026_zps28ccc78b.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing027_zps28295e6d.jpg)

I forgot to get photos of the next bit, but basically I laid up some fiberglass over the body filler.

The next bit is the second bit of the secret squirrel bit. You then grind/sand the fiberglass on the top to get through to the added fiberglass underneath. The idea being that you grind/sand though the outer fiberglass then the body filler, leaving you with the fiberglass under the body filler, and a radius curve or at least a nice rounded curve.

I probably should have left it at this stage, and bugger the body filler and extra fiberglass.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing028_zps2ae78767.jpg)

And instead, I got carried away.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing029_zpsd3cc1ad7.jpg)

Some areas under the body filler the fiberglass was thin, and I sanded straight through it in a flash. So I ended up adding more fiberglass back on top of the piece, so I could then have another crack at it. I didn't take any photos of this stage. I added several layers of fiberglass and then sanded/ground it back down, but the curve isn't as bad as the first attempt. Still too much of a curve, but that's cool, I can live with it.

I also tacked the assembly together with hot melt glue, and then hit the undersides of the corners again with body filler. And today, I was a bit bored so I decided to go out and fiberglass in the inside of the corners.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing030_zps222debe2.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing031_zps701fc2c5.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing032_zpsbd2c5d33.jpg)

I didn't take any photos of fiberglassing over the corners, but I'll try and remember when I go and work on it again. Which will probably be mid next week.

That brings me up to date.   ;)

I had one of them arm-rest handbrake covers before, but didn't much care for it.
I ditched it for a plain old leather boot from supercheap.

The one on the car now is a ugly piece of rubber that's also torn. This was just something that came to mind to try and make. It could have been a fiberglass drink holder. The main idea behind it was to try and make something out of fiberglass and learn something new.

There is a lot of pleasure to gain from finishing your creation and saying " I made that!"

After all, Eureka is the car for the individual.

         Ted

Ok, so I have a little time on my hands and thought I should work on this some more.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing033_zps9ab55f5f.jpg)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing034_zps05b84529.jpg)

I've rounded off the corners, kinda can see it in the photos. Then I added some body filler to the top. After I had to bulk up the top after 'rounding' the pocket recess too far, it left it with an uneven surface. So I thought I'd try and use the body filler to smooth it out. Will be doing some more sanding in the near future. lol

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y105/cycoholic/My%20Eureka%20F4/fiberglassing035_zpsbb73ece0.jpg)

The more alert of you will note that there isn't a Eureka in the garage or my daily driver on the driveway. I find myself in an awkward place, having two cars, but both are away being worked on. Getting a dent fixed on the Camry, hopefully will be ready late tomorrow arvo.