The Purvis Eureka Forum

Hi Guys,
Been a while since an update.
My toy has been sitting at work for a little while while I'm rewiring it.
There was an issue with the ignition module, which I only found after 2 coils decided to leak their guts everywhere.
Anyway, decided to remove all the old wiring which was not so pretty, and replace it with new ones, hopefully killing any bugs it.
I also didn't like the colors from before, now its red for power, black for ground, various other colors as desired.


(Sorry about the fingerprint on the camera)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0247.jpg)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0248.jpg)

Everything behind the dash is being replaced with a CAN bus, so I all these wires will be no more soon.
Eventually it will be just power, ground, signal+ signal-... Then it can all be hooked into a PC for remote control and logging.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0249.jpg)

New fuses and relays in the back, with additional +12V terminals for easy connection when screwing around back there.

(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0250.jpg)

See all the wires scattered around the place? No? Me either  ;)

Awesome. Great to see you're still alive and posting. She's a schmick unit.

 ;)

Mr Guy,

What is the make of V6 you have in the back?  I am running a Mazda MX6 V6 in the British Eureka.  160 horses (According to the box it cam out of) and a lot of fun (Just ask Phil from SA.)

I too had to cut a lot og the back end awy to fit over the donk & the fuel tank is in the front.

Bushboy

Hi mate,
Yeah, yours is the only other V6 Ive heard of.
This one is a PRV engine (Perugot, Renault, Volvo) same as the Delorean.
They're usually around 2.6ish Litres, but Ive been told that this one has been bored out closer to 3.
90deg V, which has uneven ignition timing, so it has been said that it sounds rough at idle, but it sounds beautiful to me.
I'm not sure what its donor was, but it looks like an older of the PRV models, which has been converted from carby to fuel injected.
Its got an aussie made microTech EFI system, which I guess was designed for rotarys, but works ok with the six cyl. Still needs some throttle position feedback, it's just using an idle switch and vacuum at the moment.

Just finished swapping the ancient hand-made ignition module out for a bosch integrated HEI package. After mixing up the cylinder numbering (apparently they don't like firing on the intake stroke), and fiddling with the reluctor polarity, she fired up beautifully yesterday after sleeping for a few months.

Ill get her onto the dyno at work soon and see how many ponies and killer wasps are crammed in there.

Yeh

I can testify that Bushboy's V6 is fast.
We went for a spin and I got back before we left  whistle

Long weekend means I can get some work done.

New fuse-box for the front of the car, with a AVR microcontroller and another one in the cabin. Connected with 3 wires for communicating between each other.
This means I could remove all of the fused power wires that were fed into the cabin to the various switches/indicators etc, that were then fed back to the front of the car to the blinker unit and lights etc, and then fed back into the cabin again to blink the indicator indicators.
Cabin wiring is now going to be just high impedance connections that are switched to ground, nice and safe.
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0495_zpsc986541d.jpg)
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0396_zps23d90c4f.jpg)

Trying to fix a leak in the pneumatics, replaced the upstream hose, downstream hose, before finding a crack in the regulator housing.
$40 and a new regulator later and it pressurises nicely. Immobiliser connected to my microcontroller unit controls the air solenoids so the roof goes up and down smoothly.

Steering wheel screws often came loose, so a new adapter plate (that also brings it closer to me, now i can stretch my legs) has been made. Lots of aluminium to bolt into now, and fresh taps mean its not coming loose anytime soon.

New leather gear knob and handbrake handle and boot

Oil change and shine.
(http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr166/eurekacarclub/Member%20Rides/V6%20PL30/IMAG0457_zps43326802.jpg)

Sounds like a very neat car is becoming neater.  8)

At least some get the long weekend off, I'm working straight through it. Although my pay will be nicely padded out because of it.  lol

I don't think I realized that your canopy was pneumatic. I've seen a few attempts to make the canopy pneumatic, but they never worked, or were to violent. Could you perhaps take a video of your canopy opening & closing.

Finally got around to fixing everything for a video-worthy demo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbuWqY3qjI0

I got a four button remote to replace the single button one that I had previously.

1. Engage air compressor. - It used to be automatic, but it would slowly leak down and recompress whenever the pressure got too low -> expensive battery replacements.

2. Open/Close canopy. - Toggle open/close. The microcontroller in the car takes care of the valve timing/latching.

3. Fuel prime. - Dumps a load of fuel into the manifold before cranking to wet all of the surfaces with fuel. This is a trick we programmed into kick-start bikes at work to get them to fire on the first kick. It also gives a good flare up when it fires, which is nice when using the remote start.

4. Remote start. - Yay.

Now I just have to remember not to leave it in gear when I park.   :o

Oh, and accidental burnout when leaving the car-wash. Them suds are slippery apparently.  whistle :police:

Excellent stuff!! Especially the wiring. Looks like the pneumatics need a tad more 'oof' to open the roof up quicker. But other than that, she's grouse mate!!

 ;D

Yeah, there is just enough oomph to open when the targa tops are removed, which is how I usually drive it.
I didnt have the compressor fully charged either.

New dash and its done.

Hi Mr_guy, just wondering what transmission you have in that car and whether or not a neutral start switch can be fitted?

Cheers

Not sure what transmission it is, its a four speed something... any ideas?
I've been told that there are pretty strict laws around remote start over here, so I've taken it out just to be on the safe side.

Going to Pedders today to get the suspension looked at. Stiffer, higher.
I'm no so into the looow rider setup. I think that they look better jacked up like rally cars.

Would have had a plate on it once probably, no words on the main casing? Deloreans were a 4 speed auto or 5 speed manual so I'm guessing its neither of those boxes. Perhaps a Volkswagen box then, any chance of a decent picture?

Or Renault 367 is a possibility too that would probably mate easily with the prv engine. Is your engine at the back or midmount?

Pedders came back to me and said:
"You've got some strange coil-over suspension in the front end (rear end too?), VWs have torsion bars, we don't know what it is, and can't do much with it."

Any ideas?

Hey,

You can buy cheap coil over type shock for VW's for about $60 a pair. They help support the torsion bars not replace them. It could be those, did they take one of to see if it sags all the way down?

G'day Aaron, your Reek always had coilovers on the back even before Russell owned it due to the extra weight of the Volvo donk and from memory the front torsion bars had sagged like most of them have so I'm not surprised to hear that it has coilovers on the front as well.

However, new adjustable ones are still readily available from Classic Vee Dub in NSW :) here's the links to them;
Front coilovers - https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=16920 (https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=16920)
Rear coilovers - https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=15237 (https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/part_detail.aspx?parts_id=15237)

I have the rear ones on my Sports 'cause it's easier than doing it properly by adjusting the rear torsion bars like you're supposed to. ;D whistle  Actually adjusting the torsion bars is relatively quick and easy but having to remove and re-install the bloody side pods on a Reek with IRS rear end is a complete pain in the butt and takes a few hours! >:( :'(

Standard VW H-beam frontends are not height adjustable so unless yours has a "Sway-a-way" or similar adjustable beam in it then adjustable coilovers are definitely the go.

Too easy really,

Good luck,

PP.
for life.

Thanks for the information.

It sounds like I might have a combination of torsion bars and coil-overs then, I don't know VWs, so I assumed that the coil-overs were it.
Those adjustable ones look mighty familiar... The problem is that they are already adjusted up to full pre-load, and I need more height.

It sounds like correctly adjusting or replacing the torsion bars with bigger ones should give me the results I need?
Otherwise fatter springs for the coil-overs, but they sound hard to source judging by Pedders' reaction.

Side-pod removal is not possible on mine, it's all one smooth piece, but I only really need more height in the front, which I think comes off still.
Perhaps the Pedders guys didn't want to start poking around when they couldn't see what was in there due to the fiberglass. If I removed the bottom section maybe it would be easier to get some more advice.

Thanks guys.

I don't think changing the spring will adjust the height of your car but will affect the stiffness of the suspension so to speak. The torsion bar is the way to go and I think the settings are in the eureka manual. I will check tomorrow if I think about it. When I think about it actually because I will need to know now! Otherwise I have recollections of somebody doing something like a small lift kit or similar so I'll try and locate that thread as well.

I thought that a stiffer spring will sink less under the weight of the car, so should be slightly higher.
Stiffer springs are always nice anyway.

Edit: Just watched a youtube video showing how the front-end works. Should be straightforward enough to just re-index the springs to get the correct height.
Its just a lot of work to get to the springs.