Linear Actuator VS air lift

[mjm]

hi all i have been considering changing my air lift roof over on my pl30 i like the air lift as it is really fast but if your not used to it can be scary for people in the car the other issue is it does not suck down to the body like the original system and i have latches to hold the roof down i remember reading a while ago a discussion on changing to Linear actuators i belive they where electric how would i go about purchasing and fitting these or would i better sticking with the air lift?

Cheers Matt

[CyCo]

I'd be careful with the air lift, as I understand it's hard to regulate the speed of the rams. There's a video on Youtube showing a 'reek with  pneumatics for the lifters. Looks fairly drastic to me. I'd be worried about cracking the windscreen.

A lot of us use Linak actuators. We have a contact within the Australian Branch of Linak, a fellow by the name of Cameron. He's also a member of our forum, Linak Cam.

When I got mine, they were about $800.00 delivered. And that's with the club discount. If you're not a member, they would have been about $1800.00. Though keep in mind the price probably has gone up in the last few years. If you send an email to sales@linak.com.au , and have Eureka in the subject line, it will get through to Cameron. I'd probably have something like this in the subject line; Attention Cameron, actuators for Eureka. That should work.

Some people have used electric actuators from convertibles, like Mustangs, etc. Look around and there are a few options available.

[mjm]

 thanks for the info CYCO
as you may know i have teds old yellow subaru turbo powered pl30 the roof is not as fast as the one on u tube i have never worked on any of my 3 purvis roofs before alway been reliable for me, fitting the electric set up if i purchase it maybe the next problem but i will contact them and see how i go.

Cheers Matt

[CyCo]

No probs. Cameron is a top bloke. When I burnt out my Linak actuators last year, he was very helpful in getting them repaired. Think it cost me about $440 to repair both actuators. The actuators were not at fault, it was a faulty switch.

[mjm]

thanks CYCO i have left a message for cameron i will see how i go i have looked at other options for the roof over the last 12 months such as the convertable motor but i was just concerned if it would work and what one do i buy it seems to be a cheaper option which i like i really would like to keep the air lift if i could get it to hold the roof to the body without the latches but i dont have a clue about doing this i did not mind the original electric/hyd i had with my last two eurekas i have decided not to sell the eureka as i was going to buy a Countach replica but could not find a good one in australia.

[CyCo]

You should be able to get pneumatics to 'lock down' when the roof is closed on the Eureka. It would be the choice of either the ram or the pump. You'd have to find out which one would still be holding pressure whilst the roof is down, at least to my way of thinking. At one point I was thinking of going with pneumatics for the roof, as I was also thinking about airbag suspension, thus being about to only use one tank, with maybe a smaller secondary tank as a backup. Was even looking at carbon fiber tanks, as they only split in an accident, not explode like steel ones.

[the phantom mechanic]

Hi chaps,

Not being able to see it, its hard to say but I would imagine the air lift would work in one of two ways. First is air lift and gravity lower. Air cylinder has one supply hose and then dumps air through valve to lower. I'm guessing this is what you have. The other way is air up an down. Which would have two hoses and push the canopy open and push it shut. That would in theory not need the safety latch but I would keep it in case. The linaks work that way with drive up and down and would be difficult to override. The double acting air cylinder could be easy to override depending on where the system fails so the latch is a good idea. So it can be done as air with double acting cylinders and a different valve but in my opinion the linaks are the better option. For clarification I don't have a eureka and never had have but I do repair a lot of vehicles with raising sign boards, solar panels, etc. Something to think about anyway, hope it helps,
Cheers
Shane

[mjm]

Hi Shane
yes i belive you are correct with your first comment on how my roof works but i would like to set it up so it pulls down but i not sure about how i could change this and you have stated this could be hard to do. i have only looked at the compressor which is hidden above the front steering tunnel looks like its a 4x4 tyre pump you can purchase from places like auto pro/auto barn Ect but i really do appreciate anyone's comments or ideas i dont really want to spend a whole heap of money if i dont need to.

[the phantom mechanic]

Probably best to visit a pneumatucs shop and show them what you've got. However I wouldn't rely only on air to hold it down because an air leak or compressor failure will allow roof to move. Sounds like you also have no reserve air as in a tank. So more potential issues. Roughly where are you? Surprised we haven't heard from others with air roofs but they are probably not common.

[mjm]

hi shane
i am in canberra i have also looked at another air system its an air bag set up on ebay, i was also thinking about putting air shocks/springs up front but was unsure what ones would fit and i was planning on running the roof from the same system also.

[CyCo]

Have a look in some of the dedicated VW magazines. There are mobs out there that do air bag suspension for VW, including the classic Bugs and Busses. They usually have ads in the VW magazines.   

[The Metalsmith]

Hi guys,
             I have a fair bit of experience with air bag installs. I asked my mate Brian at Probag (02 4261 3742) awhile ago specifically about an airbag setup for a reek when I was thinking about a system for mine. He said he has dedicated front and rear airbag/struts that bolt straight in and showed me pics of a radical chopped and channelled Beetle bottoming out on it's floor pan.

I do know there's enough room inside the side walls of a reek for a single or multiple 9 litre reservoir set up with as many pumps as you like, so this idea is easily possible.  As far as roof operation is concerned, you'd need an electrically operated two way valving system similar to an hydraulics system on a reek. Power up and power down. Once again, fairly common stuff and readily available from suppliers like Pirtek or Enzed.

Personally though I'd go with Linak lifters and a stand alone airbag suspension setup. I don't like the idea of both those critical systems failing at the same time.  

     Simon

[ShawnK]

Hi guys,
             I have a fair bit of experience with air bag installs. I asked my mate Brian at Probag (02 4261 3742) awhile ago specifically about an airbag setup for a reek when I was thinking about a system for mine. He said he has dedicated front and rear airbag/struts that bolt straight in and showed me pics of a radical chopped and channelled Beetle bottoming out on it's floor pan.

I do know there's enough room inside the side walls of a reek for a single or multiple 9 litre reservoir set up with as many pumps as you like, so this idea is easily possible.  As far as roof operation is concerned, you'd need an electrically operated two way valving system similar to an hydraulics system on a reek. Power up and power down. Once again, fairly common stuff and readily available from suppliers like Pirtek or Enzed.

Personally though I'd go with Linak lifters and a stand alone airbag suspension setup. I don't like the idea of both those critical systems failing at the same time.  

     Simon

Are you still doing this? I need some assistance with my airbag installation. Not for free, of course. Send me a PM, please.