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Author Topic: Second build, deep in thought...  (Read 11311 times)
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Billy
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« on: Wednesday, 25 February, 2009, 02:51:16 PM »

G'day all,

I'm currently planning on a second build over here in Perth, WA.  My first build was back in Scotland and was a MK2 Nova, unfortunately I had to sell her and have been dreaming about another build ever since  Smiley

I'm not entirely sure if it will be feasible to start a build from scratch as I don't yet know how available parts are over here in Australia, I would like to buy the donor VW asap and get a head start but will also look into buying a run down Eureka to play with if the parts are too hard to find.

Any information is very appreciated

Thanks in advance
Billy


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Philinsa
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REEK38


« Reply #1 on: Wednesday, 25 February, 2009, 04:12:50 PM »

Welcome aboard Billy

I'd say Go For It.

I'm nearly finished my second build. Started it in November 2007.
A number of parts were missing, but patience and this Forum has helped greatly, (except, I'm still short of a VDO Speedo guys).

If you get stuck, there's always someone on the other end of your computer that has been there, tried it, done that, and doesn't mind telling you so. Its great. Grin
Got my seats & fuel cap from NSW, steering wheel from QLD, roof hinges from Vic and lots of tips & tricks from everywhere.
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Eureka, 1:1 Scale Model, no glue required, suitable for ages 38 & up. Caution: Confined Space, small parts enclosed. May induce hair loss. I have "Side Intrusion" Bars and "Roll" Bar on board but No "JC" Bars fitted.
CyCo
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WWW
« Reply #2 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 12:41:29 AM »

Kits are no longer made, so you'll be almost guaranteed to get a 'reek that is in need of a rebuild. It would be best to find one with previous rego, as that way it will have a known history. 
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Eureka? Youbetcha!   8]

swish1
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« Reply #3 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 09:32:35 AM »

Reeks in WA seem to be thin on the ground or i am looking in the wrong places . Best place i have found to pickup your VW over here is in the Quokka paper [ our answer to the trading post ] out on thursdays . Good luck with your search and may the best man win ,
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cruetoone
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« Reply #4 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 11:36:00 AM »

Have you seen the one on this forum for sale having trouble finding a buyer for some time now in WA...
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34hup
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« Reply #5 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 01:20:57 PM »

There is also one around the corner from me with an awsome 13B Turbo and microtech was a 10sec car in its original rx7 will be leathal in the Eureka. it is on a sound IRS chassis with new feet on the ground needs finishing interior and paint. 15k. He paid 18k and has done alot of work since then but ran into trouble with his partner. Now he needs to clear some debt. Still rego in WA. PM me for more details.

Kym
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swish1
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« Reply #6 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 02:03:32 PM »

Message sent hope it worked ,Craig
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Billy
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« Reply #7 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 03:30:45 PM »

Yea,

Havn't seen any in Perth until today, we took a trip over to Ballajura to see the yellow eureka for sale.  The kit would have made a great project and required a complete rebuild to get back to it's original condition.  Unfortunately the owner was looking for his money back on the eureka and was looking for around $11,000 and wouldn't be feasible for a rebuild, I valued the car at $3000. 

I decided to start looking for the donor VW next week and start from fresh, does anyone have any comments on which year VW are optimim use for the chassis? (As my first build was from a run down eureka, there wasn't a choice to make on which chassis to use)

I've read on the modifications manual that the optimum chassis would be off a 1302/1303 chassis and have the Mcpherson strut frame head cut off and replaced with a front torsion bar, how involved is the surgery to the front strut frame head? Everyones opinion on this topic will be a great help.

Billy       
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The Metalsmith
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« Reply #8 on: Thursday, 26 February, 2009, 10:32:52 PM »

Hi Billy,
          Welcome to the site. Your best bet with finding a chassis is to go for the latest model beetle you can find that has IRS and a torsion bar front end. Cutting and shutting what you want from a McPherson strut arrangement is an un-necessary stuff around.

     Having said that, I'd still recommend starting with a reek that has rego, recent rego or a solid checkable history. Rego requirements are probably not as strict over there as they are in the eastern states, but it's surely got to be easier to re-rego one than go through the whole process from the start.


     I'd be cruising over to Kym's place to have a look at the one round the corner from him. 10 sec rotary in a reek? Oooh yeah baby! Come to daddy...

     Simon




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He's out there, somewhere, hoping to finish his reek before he's too old to drive it....
Billy
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« Reply #9 on: Friday, 27 February, 2009, 12:25:41 AM »

Thanks for the info Simon, Wish I had the cash mate  Grin  I'd be around there in a heartbeat!

I've got my eye on a couple of VW chassis this weekend, I'll keep you posted if I purchase one of them.
Do you have any suggestions for manuals/books on 'tuning' the VW chassis, I've got the knowledge to do some basic mods but thats about it (Floorpan Drop / Lever repositioning etc).... 

Billy 
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Philinsa
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REEK38


« Reply #10 on: Friday, 27 February, 2009, 02:11:20 AM »

I've found the "HAYNES - VW Beetle & Karmann Ghia 1954 to 1979 - Repair Manual" No. 96008, based on a complete strip-down, to be a great help.
The only minor problem I've found is that it is based on a left-hand drive, so some of the instructions need to be thought about when it says things like, "on the driver's side".

Should be available at your VW Specialist Parts Shop
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Eureka, 1:1 Scale Model, no glue required, suitable for ages 38 & up. Caution: Confined Space, small parts enclosed. May induce hair loss. I have "Side Intrusion" Bars and "Roll" Bar on board but No "JC" Bars fitted.
swish1
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« Reply #11 on: Friday, 27 February, 2009, 06:31:53 AM »

I have found the regulations for WA licence are some of the hardest to comply to , it surprises me the red one that went to SA is having difficulty getting licenced . Starting from scratch is a long hard road over here , it can be done but red tape is the killer . First thing you need is approved engineer to run through your plans to see if it can be built to pass regs .
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CyCo
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« Reply #12 on: Friday, 27 February, 2009, 08:12:57 AM »

Always talk to your engineer before a build. If you don't have an engineer, locate one.

I think this should be Golden Rule #1 if buying a 'reek to restore/rebuild. They'll let you know what you can, and can't do, before you potentially waste your monies.

If you can locate a copy of How to keep your Volkswagen Alive, A manual of step by step procedures for the Complete Idiot, by John Muir, it's a worth while purchase. I happened to spot one in a second hand book store and snapped it up. I got a 15th edition, apparently they go up to 19th. It does have a 'hi po' section in it, but is more useful for general maintenance/repairs. The illo's are very clear and easy to understand.  Oh, it's American, so it's speaks as left hooker, like the Haynes book suggested by Phil.


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redreek(the stig)
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« Reply #13 on: Friday, 27 February, 2009, 09:34:34 AM »

if you can get one a 1968 with irs rear and ball joint front end floorpan is the way to go.
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barab13
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« Reply #14 on: Friday, 27 February, 2009, 11:19:55 AM »

hello 34hup any chance on some details on the reek round the corner,13btubo, considering billy aint cashed up for it and prefers to build one. george  aka  barab13
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