The Purvis Eureka Forum
Sunday, 25 October, 2020, 02:28:51 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: This FORUM is brought to you by the members of the Purvis Eureka Car Club of Australia.
Please consider supporting the CLUB supporting MARQUE by becoming a Club Member
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7 ... 10
 21 
 on: Tuesday, 19 May, 2020, 11:36:51 AM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by CyCo
Disappointed that there aren't any valves used in the dash cluster.  Whistle

Paint is looking good.    Afro

 22 
 on: Tuesday, 19 May, 2020, 05:15:54 AM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by shonko
Looking good  Cool

I have posted on FB

PS Will have to pick up the jukebox soon, now restrictions have lifted Smiley

 23 
 on: Monday, 18 May, 2020, 12:53:06 PM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by The Green Reek
Starting Electrics
At last I got to the electrics this weekend.
First jobs were to redo the dash and console.
I keep them both very much old school but neater.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9xCe3naVtpDZwaPD8
I tested the old loom by plugging everything in and NOTHING worked.
Too old, Been lying idle too long and too much corrosion.
Start again time. Saving as much wire as possible but with my own circuits and all new connectors.
Pic 1 is test gear. You don't need much to do a new loom but to pick apart an old one an cable tracer and signal injector save a lot of time.
Pics 2 and 3 are the old console vs the new one.
4 and 5 are the updated dash (almost - hazard switch not fitted).
6 and 7 - Now what to keep. Answer not much. I'll try to keep the more expensive heavy gauge wires but I hate splicing all through wires so most of it has to go.
8 although hard to see is me laying out most of the power control circuitry in the tub.
I don't know why people wire cars with multiple high current lines traveling the length of the car or even into the cabin.
Cabins are for controls not current. I will keep the high current lines as short as possible.
Pic nine is how not to splice everywhere. This is my cabin GND or more correctly 0v bus bar. The old loom ground wire had at least 8 spiced wires. Mine won't.
There are 2 more bus bars in the tub.

Peter

 24 
 on: Monday, 18 May, 2020, 12:25:03 PM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by The Green Reek
This week it was time for an experiment.
The lifting arms where corroded, barley moved and covered in layers of old black enamel paint.
I got them sand blasted back to bare metal.
I thought rather than paint, I'd blue the steel.
With a  good coating it should last for years and look pretty cool too.
Pic Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TnDKMxWxK744evJa9
1 is a before and chemicals.
2 is a before and after
3 is all the other bits curing

About the same cost as painting but it take a bit longer.
 

 25 
 on: Monday, 18 May, 2020, 12:17:08 PM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by The Green Reek
OK a couple of updates.
Last weekend it was finally time to replace the body on the chassis.
Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3nZ8ivM3kupDpKRe9
Pretty much self explanatory.


 26 
 on: Thursday, 30 April, 2020, 09:40:09 AM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by INSTRO
Love those jukebox pics , the paint looks great Peter.  Regards Richard L

 27 
 on: Monday, 27 April, 2020, 11:39:49 PM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by shonko
Hi Peter,

looking good   Cool

I have posted on FB

Shonko

 28 
 on: Monday, 27 April, 2020, 09:41:38 AM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by The Green Reek
Final Paint Time - Yeh!
Pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/XhVKRHzgUoJUKmAQ6
Pics 1 and 2 are the Jukebox amp of Shaun's that took a little longer than expected. Old school!
3,4 and 5 are because I wasn't satified with the Baslac base coat on the black.
I still got some movement after months. I think my reducer may have been too old.
So I stripped it back and re did it.
6, 7 and 8 are the colour corrected bits now in full 2K clear. Shinny!
9 is prep wash for the body
10 says I need a better exhaust fan.
11 and 12 are the body in 2k.
Time to move on the electrics at last.
Peter

 29 
 on: Tuesday, 14 April, 2020, 07:35:55 AM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by shonko
Hi Peter,

posted on FB, prefaced with my comments

Hey all, it's been a while. Peter explains below, but all I heard was waaa waaa waaa. It hasn't helped project progress the fact that someone has also commissioned him to do a 1956 Seeburg jukebox project (repair) at the same time. That's what happens when you have too many skills.

(looking great, can't wait to see it with the clear coats, it is going to POP!)

 30 
 on: Tuesday, 14 April, 2020, 06:30:26 AM 
Started by The Green Reek - Last post by The Green Reek
Time for an Update guys and possibly gals.
Colour Correction Time.
Unfortunately for IT people the lock down means even more work than usual so I've been a bit too busy to mess with the car for a while.
Of the 8 red bits I'd already painted I chose the best of them to set the base colour for the car.
3 pieces needed colour adjustment after the body was painted as a result.

Pics Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vm5qDwUWUfG3dV7v8

Pic 1 is prep and I decided to get rid of all the ear holes to start clean on fastening them when finished.
2 and 3 are the Baslac Silver going down. About 3 coats.
4 Is as small bit of masking to lay the interior black coat. Note: No point in painting where the carpet will cover it.
5 is what happens when a dumb arse doesn't close the gun cover well enough and puts a black drip on the car.
This colour is a pig for spot repairs.
I had to blend the entire rear panel to get it even.
6 and 7 are the body in final base colour.
As my camera doesn't seem the get this colour right, 8 is an attempt to correct the image at lest on my phone screen. Probably different on your monitor.
9, 10 and 11 are all the other bits now colour corrected to the base body colour.

Not a fun job. This might be the last time I do a blended candy.
So if the weather holds for another couple of weekends I'll get the top coat 2K clear down on all of these.
Peter



Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7 ... 10
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.15 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!