The Purvis Eureka Forum

Saw this in the Courier Mail:

"PURVIS SPACE Eureka track kit car. Rare Collectible, rear mounted 2Lt turbo WRX engine, Z pattern tyres, indy dragway mags, metallic black, unfinished project. Vlaued at $30,000, will sell as is $15,000. Ph 0404962351."

I know nothing about the car or owner, just passing the info onto the group! :)

Wow, sounds like a weapon!! I gather you didn't ring him?

Shonko, I believe your our contact man for QLD, can you get in contact with the current owner and let him know about ECCA and this site? And/or send him a ECCA contact card to pass onto the new owner when/if it sells?

 

i wonder if it's not jennys

Jenny's is red and non turbo

I just realised how funny this is, considering that it was Jenny who posted about finding this in the newspaper.

 :D

I went and looked at it yesterday, took lots of pictures. Will post them later

Ohh neat!! Looking forward to them.

 ;D

did'nt know it was jenny who posted it ::)

So here it is. First of all, it is a eureka, a PL30 even

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0189.jpg)

Its not exactly a track car. I was told that he's had it at Philip Island, back then it had all porsche running gear and engine, but the engine blew when he was doing 271km/hr (he knew exactly because the track people can tell) so he sold the blown engine, took the gearbox and brakes off and sold those too.

(http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/?action-view&current=IMG_0177.jpg) 

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0177.jpg)

It does have an EJ20, but it is an RS liberty engine, not wrx (there are differences, I can elaborate if you like). It's not wired in, nor does it have pipes for the radiator, but it does have an exhaust which looks well done (apparently cost $2k) The rear was cut out like that so the engine would fit in  ???

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0197.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0194.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0182.jpg)

A roll bar, of sorts.

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0183.jpg)

The body etc:

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0185.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0186.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0188.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0180.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0193.jpg)

that hole is there to feed the radiator (which isn't hooked up, nor bolted down, but was working with the porsche engine..)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0190.jpg)

(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/IMG_0191.jpg)

more pictures are here: http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/

 ;)     Thank you? Resin for youre photos and apprasial of this vehicle I guess S.A. dose not need another Eureka, yet. I did have a few supplemental ? about the shell condition stress fractures etc; but youre info is not on the Eureka contact list.
     Again good work mate, David.

Oh, PS: the roof doesn't work either. One of the lifters is broken apparently, and he couldn't tell me if it was electric of hydraulic.

Yeah, can tell the lifters don't work, the roof opens right forward, like mine before I had Simons roof, and that was stopped by parachute cord.

Looks like it would be a strong basis for a rebuild. Will need a total rewiring by the looks, new lifters, sort out the radiator set up, and those look like nice wheels. Floorpan looks like it's needs some TLC. Obviously something has to be done with that poor rear deck amongst other things.

Interior looks fairly good, obviously in need of a good tidy up. And it looks like they've covered over the actuator pocket, so can't wee what it's running for lifters.

One question comes to mind. Where's the battery located? It's not up front, and it's not in with the engine. Maybe behind the seats?

Ho hum.
            Another complete hack job. Unbelievable. Not worth 15. I wonder when we'll come across another like, say, Stuart's for sale?

     Simon

Did I forget to mention that he contacted the people who make eurekas 2 years ago and they said they make them for $50k new? I tried to tell them that none have been made for 20 odd years but he stood by his claim

Err, no you didn't mention that bit. Man, if that were so, we could sell our cars for a tidy profit!!  lol

I agree with Simon in that it's not worth the $15k, though to me I still think it would be a good basis for a rebuild.

Why oh why? Do they do that to there Eureka's?
Would they hack up there ferarri or porsche? I dought it.

Have a look at the rear deck. that would be to bring the engine in from the top i guess. I've seem plenty of Eureka's with subi engines and no huge cut out in the deck.
They've also sliced the rear undersil flat. whats the point in that? and that radiator obviously doesn't fit, so why not get one that does.

I guess these cars are for the individual and you can do to them what you like but why mess with perfection? unless of course you do take to it with an axe you follow through and do it properly.

Liam...........

 

you guess right liam eureka's are for the individual, i doubt they have a innocent intention's in a mind like this...cruel sadistic behaviour we should have them locked up for premedicated vehicular insanity!!!!

Hey Simon,


Your wondering when we will come accross one like mine for sale? It still is!!!!

Just waiting for someone who "Really" wants it, obviously no one so far? Not a nibble.

Ive had my zed for sale as well, only tyre kickers, and even at one stage I advertised it fo $9 grand . . . which is a steal!!!! for an original 91 Nissan 300 ZX with only 60,000 k's & a rare slicktop (hardtop) at that! . . .  basicallly it still like new! . . . smells like new!
So looks like I've now got 6 vehicles to drive now! Ho Humm, well it definately looks like Im gonna have a lot of fun then.

Stu.

looks like those photos got moved here  http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/black%20eureka/

and it has had a big price drop http://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotive/Used-Cars/Small-Medium-Family-Prestige-Cars/AdNumber=TP003284245

Yeah, I'll say. It's gone from 15K, to 10K, now down to a more realistic 8k. Still could probably do with another drop in price though.

Just out of curiosity, what would you guys say that the car is worth at the moment, and roughly how much would it cost to fix the wiring and get the car to RWC condition? Ballpark figures would be fine, I gather that none of you have actually seen the car in the flesh, so we are all just going on the pics, which don't help the seller too much, by the way. The seller claims to have spent "over $25,000" on the car, but he also says that it is a 'Type 2' (PL30?), when it looks more like a Sports to me, going on the angle of the rear boot panel. Would anyone like to help me out here?
Terry

Certainly looks like a sport going by the rear deck, possibly with a F4 roof. Hard to tell as we don't get a great angle on the roof. All he says about the engine is that its a 2l Subaru motor modified for a turbo. So most likely a Liberty motor rather than from a WRX. Needs the engine wired in, probably looking at least a few hundred $$ for that, unless you can do it yourself. If you can't and it needs a complete rewiring, you're more likely looking at least $1000 (what I was quoted, without the car being seen by the auto electrician).

As an example, I bought mine for $11,500. Which was really way too much. I agreed to the price however, because it was on road, so that meant I didn't have to get it engineered, etc. Could have cost me a few grand just there. Mine has a 1.8t Subaru in it, and is an F4 with a totally crap 'paint job'. More realistically, the car I bought was worth around the $8,000 mark. It needed a compete rewire (at mates rates), and really needs that paint job and a complete retrim of the interior as well. After it gets those, maybe it will be worth $15,000.

Back to this black one in QLD. We haven't seen the interior, it may be a basketcase. It isn't on the road. At the very least I imagine it will need a rego inspection (if needed, get the owner to get one for you and if it doesn't pass, certainly rethink buying it). Maybe even need a going over at the pits, costing more $$$.

If the car was complete and on the road (a drive away purchase), it would probably be worth the $10,000 or so. If the interior and paint were done to a high level (say like Kym's), it may even be worth the $18k. If it was an immaculate car, then we're talking the $25k range.  

hope this would be of help to you terry i hate to put a value on this car cause i don't like to offend ...
http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/price_guide_eureka.htmhttp://

also some better photo's if resin has seen it in the flesh ...
http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv306/resin555/black%20eureka/http://

I think $8000 is not unreasonable, still a lot of work required, but going by resin's photos it was registered until June 2002 as a Purvis Eureka sedan black 1968.

Don't know if it had the Porsche gear in it when registered - ie engineered with it, or if it was fitted later - doesn't say anything about engineers report or modification plate, so I'm guessing not.

Looks like the rear deck was chopped to fit an intercooler for the Suby EJ20T (photo 28). Might have some extra work getting that engineeer certified due to power-to-weight ratio (that's why non-turbo EJ20 and EJ22 are 'easier' to get through).

Don't know if all the Suby parts are there - ecu, air flow meter, pressure sensor, alternator belt, start relay, etc.

could not see a fuel tank.

Has IRS with an anti-sway bar at the rear - never seen that before.

Also, if this was a track car & he blew the Porsche motor I'd be wondering the condition of the other parts - tranny, brakes, suspension, etc. but you'd be wondering that with any secondhand purchase.

Thanks for that, it confirms Just Cars price guide of $11k for a condition A (presumably VW-based) car. I wasn't looking to offend anyone either, just after ballpark numbers. Cyco mentioned ~$1k for a rewire, which sounds about right to me, and I figure $3-5k for a decent repaint, and that is before we even talk about fixing the 'mods' to the rear panel and getting a RWC and rego. It looked a bit rough underneath in some of Resin's photos, so probably would need a bit of cancer removal before passing inspection. All in all, not something I would pay fairly big money for. Thanks to all for all your help and suggestions, think I'll pass on this one!   ;)
Terry

Possibly the anti-sway bar was part of the race setup, but I think I would be more worried about the front end 'swaying'!   :)

The 'blowing up' of a Porsche engine on the track was the other thing that worried me -- as you say, there is a good chance that a lot of damage was done to other bits and pieces like trannie, suspension etc, not to mention the possibility of the car headbutting a wall or damaging the floorpan. All in all, looks like I'll pass on this one and wait for an already well-sorted out car.
Terry

Nah, not swaying, lifting. At the speeds he's said he had it up to, the front end lifting would be a problem. I've heard of plenty of these cars without sway bars up front, the front end is light enough that it doesn't seem to need sway bars. And I think any sway bars at the rear would only be light ones if at all.

have you seen this one terry..
http://eurekacarclub.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=58.0http://

the one with the plates "tko" has been sold quite some time ago, i was looking at that before i picked mine up back in october 09 and when i called him he said it had already sold. sorry guys

i remember you saying something about that forgot it was this one..

its all good, i feel that it would have been an easy seller if negotiable on price. if true to his word in regards to the motor it seemed like it would have moved especially with the 48mm? dellorto carbs. for me its too much of a mock up ferrari but i can see the appeal to many people. this one was actually about 20 minutes from my house but when i called to organise a time it had already sold. anyway i really wish the person would have been pushed over to this site, but somehow i doubt it.

 ;D you never know when you google anything purvis eureka the trail leads to us so who know's only time will tell.. :)

Any idea of whether or not he got the $15,250 he was after? Still trying to get an idea of a fair price for good road-going cars like that one, but I am leaning towards a Jap engine rather than a VW. Could change my mind if the right reek came along with a VW engine in it though.

Back in the late 60s a mate of mine who was German had a beetle given to him for his 18th by his dad, who actually did his time as an apprentice at the VW factory in Germany, and the things that they did to that VW engine over time was obscene! I watched him drag off a real Porsche at the local traffic light derby, and V8s were mince-meat to it! Still sounded like a VW though!   :(
Terry

You can sertainly get some hot Bugs!! A hot 1800 with a turbo sure scoots along. And there are ways to reduce or eliminate the 'dak dak' of the exhaust system. And if you go with the Bug donk, you don't have to worry about plumbing for the radiator. Though there is a little more plumbing along with the turbo, especially if you go with an intercooler as well.

 

Thanks for that, I'll keep that in mind. If I spot another one with a turbo I won't dismiss it straight away, but I still think a Jap engine with a hair dryer would be a better way to go, something like yours!
Terry

Terry there are certainly some quick vw donks as cyco said check this page at aussieveedubbers:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=32337&page=1 (http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=32337&page=1)
some guys are running 9's and even high 8's in beetles, which definitely dont have the aerodynamics that our cars do.

1/4Mile / Driver / Vehicle / Turbo or N/A / Capacity / Date Run / Venue
9.71 / mike64 / 67 Beetle / turbo mech inj / 2800 / 11-03-06 / WSID NSW
9.76 / dangerous / 60 Beetle / 2 x Supercharged / 2827 / 23-01-99 / WIR QLD

Man, that is W-A-Y beyond freaky! I am guessing that they are worked Kombi 2l engines, but even so, 2.8l from a 2l donk is shaving a hell of a lot of meat off it, then sticking TWIN turbos on it? But it obviously works, because there is a stack of them running the 2.8l engines turbo-ed up, so I guess they can't all be going boom. But do they still sound like a VW, even a VW on steroids?   :)
Terry

Dangerous Dave (aka Dave Bulter) is the guy who did the gearbox for my Eureka.
VERY knowledgable guy on all things about VW gearboxs, and a nice guy.
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=82094&page=1
Yet to run it down the quarter, but if nothing else should be fun.
Aiming for the Willowbank Test and Tune night on the 23rd of this month.  See what else I can break.
If anyone wants to come along.............?

Dean
0402 327 383

Gearbox eh? What 'box, ratios, # of gears are you running Dean??

This is the diary of the gearbox build that Dave did for me.  The gear ratio's are down in the middle of the list.  Hope it helps others when their looking at improvements on their box.

March 2010: strip and asses core trans(1968 beetle swingaxle).
Cut off axle nut to remove stripped brake rotor.
Supply two USED axle nuts.(free)
NEW seal for nose cone selector shaft.
NEW nose cone bush outer.
NEW nose cone bush inner.
MACHINE nose cone face flat.
NEW steel thrust plate for under nose cone.
WELD selector shaft end for improved shift quality.(and account for wear...nickel welding rod).
Supply USED intermediate housing to suit later bearing and main shaft.(free)
Supply USED hub for splined later main shaft.(free)
NEW 091(2 lt bus) circlips for later main shaft.
NEW German FAG brand main shaft ball bearing.
NEW Diehl brand synchros where required.
WELD clutch fork arms fully.(originals are only spot welded).
Supply USED clutch fork, arm, and hardware.
Modify,MACHINE late clutch fork (20 mm) hardware to fit Rhino style (16 mm) case.
Supply material and MACHINE special bronze bush for clutch arm conversion.
Supply  12 NEW nuts and hard washers for axle tube flanges.
Supply USED 1.3182 ratio third gear.(old ratio was 1.26).
WELD and MACHINE third and 4th gears, and hub to suit late style main shaft.
Supply USED metal caged needle bearings  for all gears.(old ones are plastic cages and shorter needle bearings).
Supply pinion shims (free) and set crown wheel and pinion pattern, in new case.
NEW ERCO brand chromoly pinion bearing retaining plate.
Supply special wave washers for above.
NEW FAG brand dual taper bearing for pinion.
NEW input shaft seal and gasket set.
Supply USED input shaft (free), and MACHINE for rotary engine (length).
NEW shim for first gear end float.
Supply USED nut for first gear inner bearing race.
MACHINE all gears to control end float.
NEW SKF brand diff ball bearings.
NEW genuine VW diff shim.
NEW Japan wheel bearings.
NEW axle seal kits.
Supply USED steel fork for 1st and 2nd.(original one is weak brass material).
NEW Albins First and Second racing gear set and main shaft. 3.333 ratio for 1st and 2.0769 ratio for second.
NEW RHINO gearbox case.
NEW billet aluminium side covers.
MACHINE side covers to clear Rhino case internal casting.
MACHINE side covers and Rhino case for extra through bolt modification.
Supply long stud and new nuts and washers for above mod.
MACHINE intermediate housing to re-bush shift rail holes.(restores shift quality).
NEW special 15 mm spanner size nuts and washers for side covers(16 x).
Various solvents sealants and consumables.
Total labour and machining time 28 hours.
 
Finished 5th May 2010.





I've got a couple of pics if you need them.

Wow, that's some gearbox. Would still appear to be 4 gears. Have you had it on the road and if so, how does it run?

Here's a vid of a Turbo Bug (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_RCsx63UiI&feature=related). First one I found without music over the engine sound. The design is a tad over the top, but sounds great.

This is what Aaron runs in his VW Bus.  6 speed 20b turbo rotary.  Registered and apprently drives like a dream to the race track.  It was out to have a seal replaced when his boost control popped a diaphram and went to 20+psi too quickly.  Kinda funny but sad.

It will be a bit much for a day out at the drags for the eureka.  Wheelie bars will need to be 20 foot long lol. But it would be nice to try.

Damn, a 20b Turbo in a Kombi, registered!! Man that's a mean ride. Is that a Kombi gearbox Aaron's running?

Yep, it's just a little ol'e 4 speed swingaxle box with some upgrades to handle the future plans for the 12at and a torque bias diff centre to help at the start line.

Drives nice but is very noisy since I have added the neo mounts and 5 bracing setup.  Just add it to the rest of the noises.  lol.

Nar.  It's a porky 6 speed.  A third longer than a normal box due the extra gears for the 5th gear, then the 6th gear.  Very long box.

Porsche 6 speed. Biig dollars, but then so's the 20b. I'm looking for a 5th gear, not really for the power, but a better crusing gear for long trips and on the freeways. Still digging around, though I've been doing less looking of late.

Around town is 3rd gear for me and out of town (100kph) is nice.  5 gears will just make me do more work on the clutch.  Maybe I'm just lazy.

Can you crank up your rear tyre size at all?

I probably could up the rear tyre size, though I'm having trouble sourcing 265/50/14 as it is.

With the 1.8t Scooby motor, I find that it revs it's nuts off when on the freeway. I'd like to be able to step that down a notch and let it 'relax' a bit more.

single plate IRS box will fix the problem cyco

First question.  Why would an IRS box solve the issue?  I know .........dumb question.

Secound question...........Can you go to a 265/60/14?  If they exist?

As you can see I know nothing of boxes or tyres.

Again, Dave Bulter helped me out.  I told him what I wanted and he advised exactly what to do.  He didn't charge a motza to do the work, just reasonable rates.  Now all I have to worry about is things other than the drivetrain breaking.  Like tyres chewing thru the water lines rooted in the wheel well since I've gone to correct lenght shocks and coilovers in the rear.................So much to do before the August Mini-meet in Gympie.

Just a simple swap to a single side plate will do the job? I remember you talking about it last year. At the very least, it will be cheaper than a conversion to something else.

different ratios= lower revs at highway speeds, they are out of later model "L"bugs
Cyco, next time i have the reek out i will take notice at what the revs are and let you know.mine don't rev hard on the highway.
I know when i swapped it over while i had the VW engine it made a huge difference in the revs at highway speed but was a bit dowier on take off,but when i put the subi in every thing was smoother and less revier anyway.
...Darren   

swing axle rear and are low,double plate IRS are a bit better and single plate are better again,but a 5 speed over drive would be even better.(bugga hitler keeping vw's simple)
..Darren

Opps, forgot to tell you my contact details Terry. Check your PMs.

 :)

Hi

I haven"t been on line of late but heres my 50 cents worth (could be worth only .5cents)
First VW Motor
The cylinders are not bored they are replaced with larger units designed for the application (eg bore size and stroke length) the cranks can be bought in replacments strokes of silly sizes to give a swept volume of up to 2.6 after that the case has to be changed for an after market item then i think the swept volume is maxed out at 3.2 (need to check). If we change the case to a Kombi case aftermarket 3.8 is available.A well set up motor with a turbo or two could make up to 650hp. To make this power EFI and the latest heads from the after market would be required (as with a Jap motor) and you should think if you can control that power. To make 650 Hp with a vw based case costs in the order of $10,000-30,000 could be spent and the sound from the pipes will be your favorite from then on.

Second Gearbag
I have gone for a Porsche 901 5 speed I selected this on price and parts availability with my project I plan to have 650 +hp so a lSD and replacment gearsets, centre block are an interest.Using other boxes worked out to be a bit rich (working  on the fact i can do most work myself).
If money was no problem a Porsche G60 would be my choice but wife and kid rules my life.
The single side plate box will put up with a lot of abuse but like most boxes heat build up will kill these very quickly so any up grade I would suggests installing an oil cooler and even the following boxes could use a cooler Kombi,beetle, Porsche or Rino.

Third exhaust systems
An after market syetem will fix the Dak Dak sound an compleate motor rebuild with cam will also but for my thoughts who cares as  I have said over the 15 or so of years of ownership its only a VW 1300 Sir.

Quick VW's
I have worked on some of the quickest and can tell you that a Eureka can be quicker if build from the ground up. Lap times of Eastern Creek by some road registered Beetles makes the Porsche, Mustang and Subaru Clubs hide with embarrassment. And the driver was 15 with shag pile roof lining (orange) One of the days that warms the heart on cold nights when nothing is going right.

Andrew

Hi guys,
           There's no doubt that you can build super strong beetle donks.
Check out the engine of the bug I was working on before the VW Nats. It's a 2.4 in a beetle case worked to the ridiculous. It came first in its class at Wakefield Park on the 'Nats Saturday and second outright on the day.

I drove it a couple of times around my backyard and it was the angriest machine I've driven in years. You could literally feel every cylinder kicking you in the ass.

Something like that in a reek would be more than enough.

     Simon

There are some ridiculously powerfull dakdak motors out there, and streetable.
I've considered going back too air-cooled but you can do more with water cooled if the car already has the piping, radiators, etc. 

Depends were your coming from.

 Hi guys
 I reseached and studied these Hi performance VW motors for a couple of years now
 and have had one built to my specifications 2.4Lt.
 I spoke to Podjoy. Rod Penrose and some Performance Guys in the States.
 botom line is if you go over 100hp. it gets real exspensive thats why you hear alot about doing it
 but nobody seems to be doing it
 If you want to have some fun and get 80 plus thousand kilomiters out of your motor you need to
 start with a VW.super Case and build your way up, its the only way your going to hit that pedle
with confordence and get home in one piece
 Now all the (experts) have thier favourite cranks,heads and so forth but they build for the track
which means they dont expect reliability for too many K's only weakends.
But they all said to me unanamasly that a VW.thats built for over 150HP.is not very plesent to be
 in for a great lenght of time some have said 200HP. is not streetable
wel thats my 5cents spent.   

you can get the vw motor going with absolutely stupid power. if you look at penrose's builds he has just bought a motor from the states with a supposable 1,000+ hp. now yeah forced induction is necessary but imagine the ride in an aluminum shell that gets fired down the 1/4, geez he could run a full mile in the time that most reasonable, not over the top streeters would be doing the 1/4 at, and thats with only a measely 4 cylinder air cooled. check out the pauter site specifically this page-----> http://www.pauter.com/super_pro.htm (http://www.pauter.com/super_pro.htm)

definitely not for the road and i agree with magooster, 200hp at the fly id imagine would be a bit hairy on the road in some spots. thats a 150kw at the fly so about 120kw at the wheels. in a 7-800kg car thats pretty quick. i know the vn v8s came out with 165kw at the fly with a healthy stocker these days running around the 15 mark but that is with an extra 500kg.

Some ones found my motor

More to come ?????????????????

 yah
 Its a interesting site but a word of warning Ive spoken to them in the past
 and the only thing they make that is use able in a VW motor is Roller Rockers
 there Engine Case is a one Piece and there heads and every thing els is not compadible.
 there is some one els in the states making a Roller Cam kit but to me compeared to other
 brands they were to cheap $ and not enough known about them.
 I brought their Rockers 1.4.1 lift because they have won awards with them I also brought
the deep rocker covers (Scat)that screw on but due to the way the rocker arms bolt on to the head
I had to change them for the side clip on ones
If any one is thinking of going this way I sugest ordering at VW unlimited because I got my
rocker arms for $130.00 cheper than bying direct from Peuter wired but true.

Hi

Have spoken to them and am ordering heads for my type 4 from them to fit 108mm bores with stock type 4 bolt patten case (with a 5 stud added).
Was going to order the block and cyclinders but found that rego would present problems (will continue working getting this problem resolved)
Dont think the heads would fit a type 1 motor but i have never asked.
A lot of this type of companys will make a design to your requirments if you are willing to ask and go through the time and effort.

Andrew

You guys have kinda gone off topic here.

Parents brought this to my attention and how the pictures were all broken on the first page, but I see someone has corrected that with a link to the new gallery (father did not see that). I had a rather long chat with the guy back in the day, and basicly took pictures of everything that was wrong with the car. He tried to tell me a whole bunch of bollocks about the car (like the porshe running gear,) but it was all a load of shit.

The engine had nothing blocking the inlets to the throttlebody or turbo so odds are the engine is as rooted as the rest of the car. I told him I'd take it away for $3k, and he'd be very lucky to get $8k for it, but he couldn't drop below what he was asking back then, but he did want a quick sale because he was going to jail in a couple of weeks for speeding, or some other bullshit. Honestly if you're interested in the car take EVERYTHING the guy says (if it is still the same owner) as bullshit and come to your own conclusions.